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Headlight Fuse Blowing


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#26 _SS Hatchback_

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Posted 07 August 2008 - 11:08 PM

The park lights are in the headlights, he says it blows a fuse as soon as he turns the park lights on. If however they are disconnected and still blowing a fuse when he turns them on, then in that case it won't help. It's got to be something simple, all the theorys and laws are really going a bit far for this. BTW, welcome back DEVILSADVOCATE AKA TORBIRDIE.


couldnt agree more with the theory guys , a little too much for someone asking for help , disconnect all with the circuit and im afraid just start searching the wiring loom .

#27 ollie

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 12:05 AM

Hey pete,
You free this weekend, i'll come round and have a look see and possibly a beer see,

#28 Dangerous

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 03:51 PM

Just a few clarifications on laws, impedances & frequencies.

Torbirdy, it's Ohm's law that applies for a single path circuit such as a wire with one or two fuses in it. Kirchoff's laws apply for multiple path circuits, and are used to calculate the distribution of current around the various paths of the circuit.

Chris M - Impedance as it applies to AC circuits is proportional to frequency, but that doesn't have anything to do with this fault. It's a DC circuit. It was mentioned that when the fuse is put in or the switch is turned on, that's equivalent to a really high frequency. That's not really the case. Yes, there's an inrush current, which goes from zero up to its maximum in a very short time, but it's not AC - It doesn't cross over polarity at all. The inrush current is limited by the battery internal resistance, wiring resistance, switch and fuse resistance and the end load resistance, but I doubt inductance of any of the components would be a factor at all, unless we're talking about the ignition coil.

Anyway, back to the point - this will be interesting to find out what it actually is. Peter UC, one thing I forgot to mention was to check the number plate light assembly. They are almost perfectly designed to fill up with water and corrode the two globe contacts together if the assembly leaks, or if the lense is broken.

Oh, and if TB = DA, howdy and welcome back.

#29 Dangerous

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 03:54 PM

Just a few clarifications on laws, impedances & frequencies.

Torbirdy, it's Ohm's law that applies for a single path circuit such as a wire with one or two fuses in it. Kirchoff's laws apply for multiple path circuits, and are used to calculate the distribution of current around the various paths of the circuit.

Chris M - Impedance as it applies to AC circuits is proportional to frequency, but that doesn't have anything to do with this fault. It's a DC circuit. It was mentioned that when the fuse is put in or the switch is turned on, that's equivalent to a really high frequency. That's not really the case. Yes, there's an inrush current, which goes from zero up to its maximum in a very short time, but it's not AC - It doesn't cross over polarity at all. The inrush current is limited by the battery internal resistance, wiring resistance, switch and fuse resistance and the end load resistance, but I doubt inductance of any of the components would be a factor at all, unless we're talking about the ignition coil.

Anyway, back to the point - this will be interesting to find out what it actually is. Peter UC, one thing I forgot to mention was to check the number plate light assembly. They are almost perfectly designed to fill up with water and corrode the two globe contacts together if the assembly leaks, or if the lense is broken.

Oh, and if TB = DA, howdy and welcome back.

#30 Peter UC

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 05:27 PM

Ollie I at home all weekend come over whenever.
Dangerous thanks for the tip of the globe in the fuse box that will help enormously. BTW it's not the taillights as they are disconnected.
I will be attacking this problem tomorrow, I let you know what the outcome is.

#31 _Chris M_

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 08:36 PM

Chris M - Impedance as it applies to AC circuits is proportional to frequency, but that doesn't have anything to do with this fault. It's a DC circuit. It was mentioned that when the fuse is put in or the switch is turned on, that's equivalent to a really high frequency. That's not really the case. Yes, there's an inrush current, which goes from zero up to its maximum in a very short time, but it's not AC - It doesn't cross over polarity at all. The inrush current is limited by the battery internal resistance, wiring resistance, switch and fuse resistance and the end load resistance, but I doubt inductance of any of the components would be a factor at all, unless we're talking about the ignition coil.


Gday Dangerous. In brief, I not trying to be a smartass, :D I was trying to give a reason for rodomo's statement, cause he seems to know what he's on about. Good explanation above, except inductive reactance reactance also occurs for short intervals when direct currect is changing as it approaches or departs from steady flow (e.g., when switches are closed or opened) I can send you the calcs if you want. This is a great forum, I'm not trying to cause any grief. I'll butt out now.

