Hi,
I have a UC Torana Hatch (laugh if you want but its got some balls and i love it) the problem i have is that it overheats and i mean over heats. After 10 -15 mins of driving the needle is at its hotest and you can hear the water boil and when you stop you can see it start to smoke. I know its not a good thing. But it happens on high way drving, town cruising everywhere. It is running a mild 202, yella terra head, stage 3 crow cams, triple SU carbs and some other bits and pieces. It currently has on it a 10 or 12 inch thermo fan on the engine side of the radiator. Please any help you can give i would appreciate. It has a 6 cyl torana radiator in it aswell. Gear box is a M20 4 speed.
Cheers All
Tim (HardleyNormal)
Overheating Engine
Started by
_HardleyNormal_
, Nov 18 2005 06:02 PM
5 replies to this topic
#2
_Flamenco_
_Flamenco_
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Posted 18 November 2005 - 06:11 PM
First thing I'd be doing (if you haven't already) is to get the radiator flushed professionally - taken out and top and bottom tanks removed & the tubes unblocked if necessary. Then if the problem persists you could look at getting an original GMH water pump if your's is aftermarket (with the different impeller). Make sure sure your hoses are not collapsing under heat (radiator hoses etc) and maybe flush the heater core too. Check your timing if it's been awhile.
Edited by Flamenco, 18 November 2005 - 06:13 PM.
#3
Tiny
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Posted 18 November 2005 - 07:31 PM
I agree with ^,
It sounds like its gotten beyond a simple problem. Take it to a professional place and be prepared to spend some money to get it all sorted out propperly!
Do it before you fry it again, if it gets hot enough to steam then your doing some serious damage!
It sounds like its gotten beyond a simple problem. Take it to a professional place and be prepared to spend some money to get it all sorted out propperly!
Do it before you fry it again, if it gets hot enough to steam then your doing some serious damage!
#4
_lonemonaro_
_lonemonaro_
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Posted 18 November 2005 - 11:36 PM
Hi,
I am not sure of the radiator hose configuration of a UC Torana, but it may be basically the same as most cars.
I would check your bottom radiator hose first, before going into any great expense. You may find that your bottom hose is constricting under acceleration, caused by the collapse of the inner spring. The spring is in there to keep the radiator pipe on an angle without being squashed.
Pop the bonnet, turn motor on and place gearbox into neutral/park if automatic or out of gear for manual. Remember to engage handbrake.
Give your motor a good rev, and watch the bottom radiator hose to see if it constricts under high rev's. That is a sure sign that the spring inside of it has collapsed.
Have you checked your Thermostat, as the spring might be jammed with crud.
Failing all of this, you may need to have the radiator and block reversed flushed.
Kind regards
George
I am not sure of the radiator hose configuration of a UC Torana, but it may be basically the same as most cars.
I would check your bottom radiator hose first, before going into any great expense. You may find that your bottom hose is constricting under acceleration, caused by the collapse of the inner spring. The spring is in there to keep the radiator pipe on an angle without being squashed.
Pop the bonnet, turn motor on and place gearbox into neutral/park if automatic or out of gear for manual. Remember to engage handbrake.
Give your motor a good rev, and watch the bottom radiator hose to see if it constricts under high rev's. That is a sure sign that the spring inside of it has collapsed.
Have you checked your Thermostat, as the spring might be jammed with crud.
Failing all of this, you may need to have the radiator and block reversed flushed.
Kind regards
George
#5
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 18 November 2005 - 11:54 PM
There are various checks you can do, without specialist equipment to eliminate possible sources of the prob without having to go the costly route of replacing everything.
