
Trimatic Problems
#1
_UCaLX_
Posted 05 March 2008 - 12:27 PM
any help would be greatly appreciated. cheers
#2
Posted 05 March 2008 - 12:51 PM
Vacuum lines are all connected and not leaking (The ones from the manifold to the modulator on the Tranny.
And also that your Filter in your Trans isnt clogged up with shit (its about $15-20, for a kit that you can fit yourself and give the box a service)
They are two issues i have had with Trimatics previously that had similar gear changing issues...
#3
_UCaLX_
Posted 05 March 2008 - 03:58 PM
cheers for the advice mate, do you know where i can get that kit.(its about $15-20, for a kit that you can fit yourself and give the box a service)
#4
Posted 05 March 2008 - 07:52 PM
#5
Posted 05 March 2008 - 08:10 PM
Was the vac line to the modulator, was off at the modulator on the back off the trans.
Could also be the fitting on the manifold where the vac line comes out for the modulator, that fitting has a tiny hole in it and it could be blocked with crap.
The kickdown switch is basicaly self adjusting, grab the lever on the side of the switch, give it a good push towards the front of the car this releases it.
When you push the accelerator to the floor is lifts it to the highest possition and that sets it.
Edited by LX2DR, 05 March 2008 - 08:15 PM.
#6
_UCaLX_
Posted 08 March 2008 - 12:51 AM
#7
Posted 23 March 2008 - 10:33 PM
Mine has started doing a similar strange thing

After it has been running for about 20 minutes, for no reason it shifts down to 2nd and will only shift up again if i push into it to go faster, the moment you alow it to cruise again (as you have to at the speed limit) it shifts down again.
The real problem for me is, i recently put a new filter and all seals through it before i fitted it to the hatch.
I have done all the above checks and its still doing it

The next thing i will do is replace the modulator itself.
Its a real pain, this is the 120k tranny i just put in the car and looked perfect when i had it open, so now i'm scratching my head?
Seems like it has to be something sticking as it only does it while hot, although it doesnt make sense why it starts to do it when you are cruising on a flat road?
#8
Posted 23 March 2008 - 10:42 PM
#9
_3point3_
Posted 24 March 2008 - 12:37 AM
#10
_CHOPPER_
Posted 24 March 2008 - 12:56 AM
#11
Posted 24 March 2008 - 09:28 AM
#12
_CHOPPER_
Posted 24 March 2008 - 11:23 AM
#13
Posted 24 March 2008 - 02:23 PM
Maybe they will give a 50% trade-in or 50% discount to finally get them of the roadYes, let's all convert to 4 speed Lenco's.

Also to help put us out of our long suffering misery

Edited by LX2DR, 24 March 2008 - 02:27 PM.
#14
Posted 24 March 2008 - 06:29 PM
#15
_SableMet7/73_
Posted 01 April 2008 - 07:16 PM
lately & I'm flat out (will it ever end)
My old daily VH trimatic does something similar, accelerate to 60 & lift to
cruise & when hot goes back to 2nd. Anything over 80 & is revin its tits off.
I dont do autos & wouldnt own 1 but the old girl cant drive stick.
So gave it to auto tranny shop that does my suby work & he reckoned it
was either a worn piston or a ball check valve both of which are in the valve
body. So I supose it was loosing some fluid pressure.
He changed the fluid & was fine for a while but started again, so I did a fluid
flush & all was good again, for a while.
Anyway after a run of high 30 degree days bloody started again so looked at
tranny coolers, best Auto One could do was $106.00 trade, bugger that so
spent $45.00 on a bottle of Valvoline Older trans fluid & got a tranny cooler
from my wrecker for $20.00, made some brackets up, $5.00 for tranny fluid
hose (yes you need specific hose for tranny fluid) gave it a good flush, it was
a 5lt bottle so got 2 flushes and a fill from it. Been about 2 months now & has recently copped a fair bit of normal use as well as freeway and towing 1.75 ton
but as yet all is good.
I supose keeping the fluid cooler than routing it trough the radiator keeps the fluid more viscous. Cant afford another tranny at the moment so the $70.00 wasnt
too bad to cop.
If all the above hasnt worked might be worth a try
I'll let ya's know if it starts again
Cheers Jono
#16
Posted 01 April 2008 - 08:05 PM
#17
Posted 01 April 2008 - 08:07 PM
Trimatics 101:
All vacuum leaks must be eliminated. This includes the modulator line from the the manifold to the modulator (which must be tight), the inlet manifold must be tight and sealed, (check the rearmost bolts/nut - very important).
Oil level must be right, (warm it up, run through all the gears and check in park with the engine running).
Band must be adjusted correctly - this is a slightly technical job involving removal of the auto sump, band servo housing and correct adjustment of the band itself (up 40 inch pounds and back off four turns for older boxes, five for later emission boxes)
There are a number of areas which can cause low pressure in a trimatic, worn pump bush, worn seals in 2nd, 3rd and reverse clutches, worn reverse clutch plates which fall in the sump and block the oil filter, worn oil pump or worn oil pump seals. Sometimes a 2nd hand good replacement box is a cheaper option.
#18
_SableMet7/73_
Posted 02 April 2008 - 10:11 PM
of the pipes at the radiator where I cut them to reroute to the cooler
which it dosnt.
As I said I dont do autos & wouldnt own 1 by choice & I replaced the
manifold gasket with a GM item before the bloke who I send my auto
work to dropped the pan & carried out a service & adjustment.
All I can say is what he suggested it possibly was, being worn parts
in the valve body & as the parts surfmaster mentioned.
Mine dosnt give me the shits anymore so Im happy.
Jono
#19
Posted 06 April 2008 - 11:15 PM

#20
Posted 11 April 2008 - 07:14 PM
DamnI have fitted a trans cooler, the 1st test drive was long enough for the fault to normally start happening and it didn't do it,
hopefully it will behave till it's next service and will see if the problem can be found and fixed properly.

Rang the local Auto Trans place and booked it in.
Started to tell him what it was doing and he finished telling the rest of the story, knew exactly what was happening

Asked about how much to fix, $140, full service, adjust band and fit a new kickdown solenoid.
Obviously thats what is wrong, he said must still have the original kickdown solenoid as they had a habit of warping.
Even though i now know, what needs to be replaced i will still get him to do the job, it's the right thing to do.
Everybody else can benefit.
I'll keep you informed if it is fixed.
#21
Posted 11 April 2008 - 09:30 PM

Just on the wrong tram

#22
Posted 11 April 2008 - 09:39 PM
YepAhhhhh, so I was on the right track?
![]()
Just on the wrong tram
#23
_SableMet7/73_
Posted 11 April 2008 - 11:46 PM
Gonna be 30 odd degrees Sunday & I'm off
to Wanneroo Park to watch the historics
It normally does it on a drive like that either
just as I'm getting there or heading home so
keep ya posted if it does.
#24
Posted 12 April 2008 - 08:58 AM
You'll need this at Winton anywayI have fitted a trans cooler, the 1st test drive was long enough for the fault to normally start happening and it didn't do it,
hopefully it will behave till it's next service and will see if the problem can be found and fixed properly.

#25
Posted 16 April 2008 - 04:36 PM
The culprit

The problem


The body is warped and gets worse when heated, the fluid starts to pass and down shifts.
Turns out the owner has an LX Torrie sedan that he's building, so i invited him to the site and mentioned the prefered supplier forum, to which he said he would have a look?
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