tune ups
#1
Posted 16 February 2006 - 06:34 PM
Is this about right or does he just want to see more business?
s
#2
Posted 16 February 2006 - 07:06 PM
Have a look at an owners manual for your particular vehicle. GMH service intervals in the 70's (disco, oh yeah) were at 10,000 intervals (kms). I am pretty sure we did plugs points and condensor every 10,000 as well.
The GMH services were A,B,C,D with various items needing looking at at each one. If you have a later electronic setup, (no points, unleaded fuel and bigger spark plug gaps) you could go a lot longer between tune-ups. This is also dependant on how you drive the vehicle, (city or country type driving). An older engine will also need more frequent attention due to possibly burning oil).
If you have faith in your automotive technical specialist (mechanic) follow his advice - if you get reliable motoring as a result you are getting reliable advice IMHO.
#3 _CHOPPER_
Posted 16 February 2006 - 07:21 PM
#4
Posted 16 February 2006 - 07:28 PM
For an older car (carb, points ignition), the points are usually past their prime after 10,000kms so they need replacing and the timing reset too.
#5 _CHOPPER_
Posted 16 February 2006 - 07:35 PM
#6 _devilsadvocate_
Posted 16 February 2006 - 08:41 PM
Not so sure about that, wouldnt that mean the oil would have a very restricted shelf life also? One thing that has improved in the last 30years is oil, I only change it once a year in my 3 gas engined UC's, though it feels like overkill when it comes out looking brand new. There is no acid build up like the scare literature for the gas specific oils claims.Oil needs to be changed every six months if you do less than 10,000 KM in six months. This is because the oil breaks down over time.
Certainly in a old petrol motor, oil contamination is a reality then more frequent changing is probably necessary.
#7 _TORANASS_
Posted 16 February 2006 - 09:10 PM
John
#8 _CHOPPER_
Posted 16 February 2006 - 09:17 PM
#9 _devilsadvocate_
Posted 16 February 2006 - 09:21 PM
Exactly......if it is being used. Cant see that the oil is going to break down any more in the sump of a parked car than when its container on the shelf.Oil does brake down over time if in a motor being used.
Chopper: Oil mixing with the air, wont increase its acid content to any damaging effect, its the fuel getting in to the mix that will do that, which as I stated above will happen quite significantly in a worn petrol engine, and one that does only short trips.
Edited by devilsadvocate, 16 February 2006 - 09:31 PM.
#10
Posted 16 February 2006 - 09:31 PM
Use bosch points and condenser, gap points at highest recommended gap.
Adjust timing, mixture and idle.
After a weeks running re-adjust points. Recheck timing.
After 10k check points and timing, Adjust mixture and idle if needed.
Tune should last 20k without parts.
Plug gap increases with use, point gap reduces and alters timing.
Every 20k replace the lot and check your leads with an ohm meter and replace as nessecary.
Been my rule of thumb for ever and never had a drama.
RACV MAN
#11 _gstar_
Posted 16 February 2006 - 10:09 PM
I personally have used this stuff, used it every month or so. for about a year on my old ss. it had those annoying loud tics from the injectors. It never made a difference, so i sought a professional to properly clean them in a ultrasonic bath, and flow tested them. The advice i recieved from him was that a injector cleaner product was useless, and 98 octane fuel would be as effective. I was told the problem lies in dirty deposits in wire gauze in the injectors? not 100% sure about that though. But i can say after the clean it sure made them quieter and the car seemed to go better. i wouldnt use any of these products again.a can of injector cleaner added to the fuel
The shelf life for motor oil is, unopened: 2 to 5 years opened: 3 months
You can never change your engine oil too frequently. The more you do it, the longer the engine will last. The acids chopper talked about are nitrates. i would me more worried about dirt in the oil, no matter how good your air filter is dust and shit will always get in. one other thing i would like to add about oil is switching between mineral and synthetic. dont do it! as the synthetic oil will break down all the tar like sludge built up in the engine, doesn`t apply to new motors. If you are going to switch oils you have to use a flushing oil, 0W20 for half an hour or so to rid it of all the crap first.
#12 _CHOPPER_
Posted 16 February 2006 - 10:14 PM
#13 _gstar_
Posted 16 February 2006 - 10:26 PM
I must add that i am not a professional, and dont go out and use this thin oil without consulting an engine guy.
Edited by gstar, 16 February 2006 - 10:27 PM.
#14
Posted 16 February 2006 - 10:39 PM
RACV MAN
#15 _gstar_
Posted 16 February 2006 - 11:10 PM
sorry im not a scientist either,chopper talked about are nitrates.
*nitric acids*
#16
Posted 17 February 2006 - 08:03 AM
Runs hot <-- needs water
Pings/sluggish <-- do timing
Gets real lumpy <-- new plugs
Runs crapy <-- new filters
Dont go <-- might be an idea to check all these and the battery lol
joking!... i do a service bout every 8 months or so, or when she tells me
#17
Posted 17 February 2006 - 08:32 AM
I have a VL 308 motor with electronic ignition and carby in the Torana.
I change the oil every 5,000 kms or so (the speedo is out so it is probably every 7000). I don't drive it that much so it can be up to a year between oil changes.
I assumed the spark plugs would last longer than 10 000kms (I know in the old days they didn't change them that much just clean them and re-gap them).
I will get the full tune up anyway, it is time for an oil change too.
Yes oil does break down, if you drive your car for less than 20 minutes you get a lot of carbon build up (I think) in the oil that doesn't burn off properly, the more short trips the faster the oil contaminates. I tend to drive for at least half an hour each time.
s
#18 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 17 February 2006 - 08:46 AM
#19 _devilsadvocate_
Posted 17 February 2006 - 10:09 AM
Apart from checking the condition of plugs and leads, distributor cap, rotor and replacing if necessary, there isnt much to do, unless the carby needs attention. If you keep meticulous track of your fuel consumption then you will have an idea if perhaps the carby needs adjusting or not, if consumption doesnt increase, carb should be fine - unless you have some other obvious driveability problems.
Off course there are all the other parts of the car that require servicing, but thats not specifically tune up stuff.
Edited by devilsadvocate, 17 February 2006 - 10:10 AM.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users