KBS is better than POR15 and cheaper.
http://www.kbs-coatingswa.com.au/
I have a CRS chassis kit on my hatch if you want more pictures.
1UZ into LH/LX
Started by
_Sprog_
, Aug 03 2008 04:24 PM
231 replies to this topic
#76
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 05 February 2009 - 09:08 PM
#77
_Sprog_
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Posted 04 March 2009 - 07:02 PM
Im getting close to buying an ecu.
Im thinking a Motec M800 or Autronic sm4 kit from Bullet (http://www.bulletcar...ine-management/)
The Autronic kit looks good as it comes with everything ready to run, but im not sure about a company whos website has been down for more than 12 months. I'm leaning toward the M800 because it is top of the line gear, with every option under the sun, but they are a bit expensive.
Anyone had any experiance with either, or other sugestions?
Im thinking a Motec M800 or Autronic sm4 kit from Bullet (http://www.bulletcar...ine-management/)
The Autronic kit looks good as it comes with everything ready to run, but im not sure about a company whos website has been down for more than 12 months. I'm leaning toward the M800 because it is top of the line gear, with every option under the sun, but they are a bit expensive.
Anyone had any experiance with either, or other sugestions?
Edited by Sprog, 04 March 2009 - 07:03 PM.
#78
_doogs_
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Posted 04 March 2009 - 08:51 PM
Great work mate, keep at it.
I especially like the job you have done on the pipes, very nice.
I especially like the job you have done on the pipes, very nice.
#79
_2DR_
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Posted 04 March 2009 - 09:23 PM
hey sprog good progress mate looking forward to the finish line .
if you get a chance can you post up or pm me the dimensions of the motor as close as possible as im looking for options engine wise for the lc .
cheers keep up the good work .
2dr
if you get a chance can you post up or pm me the dimensions of the motor as close as possible as im looking for options engine wise for the lc .
cheers keep up the good work .
2dr
#80
_conceptss_
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Posted 04 March 2009 - 11:45 PM
Im getting close to buying an ecu.
Im thinking a Motec M800 or Autronic sm4 kit from Bullet (http://www.bulletcar...ine-management/)
The Autronic kit looks good as it comes with everything ready to run, but im not sure about a company whos website has been down for more than 12 months. I'm leaning toward the M800 because it is top of the line gear, with every option under the sun, but they are a bit expensive.
Anyone had any experiance with either, or other sugestions?
Theres plenty of advice on LEXTREME.COM and also V-EIGHT. JUSTEN8 AUTRONIC adn a guy with a 1UZ Supra will give you the heads up.
One member has done a TT into a purple hz ute Quite sure you'llnever get the driveability as good as the OEM ecu. There are piggy backs and even mods can be done to the oem ecu for almost any application. What turbos are you running and where - High or low mount??
#81
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Posted 05 March 2009 - 12:12 AM
hey sprog good progress mate looking forward to the finish line .
if you get a chance can you post up or pm me the dimensions of the motor as close as possible as im looking for options engine wise for the lc .
cheers keep up the good work .
2dr
It fits but dependant on power steering pulley position. There was a bloke that fitted one to a metallic LJ and had it engineered in VIC but changed the ECU to a HALTECH (old after market ecu) The engineer wouldn't of ok'd the ecu unless it passed a strict emissions test which at last quote cost over $2500.
Do yourself a favour and run the stock ecu. Theres also a vortech supercharged LJ floating around too.
Sump needs huge mods - Theres a bloke on Lextreme that has the Sump rail and bellhousing plate pattern at ABC laser cutting in Carrum downs.
Theres a toyota wrecker in Bayswater Vic that get the rails done too.
There is no aftermarket sump available that's any good. Hadfield and Quad Cam Australia sumps block off oil drain return galleries and don't utilise all of the original mounting bolts. They figure if a Aussie 4 speed only needs 4 block to bellhousing bolts then so should every other car despite that the Toyota engineers developed these engines with 8 retaining bolts. The CRS wet sump is not suited to any spirited driving. There is no OEM sump thats a true rear sump - The OEM "rear" sump is actually a mid sump.
