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Air Filters

Started by LOWS2 , Feb 22 2006 10:41 AM

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#1 LOWS2

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Posted 22 February 2006 - 10:41 AM

Hey guys,

I am looking at tidying up the engine bay of my '72 LJ and was thinking a new chrome air filter to replace the standard Holden one on top of my Red 173 (completely stock) might be a good start but have no clue what to go for. All I know is that the carby is the standard Holden 1bbl (Stromberg??? :blink: ). Any help is much appriciated.

Cheers,
Mick

#2 Heath

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Posted 22 February 2006 - 10:52 AM

I picked one up off eBay, brand new... I think I paid ~$30 incl. postage - with an element. Looks good, and if you want to you can stick a K&N Style element in there etc (like on Keith's UC's 179... looks a treat)

If it says "suit standard red six" then it'll probably fit, or send them a message asking whether it will suit your standard single-barrel Stromberg. Not sure about LC/LJ, but I had suprisingly little clearance between the chrome housing and the bonnet, even with the filter that came with it... I wouldn't want to go any shorter than that filter too.

Posted Image

PS I can measure the width of the barrel on my Stromberg if you'd like. Mine isn't the original carb, it's slightly smaller, from a HQ that the engine came out of. I imagine the diameter of the barrel at the top is still the same however.

Edited by Heath, 22 February 2006 - 10:57 AM.

#3 LOWS2

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Posted 22 February 2006 - 12:09 PM

Cheers Heath, Sounds like a painless exercise I will have a look on Ebay this arvo. :D

Thanks again, should be right to measure mine when I get home from work.

#4 _Keithy's_UC_

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Posted 24 February 2006 - 01:47 AM

He he, cheer heath for the mention :)!! If your not about spending some money, just get yourself a chrome jobbie from Autobarn or a performance parts store! They only cost about $20 to $30 there anyway and saves the postage hassels of ebay!

My K&N filter and the chrome element cost $140, this is because they want to make their money - i wouldnt imagine making a K&N filter would cost that much, but the chrome element cover is genuine metal, not plastic with chrome paint!! If you want to save money in the long run - get a K&N filter as they are re-usable and flow better than any standard paper filter ever would!

Keith

#5 _73LJWhiteSL_

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Posted 24 February 2006 - 10:05 AM

I did a custom job with my air cleaner on the LJ when i was running on PULP.

I got an orginal air cleaner, pulled the 'silencer' off and stuck the top in a Lathe and remove the whole side of it. I sand blasted it at dads work and then resprayed it Gloss Black. Then I purchased a UniFilter Element and stuck that in.

Result

Posted Image

Total Cost about $15 for the air cleaner, $10 for paint, about $50 for the element.

Steve

#6 LOWS2

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Posted 24 February 2006 - 03:44 PM

Cheers guys I am heading to American Autos at Beverley Hills 2moz morning so I will just buy one from there along with some other assorted goodies I have ordered in...hehe :D

- Mick

#7 rodomo

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Posted 24 February 2006 - 03:57 PM

This is the set up from boy's UC hatch.

Posted Image

It is all standard holden using a "Starfire" 4 cyl aircleaner. Note the big snout. (Bigger than V8) It uses an original element.
I also got the boot and duct for the air cleaner to fit later (this will mean extending the breather from the top of the rocker cover) and run them around the battery to behind the radiator support for cold air induction. I have also got the hot air duct connected and working for cold starting.

Air cleaner and ducts $27 from pick a part
Element $7.22 from bursons

Not as smart looking as chrome but more practical and more effective than full open A/C I hope.

RACV MAN

#8 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 25 February 2006 - 12:27 PM

interesting, there is obviously a reason why manufacturers put the snout on their aircleaners, is it for colder air induction or some other reason? Would going to a open type air filter be a backward step?

#9 J-Rod

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Posted 25 February 2006 - 12:36 PM

does the snout and enclosed filter work to silence the induction noise?

#10 rodomo

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Posted 25 February 2006 - 12:40 PM

You have nailed it.
What other reason?
Induction noise is in front or the driver and moves backward as you drive similar to exhaust noise. With the star fire A/C they included the cold induction to out perform the Coronas with the same engine. The enclusion of the ducting not only improved performance but but muffled it as well with the duct length.
Remember cars a built for drivability (including noise) rather than performance for the average punter.

RACV MAN

Edited by rodomo, 25 February 2006 - 12:46 PM.

#11 rodomo

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Posted 25 February 2006 - 12:52 PM

"Would going to a open type air filter be a backward step?"

I read somewhere and if you think about it I would reckon they were right. That A the induction air would not be as cool as air coming from the direction of a standard snout (any model) and B an open A/C can cause a reverse venturi effect as the air can pass over the airhorn and travel out the back of the A/C. The ideal situation being to pressurise the A/C box marginaly.

RACV MAN

Edited by rodomo, 25 February 2006 - 12:58 PM.

#12 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 25 February 2006 - 04:01 PM

Rodomo: are you able to post a pic of the ducting that would fit on the end of that snorkel, interested to see how one could snake it round the battery and through the gap near the headlight.
The snorkel you have is off a 4 cylinder commodore?

#13 rodomo

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Posted 25 February 2006 - 05:27 PM

I haven't tried these ducts under the bonnet yet but I would have to lengthen the breather pipe from the rocker cover to turn the lid of the aircleaner to either go behind the battery or straight forward along the chassis rail and beside the radiator as fitted on the commodores. These were fitted to VH starfire and I believe 2850 as well. The round end of the flexible duct is 2 1/2" and the plastic duct is approx 2 1/2" x 3 1/2" opening up to 2 1/2" x 6 1/4" at the radiator end. On the comms. the plastic duct sits down on top of the rail and as the torana's rail is higher may be sustituted for PVC.

Posted Image

RACV MAN

#14 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 26 February 2006 - 06:32 AM

Thanks for the pic Rodomo....at least if I go looking for one, Ill know what it looks like. I may need to move my battery to the other side if Im going to get something like that to fit.....also have all the aircon hoses and receiver/dryer tucked in there.
There was an article in a australian mag about finding the right spot to put the intake for the induction......apparently just sticking it anywere at the front of the car could be worse than doing nothing.......areas of minimum and maximum pressure can build up even at the front is the reason given. Has anyone got this article or know how to find these spots without needing sophisticated equipment to measure the pressure?

#15 enderwigginau

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Posted 27 February 2006 - 01:11 PM

If you put it thru the side of the radiator support panel (the angled part next to the radiator) the air is rushing into the radiator so a high pressure zone should be forming in front of there, and the low pressure against the panel due to the lip of the nosecone should create suction..........

Behind the headlight, eg most std cars, does nothing due to the convoluted air, and a pod filter screws up the flow.
Hence every Street Commonwhore reader who puts a pod on or out thru the radiator support.........

Grant..
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