G'day all, haven't been on for a while, but do have a few questions that hopefully someone can answer.
Recently, a friend of mine bought what we think is an origi LX SS Hatch, but there seems to be some confusion as to the ADR plate and VIN Numbers...??
Here are the numbers :
ADR Plate : -12-77 CLXO 59589M
VIN : - 8D77RH J599387X
Model : - LX8VD77
Body No. : - 599387M
Eng : L32 Trans: M20 RRaxle : GU4.
Now, our concern was the Chassis No. CLXO?? Does this need to correspond with any other number on anu other plate ?? We did run a check with VicRoads, but they informed us that the last hit on this car was in NSW. Further to this, the CLXO chassis number came up as a yellow car, but the paint code shows Valenci Orange.
Guys, if you could shed some light on this, it would be much appreciated.
Cheers.
VIN/Chassis Numbers?
Started by
noshead
, Jun 29 2008 10:39 AM
15 replies to this topic
#2
Toranavista
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Posted 29 June 2008 - 10:50 AM
The chassis number stamped in the rail needs to match the number on the ADR tag on drivers side. CLX is the ADR revision for that chassis. Would correspond with the date you have given. There were chassis with ALX, BLX, CLX and DLX.
Edited by Toranavista, 29 June 2008 - 10:51 AM.
#3
_mason-08_
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Posted 29 December 2008 - 10:28 PM
The chassis number stamped in the rail needs to match the number on the ADR tag on drivers side. CLX is the ADR revision for that chassis. Would correspond with the date you have given. There were chassis with ALX, BLX, CLX and DLX.
whats the difference between alx blx etc.
Scott
#4
_JBM_
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Posted 30 December 2008 - 10:47 AM
The differences to the chassis numbers indicate ADR upgrades from the previous chassis, the series of numbers on the ADR plate show which ADRs are applicable to your chassis.
With the paint it could have been resprayed at anytime, some people think that yellow is a more popular colour, post the paint codes or look them up here.
James
With the paint it could have been resprayed at anytime, some people think that yellow is a more popular colour, post the paint codes or look them up here.
James
#5
_The Stig_
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Posted 01 January 2009 - 07:59 AM
The chassis number stamped in the rail needs to match the number on the ADR tag on drivers side. CLX is the ADR revision for that chassis. Would correspond with the date you have given. There were chassis with ALX, BLX, CLX and DLX.
Not trying to hijack the thread, but how would you go if the chassis rail has been replaced, for accident repairs? There must be plenty around that have been front ended. Would stamping the chassis number of the car, onto a donor car's rail be considered rebirthing? Has anyone done this? (If they want to admit it!)
#6
rodomo
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Posted 01 January 2009 - 08:21 AM
Yes, I reckon a fair bit of this used to go on and was industry acceptable.
It wasn't that long ago that cutting and shutting cars was legal.
The laws changed to keep dodgey repairs and rebirths at bay.
A mate bought a SLR5000 that was cut and shut. He was gutted when he found out.
It wasn't that long ago that cutting and shutting cars was legal.
The laws changed to keep dodgey repairs and rebirths at bay.
A mate bought a SLR5000 that was cut and shut. He was gutted when he found out.
#7
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Posted 01 January 2009 - 11:44 AM
stig,
this practice is still reasonably widely used in the industry but, most repairs are done using factory seams/joins where possible but not always practical so is where the cut and shut comes into play... mainly4 encouraged by insurance companies and the like in the early days to cut repair costs but is/was used alot by back yarders and chop shops out to make a quick buck etc...
micko
this practice is still reasonably widely used in the industry but, most repairs are done using factory seams/joins where possible but not always practical so is where the cut and shut comes into play... mainly4 encouraged by insurance companies and the like in the early days to cut repair costs but is/was used alot by back yarders and chop shops out to make a quick buck etc...
micko
#8
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Posted 02 January 2009 - 04:28 PM
stig,
this practice is still reasonably widely used in the industry but, most repairs are done using factory seams/joins where possible but not always practical so is where the cut and shut comes into play... mainly4 encouraged by insurance companies and the like in the early days to cut repair costs but is/was used alot by back yarders and chop shops out to make a quick buck etc...
micko
Thanks for the info - I'll put the question another way though - if you had a car that had already been repaired, with a chassis rail out of a donor car, and as a result the numbers no longer matched the build/compliance plate, and the car was ready to be inspected for rego, apart from the one technicality of the non matching numbers - you knew the plates on the car was genuine, and the car was not stolen (Been in the family for 20 plus years, unregistered), would you consider altering the chassis number to reflect the numbers on the plate as being dodgey/illegal/unethical, if you knew there was a strong possibility the car would be rejected for registration because of the non-matching numbers? (This is purely a hypothetical question, of course...)