Hope the pic helps
Heres a modded Toyota V12 -
#82
_Sprog_
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Posted 05 March 2009 - 05:07 PM
I've been a member of lextreme since 03. great info. I'll ask the guy's if the stock ecu can be remaped.
The drivability comes down to how good the tuning is, thats why im looking at the expensive ecu's. The more options and parameters you have to work with, the better the tune will be.
The stock ecu was never designed to work with positive manifold preasures or manual trans, and are built to a price. Piggybacks are just WRONG, unless you need any body control stuff from the oem ecu.
Turbos will be low mount, GT25's (running stock compression so don't need more than 6-8psi ...for now...) with dedicated lubrication and cooling.
I have a CRS sump but it needs mods (is for a HQ) so i was thinking of making a new one up from Aluminium plate.
The Bullet cars kit comes with Emissions Certificate
As for the 1GZ 5.0l V12, Im thinking:
LH/LX hatch
Firewall behind front seats
Transaxle gbox/diff
The drivability comes down to how good the tuning is, thats why im looking at the expensive ecu's. The more options and parameters you have to work with, the better the tune will be.
The stock ecu was never designed to work with positive manifold preasures or manual trans, and are built to a price. Piggybacks are just WRONG, unless you need any body control stuff from the oem ecu.
Turbos will be low mount, GT25's (running stock compression so don't need more than 6-8psi ...for now...) with dedicated lubrication and cooling.
I have a CRS sump but it needs mods (is for a HQ) so i was thinking of making a new one up from Aluminium plate.
The Bullet cars kit comes with Emissions Certificate
As for the 1GZ 5.0l V12, Im thinking:
LH/LX hatch
Firewall behind front seats
Transaxle gbox/diff
#83
_2DR_
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Posted 05 March 2009 - 06:19 PM
it is sounding more and more difficult as i look into it for the lc 
crs have block huggers for the 1uz that i was trying to figiure out would fit but dunno.
as for sump i would go dry sump for either.
cheers for the info
2dr
crs have block huggers for the 1uz that i was trying to figiure out would fit but dunno.
as for sump i would go dry sump for either.
cheers for the info
2dr
#84
_Sprog_
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Posted 05 March 2009 - 06:31 PM
For an lc/lj use a RB25,26,30 or 1/2JZ. V8's are too heavy, it would handle like a brick.
#85
_conceptss_
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Posted 06 March 2009 - 01:59 AM
The 1UZ weighs about 175kg dry without accessories AC P/S etc,For an lc/lj use a RB25,26,30 or 1/2JZ. V8's are too heavy, it would handle like a brick.
Doubt a turbo iron 6 would weigh less.
2DR Dry sumping won't be affordable. Theres a few dudes around the world that have TT 1uz in wild track cars that they've made up CNC billet dry sumps for. You'll have no dramas with a properly designed wet sump - Gricey used one to win bathurst in the TW/HRT VL
Try planet soarer - Australian Lexus Soarer Club for local suppliers of bolt on gear. Neil from Rush imports in Sydney has nearly finished final specs for off the shelf T56 6 speed conversion, He also supplies headers. I'd suggest get the engine in with the Crown v8 log headers, they still breathe ok. You could try and mod some tundra stainless steel headers from ebay in the states. Seen them go for $250 US including freight to Melbourne . Alloy race fabrication in braeside can make anything.......for a price.
Here's a SC 1UZ LJ that I found.
#86
_Sprog_
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Posted 06 March 2009 - 06:18 PM
Good point, anyone know the weights of the various engines? (1UZ, 1/2JZ, RB25-30, 202, 253, 308
#87
_Sprog_
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Posted 05 April 2009 - 06:22 PM
I've been slack again.
But got the engine bay all primed today.
Sorry for the crappy pic
I worked out that if i make up some new engine mounts, i can probably move the engine back 10 - 25 mm. Sump should then fit, Gearstick will line up withe hole better, and better weight distribution.
But got the engine bay all primed today.
Sorry for the crappy pic
I worked out that if i make up some new engine mounts, i can probably move the engine back 10 - 25 mm. Sump should then fit, Gearstick will line up withe hole better, and better weight distribution.
Edited by Sprog, 05 April 2009 - 06:24 PM.