Oh yeah, Peter UC, good luck with your problem, I want to know what it is... :D

#32 _SS Hatchback_

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 10:52 PM

Im wondering if this is going to put anyone off from asking why there right blinker no longer works :)

Edited by SS Hatchback, 08 August 2008 - 10:52 PM.


#33 antelopeslr5000

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 11:04 PM

Im wondering if this is going to put anyone off from asking why there right blinker no longer works :)


lol... :D

#34 Dangerous

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 10:56 AM

Im wondering if this is going to put anyone off from asking why there right blinker no longer works :)


That's usually due to a disruption in the balance of orgone enrgy in the steering column after a wheel alignment has been done, and the wheel is slightly off centre......... :tease: :<_<:

#35 Peter UC

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 12:15 PM

Alright I've had some progress. I put the test light across the fuse and this is what I found;
The light glows brightest (ie when the fuse would blow) when the parkers are on and the door is open (ie when the interior light should be on)
As I have the taillights disconnected, the wires that go up to the interior light are also disconnected. Also the short occurs when only when the parkers are on and when either door is open. I tried to find a short between the parker or taillight wires and the interior light switch wires but to no avail.
I don't understand why I have a short when the parkers are on and the door is open I didn't think they were connected.
And just to clarify, the light on the test light was not on when only the parkers were on or only the door was open and again I tried both switches but with the same result.

#36 antelopeslr5000

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 02:22 PM

What happens when your parkers are on AND you use the headlight switch to turn on the interior light (rather than opening either of the doors)?

#37 Peter UC

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 02:40 PM

Nothing, works as normal so it's something with the door switches

#38 antelopeslr5000

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 03:26 PM

Sounds like it to me from what you have described.

Try disconnecting the harness from the headlight switch and at the lighting harness connector also. Grab a multimeter and with your doors closed check for continuity at the headlight connector between you park lamp wire (purple) and your door switch earthing wire (white). If you have continuity, then you have found your problem.

Edited by antelopeslr5000, 09 August 2008 - 03:27 PM.


#39 Peter UC

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 05:06 PM

I've compared the wiring to the UC and the location of the white door switches are different. The LX has it located on the front left on the headlight switch and the UC has it on the front right. Is the LX supposed to be like the UC? I find this strange as I don't remember touching this wiring and it worked fine before the rebuild.

#40 Peter UC

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 05:54 PM

Answered my own question. Yes the door switch is supposed to be the same as the UC. The terminal the door switch was located on is connected to the parker terminal, hence when the door was open and the parkers on there was an instant short. The wire must have come out of the plug at some stage and I put it in the wrong spot.
So problem solved. Thank you everyone for your assistance
Peter

#41 _SS Hatchback_

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 06:49 PM

That's usually due to a disruption in the balance of orgone enrgy in the steering column after a wheel alignment has been done, and the wheel is slightly off centre......... :tease: :<_<:


Oh ok i thought it may have been when you turn the steering to the right then suddenly turning to the left causes back emf and thus generating 1.1 gigawatts causing the fuse to blow, silly me :)

BTW good news Pete , glad you found the problem

#42 Peter UC

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 07:58 PM

Just another question, in my haste to find the fuse problem I forgot to label the wires off the headlight relay. Can someone tell me which wire goes where?
Numbers are 56, 15, 56a, 56b, 31b
Wire colours are white (highbeam switch), Blue (power low beam switch), pink (pollution), green and orange.
Thanks Peter

#43 rodomo

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 10:37 PM

This might help? :huh:
(But I could be wrong)
http://www.type2.com...ifi/bosterm.htm

#44 REDA9X

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Posted 10 August 2008 - 12:42 PM

Posted Image

THIS HELP?

#45 _SS Hatchback_

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Posted 10 August 2008 - 04:39 PM

Posted Image

THIS HELP?

Doesnt get any better than that :clap:

#46 Peter UC

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Posted 10 August 2008 - 06:51 PM

Thanks everyone all sorted. :spoton:

#47 _Chris M_

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Posted 10 August 2008 - 07:32 PM

Glad you fixed it :D


Now where can I get some more orgone enery? This has worn me out :P

That's usually due to a disruption in the balance of orgone enrgy



#48 Dangerous

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Posted 11 August 2008 - 11:24 AM

Good stuff that you found it :spoton:




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