hi everyone.
as TORANA owners we all have had, or are having some "technical difficulties" to getting the torrie running right.
right now i got a problem thats getting worse.
symptoms:
* when in neutral/ Park (trimatic) the engine idles fairly normally but occasionally scips a beat, and the car jolts just a fraction.
* when in drive. car has a VERY rough idle car jolts forward.
* whilst driving, it feels like you have a on/off switch as the power, on acceleration, cuts out than re-appears an just keeps doing this very quickly. after 60km/h the problem is much more manigable probably due to the higher revs.
my thought was dirt in the carby (fully reco'd ww stromberg) so i opened it up and used the air compressor to clean all jets etc.
drove it, did help a bit
next day start it and the bastard is 1000000 times worse did the carby again and nothing changed.
i am most intregued as to what the problem is.
any ideas
ps its a mild 202, solid cam, bored 60 thou, ported head, roller rockers with standard trimatic and converter, (could it be the converter?)
help me!!!!
name that problem
Started by
_LX CHAMOIS HATCH_
, Nov 18 2005 04:42 PM
7 replies to this topic
#1 _LX CHAMOIS HATCH_
Posted 18 November 2005 - 04:42 PM
#2 _Flamenco_
Posted 18 November 2005 - 08:24 PM
What type of dissy do you have - points or electronic? As a rough start maybe replace your points (and check your timing), see if your vacuum hose on the trimatic is in good condition and that there's enough fluid in the trimatic... Are your leads & plugs in good condition?
#3 _purpleLC_
Posted 18 November 2005 - 08:42 PM
As mentioned check the electrical side of it first,
points, leads,etc.
As far as carby goes check to see if its not too lean--
this is done by holding the revs up to about 3500 then
SLOWLY closing the choke flap if the revs increase a far bit before
you close it completely (then it will go rough when completely closed).
If it is too lean the carb might need rejetting
Louie.
points, leads,etc.
As far as carby goes check to see if its not too lean--
this is done by holding the revs up to about 3500 then
SLOWLY closing the choke flap if the revs increase a far bit before
you close it completely (then it will go rough when completely closed).
If it is too lean the carb might need rejetting
Louie.
#4 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 18 November 2005 - 08:45 PM
Seeing as you played with the carby, I'd go air leak in the carby, making it run too lean.
Going from my experience, you've tried to re-use your old gaskets. I always live in hope that it is possible, but my car always tells me otherwise. Always use new gaskets.
Going from my experience, you've tried to re-use your old gaskets. I always live in hope that it is possible, but my car always tells me otherwise. Always use new gaskets.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 18 November 2005 - 08:47 PM.
#5 _workinprogress_
Posted 19 November 2005 - 08:59 AM
omg i thought it was just my car that did that. I had exactly the same symptoms in my 202 uc when it used to be automatic.
All my problems seemed to be timing and points related. I went out and picked up a new set of points and condenser and redid the timing at home with a home made test light and upped the idle a touch to around 700 in drive and around 800 in park while it was warm. Didnt complain again.
This may not be your only problem but it worked for me. Btw i found that doing the timing with the static method was a lot easier than using a timing light. If you have the manual for your car then that will tell you how to set the timing this way.
All my problems seemed to be timing and points related. I went out and picked up a new set of points and condenser and redid the timing at home with a home made test light and upped the idle a touch to around 700 in drive and around 800 in park while it was warm. Didnt complain again.
This may not be your only problem but it worked for me. Btw i found that doing the timing with the static method was a lot easier than using a timing light. If you have the manual for your car then that will tell you how to set the timing this way.
#6 _LX CHAMOIS HATCH_
Posted 19 November 2005 - 09:41 AM
thanks for the suggestions people.
the dizzy is a mallaroy twin point, and has just had the points changed with new cap and rotor button. but i'll double check everything again. plugs and leads are brand new as well.
and i used a new gasket when putting the carby back together.
i'll check all your suggestions. so keep them comin
cheers
the dizzy is a mallaroy twin point, and has just had the points changed with new cap and rotor button. but i'll double check everything again. plugs and leads are brand new as well.
and i used a new gasket when putting the carby back together.
i'll check all your suggestions. so keep them comin
cheers
#7 _workinprogress_
Posted 21 November 2005 - 09:01 AM
this is a pretty simple one but it is also a problem that i had.
Do you have your dwell angle correctly set after changing your points?
Do you have your dwell angle correctly set after changing your points?
#8 _Jewboy_
Posted 21 November 2005 - 10:50 PM
Dwell angle and points gap work out to be the same just depends on which one you use to set the points, i personally can't set them with a feeler gauge to save my life (i can get them done roughly but never 100%) and i find it easier to use a dwell meter. The way i set the dual points in my brother's galaxie was to unplug one of the points and set the other one, then plug the first one in and unplug the set one.
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