#9
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Posted 03 January 2009 - 04:41 AM
what you are talking about is done day in day out as part of normal duties carried out by licensed smash repairers however it is frowned heavily upon by the constabulary but i have always put it to them like this... if i am repairing say a 2008 model VZ and i can get a "cut" cheaper from say a 1997 VT i would normally put the plates back on that belong to the vehicle simply because the owner of the vehicle being repaired would not be very happy having their car backdated 11 odd years for example... they have given us curry for many many years for carrying out these practices but in the end common sense usually prevails... i have a few cars with no id plates whatsoever and the police have issued them with their own serial numbers for various reasons... usually ones they make up on the day it seems...
#11
_lx-304_
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Posted 03 January 2009 - 08:30 AM
even if you did restamp your number,anyone with half a brain will be able to tell anyway.
#12
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Posted 03 January 2009 - 04:24 PM
even if you did restamp your number,anyone with half a brain will be able to tell anyway.
this is somewhat true however, as the general aim is normally to make a repaired vehicle look like it has never been repaired we are not out to decieve anyone... just to make their car the way it was before the crash etc... if the need arose on a collectable type vehicle the original factory numbers would be retained and fitted back into the donor part... for example say a passengers side skirt of an xu1 was damaged and needed to be replaced... the number would be cut out of the original and fitted into the donor part... this is totally legal and in my opinion should always be done on any car...
#13
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Posted 03 January 2009 - 06:55 PM
in the case of the torana,restamping isnt that easy,you would have to find the right set of punches(both letters and numbers,you would need to make the old one disappear and you would need to stamp it all out of wack.when it came to sell the vehicle anyone with a keen eye will see that the panel has already been replaced and the first thing they will look at is the chassis number.i think past rego papers with the original numbers would be better than any story as to why the chassis number has been redone.plus it is illegal.if you sell to someone who has all soughts of test done to make sure it hasnt been redone,there would be big trouble when they see it has been.
dave
dave
#14
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Posted 03 January 2009 - 11:55 PM
in the case of the torana,restamping isnt that easy,you would have to find the right set of punches(both letters and numbers,you would need to make the old one disappear and you would need to stamp it all out of wack.when it came to sell the vehicle anyone with a keen eye will see that the panel has already been replaced and the first thing they will look at is the chassis number.i think past rego papers with the original numbers would be better than any story as to why the chassis number has been redone.plus it is illegal.if you sell to someone who has all soughts of test done to make sure it hasnt been redone,there would be big trouble when they see it has been.
dave
this is true with an LC/LJ because of the size/style of the numbers etc... but from memory the LH/LX/UC's are just 6 or 8mm alphanumeric on the top of the drivers side rail near the rad support... many many of which have been crashed and re-done...
micko
#15
fuzzypumper
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Posted 05 January 2009 - 07:39 PM
I'm much in the same boat as NOSHEAD with my LH SLR 4.2.
This car was originally from NSW/ACT and did have a left Hand front repair at some stage which meant the chassis rail that had the Number was replaced.
But in my case the repairer had ground the doners chasis No. off and had the NSW RTA stamp a new number in the format of NXXXXXXP on
the Left hand rail and was registered in NSW.
Now the car is in Victoria, I would like to get the original chasis number stamped back on the chasis to match the ADR plate, mainly to retain some value
by rematching the numbers.
However I dont know how much luck I am going to have with that or whether the VIC RTA will stamp there own number again.
This car was originally from NSW/ACT and did have a left Hand front repair at some stage which meant the chassis rail that had the Number was replaced.
But in my case the repairer had ground the doners chasis No. off and had the NSW RTA stamp a new number in the format of NXXXXXXP on
the Left hand rail and was registered in NSW.
Now the car is in Victoria, I would like to get the original chasis number stamped back on the chasis to match the ADR plate, mainly to retain some value
by rematching the numbers.
However I dont know how much luck I am going to have with that or whether the VIC RTA will stamp there own number again.
#16
hainzy
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Posted 05 January 2009 - 09:34 PM
I'm much in the same boat as NOSHEAD with my LH SLR 4.2.
This car was originally from NSW/ACT and did have a left Hand front repair at some stage which meant the chassis rail that had the Number was replaced.
But in my case the repairer had ground the doners chasis No. off and had the NSW RTA stamp a new number in the format of NXXXXXXP on
the Left hand rail and was registered in NSW.
Now the car is in Victoria, I would like to get the original chasis number stamped back on the chasis to match the ADR plate, mainly to retain some value
by rematching the numbers.
However I dont know how much luck I am going to have with that or whether the VIC RTA will stamp there own number again.
I also have a kind of similar problem. My LX has had a new number stamped in which is a police number V#####P but I cant for the life of me read it. Its clear on the rego sticker but the bozo who stamped it did a hatchet job. Im wondering if I should get ir re-re-stamped.... You can see here where its in a different spot. Both numbers are pretty much illegible.
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