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Unleaded 202


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#1 _Leakey_

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 09:18 AM

Hi All,

What is involved in converting a '77 202 to unleaded fuel?

Is it re-doing the valve seats only? or is there a great deal
of other mods needed? Catalytic converter etc..

I have been given advice from both sides of the coin.
Including just stick with the additives and keep her stock.

That's actually a big point for me as I really do want
to keep here factory stock.......but is unleaded a smarter
way to go?

- bit of advice and tech' knowledge please!

Cheers, Leakey

#2 ToRunYa

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 09:38 AM

for some reason with 202's some run perfectly fine on unleaded with no hardened valve seats etc, others ping bang and carry on with a sniff of unleaded! i used additives with the sook 202 that carried on and just bunged whatever fuel i could get in the other (didnt try diesel lol). Done a head gasket and pulled it down and found no pitting etc gave it a quick reseat and off she went.
The other guys might have more info as i never really worried about it a great deal, Hardened valve seats are the way to go in the long run, but i havent seen any other damage caused by unleaded. as dumb as it sounds give the EPA a call, wealth of knowledge in that stuff (cat converters etc.)

Edited by TORUNYA, 14 February 2006 - 09:38 AM.


#3 LC69GTR

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 09:46 AM

I last night without thinking put unleaded the high octance one in my torana that has a 138 motor.It ran fine

But i think i am not meant to put it in it but when i was at the esso i was lost did not know what to put as i have not driven one of these cars for about 20yrs and back then there was super.

so what should i put in it?

#4 _Keithy's_UC_

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 12:17 PM

I ran it in my red 202 for 5 years before the motor was removed for a more powerful powerplant! Not a drama at all. I set the timing to 8degrees and away i went!

Keith

#5 FastEHHolden

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 12:34 PM

what will happen in the long run is valve seat recession and bell mouthing of the valve guides....yes it is cheap to just chuck a new head on when the old one wears out but the "proper" way is to put hardened valve seats on the exhaust valve and maybe (not a must do) a change to stainless steel valves. since this is all internal it doesn't alter the appearance like having a Flashlube dispenser in the engine bay.

The pinging won't be a problem as you have heaps of fuels to chose from ranging from 91 up to 100 RON now...if you have a low compression hack and cant afford it use 91...if it pings use better fuel.

You do not have to fit a catalytic converter if you change to unleaded...it didn't come in until 1986...its got an ADR and no torana has that number on its plate.

#6 ToRunYa

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 12:46 PM

^ there ya go :spoton:

#7 _Leakey_

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 12:47 PM

Thanks Guys(and Gal),

FastEh, do you know what sort of dough is involved
in this type of head work? Is it something that can be
bought of the shelf already done and litterally bolted on?

--------

FASTEH - haven't put that trimatic on yet! Man is it clean though,
You wouldnt recognise it!!

--------
I guess I'll stick with additives just for the time being.

- Leakey

#8 FastEHHolden

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 01:00 PM

from my memory of it....it cost me $430 to fit bronze valve guides, Hard valve seats to exhaust and stainless valves to the now dead YT head....this was 8 yrs ago

the valves were $12 ea from Autobarn (EVL), inserts were about the same I think.
The guy at Thornleigh won't do it without doing a pressure test $60 (i think)

you wouldn't have to worry about bronze valve guides

If you want to do a bolt on buy a spare head.

i am going to run a flash lube on this head...incase it cracks again.

#9 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 07:44 PM

I've been quoted $400 to convert a standard Red 6 head. The other things to watch are getting the dissy reco'd and regraphed. The carby may be better if it's jetted to whatever fuel you decide to use. If in doubt, stick the sniffer up the exhaust to see how rich/lean it's running.

#10 Heath

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Posted 14 February 2006 - 09:09 PM

I'd just buy an engine that's been running on LPG with hardened valve seats. For example, I just bought a 186 that was running LPG, has all the work I need done to it and I picked it up for $150, now I've got two stock engines, money left over and plenty of options.

(The reason I say LPG is because anything made to run LPG can run unleaded well, and gas engines are readily availible, and often cheap as I found out)




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