When it is hot, compare the temp of the top and bottom rad hose, a competent rad shop should be using a IR temp sensor to get readings here. If the bottom hose is noticeably cooler, there is a circulation problem which can be caused by:
1. Blocked rad
2. Blocked coolant passages in block
3. Faulty thermostat
4. Defective water pump
5. Collapsed hoses, which should be easy to verify.
If both hoses feel very hot, then the prob is too much heat getting into the coolant and/or not enough being rejected at the radiator:
6. Engine tuning
7. Cylinder/coolant head gasket leak(bubbles in coolant/and/or water in oil-sometimes harder to detect)
8. Ineffective fin/tube contact in rad(fins corroded away)
9. Restricted airflow through rad.
If the prob is circulation then the following is fairly straightforward to do:
Loosen the bottom hose to rad clamp, remove rad cap(when cold enough) and pull hose completely away from rad. Observe the flow of water out both the radiator and the hose from the engine. It should be a quick flow out of both and be completely cease within a couple of seconds. If not possible blockage in these items. If a blockage doesnt appear evident then its down to the thermostat or water pump. Deciding which here is trickier. Hot hoses going to and from the heater suggest perhaps the water pump is going okay, but not foolproof. Is best perhaps to remove the thermostat at this stage and inspect it, and check that it opens fully (place in a saucepan of water and heat to near boiling). If thermostat appears okay, then it only leaves the pump. With the rad cap off, it should be possible to see a considerable flow of water going over the tubes when the motor is revved and the level should rise slightly when this is done too.
Hope this is of help.
When it is hot, compare the temp of the top and bottom rad hose, a competent rad shop should be using a IR temp sensor to get readings here. If the bottom hose is noticeably cooler, there is a circulation problem which can be caused by:
1. Blocked rad
2. Blocked coolant passages in block
3. Faulty thermostat
4. Defective water pump
5. Collapsed hoses, which should be easy to verify.
If both hoses feel very hot, then the prob is too much heat getting into the coolant and/or not enough being rejected at the radiator:
6. Engine tuning
7. Cylinder/coolant head gasket leak(bubbles in coolant/and/or water in oil-sometimes harder to detect)
8. Ineffective fin/tube contact in rad(fins corroded away)
9. Restricted airflow through rad.
If the prob is circulation then the following is fairly straightforward to do:
Loosen the bottom hose to rad clamp, remove rad cap(when cold enough) and pull hose completely away from rad. Observe the flow of water out both the radiator and the hose from the engine. It should be a quick flow out of both and be completely cease within a couple of seconds. If not possible blockage in these items. If a blockage doesnt appear evident then its down to the thermostat or water pump. Deciding which here is trickier. Hot hoses going to and from the heater suggest perhaps the water pump is going okay, but not foolproof. Is best perhaps to remove the thermostat at this stage and inspect it, and check that it opens fully (place in a saucepan of water and heat to near boiling). If thermostat appears okay, then it only leaves the pump. With the rad cap off, it should be possible to see a considerable flow of water going over the tubes when the motor is revved and the level should rise slightly when this is done too.
Hope this is of help.
#6
_HardleyNormal_
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Posted 19 November 2005 - 11:18 AM
Hi All.
Thanks for the advice on the topic guys. However it is currently at southside Radiaotr service being checked. I have a new 3core performance radiator being fitted into it with a bull flush out and whatever else that they do. Also purchasing a new pull rad fan to suit. So we will see how this goes and hope for the best. The car is currently cruising between ipswich goodna and oxley if any are interested in having a look at it. but it does drive everywhere i go. such as cleveland sth brisbane this weekend and capalabe Sunday fingers crossed with the heat issue of cause.
Once again Thanks Guys.
Tim
Thanks for the advice on the topic guys. However it is currently at southside Radiaotr service being checked. I have a new 3core performance radiator being fitted into it with a bull flush out and whatever else that they do. Also purchasing a new pull rad fan to suit. So we will see how this goes and hope for the best. The car is currently cruising between ipswich goodna and oxley if any are interested in having a look at it. but it does drive everywhere i go. such as cleveland sth brisbane this weekend and capalabe Sunday fingers crossed with the heat issue of cause.
Once again Thanks Guys.
Tim
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