#89
_Sprog_
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Posted 12 May 2009 - 06:45 PM
Photo's
Needs another coat or two.
But not bad for a backyard job.
Needs another coat or two.
But not bad for a backyard job.
#90
_Sprog_
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Posted 26 May 2009 - 05:59 PM
Quick Question: Anyone know what differences there are between a CRS HQ-WB and LH/LX kit?
#91
_Sprog_
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Posted 27 May 2009 - 06:15 PM
Back into it today.
Got the sump off and everything ready to lift the body onto the x-member. (again)
Should get it all togeather tomorrow, and start measuring up to see what mods have to be done.
Got the sump off and everything ready to lift the body onto the x-member. (again)
Should get it all togeather tomorrow, and start measuring up to see what mods have to be done.
#92
_Sprog_
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Posted 28 May 2009 - 07:28 PM
Engine In again.
Looks like i can move the engine back about 25mm, should fix the sump issues.
Looks like i can move the engine back about 25mm, should fix the sump issues.
#93
_Phantom10_
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Posted 28 May 2009 - 08:21 PM
Thats goona be sweet, one hell of a Transplant.
my mates dad has the Lancruiser version (2UZ-FE) and that flies lol, i may go out and steal it while he is sleeping
good luck with gettin it all together
my mates dad has the Lancruiser version (2UZ-FE) and that flies lol, i may go out and steal it while he is sleeping
good luck with gettin it all together
#94
_Sprog_
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Posted 30 May 2009 - 05:54 PM
Photos:
Engine in position
Mods to the sump marked in white.
Engine in position
Mods to the sump marked in white.
#95
_Sprog_
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Posted 31 May 2009 - 05:42 PM
Another constructive day.
Got the sump done and x-member striped for paint.
Can hopefully start final assy on engine bay this week.
I will need a set of UC frount upper suspension arms. Anyone have a spare set?
Got the sump done and x-member striped for paint.
Can hopefully start final assy on engine bay this week.
I will need a set of UC frount upper suspension arms. Anyone have a spare set?
#96
_HatchmanSS76_
_HatchmanSS76_
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Posted 05 June 2009 - 01:57 PM
Good to see this project still progressing and loving ya work.
#97
_Sprog_
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Posted 07 July 2009 - 04:25 PM
UPDATE:
Just tiding up and painting the k-frame, suspension bits.
UC arms turned up today, so i can start putting it all togeather (for the last time hopefully)
Just tiding up and painting the k-frame, suspension bits.
UC arms turned up today, so i can start putting it all togeather (for the last time hopefully)
#98
_Sprog_
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Posted 12 November 2009 - 06:54 PM
Front x-member is all back togeather.
spoke to an engineer this week, he said RTA wont approve a programmeable ECU, so i would have to use a factory one.
Found a factory ECU on ebay, should arrive next week.
I also need two igniters and an AFM ($1900 from Toyota, Bugger that) so im going to look at a soarer half cut ($1550) tomorrow.
spoke to an engineer this week, he said RTA wont approve a programmeable ECU, so i would have to use a factory one.
Found a factory ECU on ebay, should arrive next week.
I also need two igniters and an AFM ($1900 from Toyota, Bugger that) so im going to look at a soarer half cut ($1550) tomorrow.
Edited by Sprog, 12 November 2009 - 06:55 PM.
#99
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Posted 16 November 2009 - 02:57 PM
Have you tried bullet supercars?? (if they are still around) Apparently they ADR approved a specific tune to comply. Pretty sure it was using an Autronic programmable ecu. Should be a cheaper and a more updatable option in the long run. It will depend on RTA and your specific engineer to accept the ADR approval.Front x-member is all back togeather.
spoke to an engineer this week, he said RTA wont approve a programmeable ECU, so i would have to use a factory one.
Found a factory ECU on ebay, should arrive next week.
I also need two igniters and an AFM ($1900 from Toyota, Bugger that) so im going to look at a soarer half cut ($1550) tomorrow.
#100
_Sprog_
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Posted 16 November 2009 - 05:36 PM
I got the half cut home yesterday (only $1400 but had to help the wreaker cut is up), all the bits are there, so ill use the factory ecu and save a couple of grand. And i sure the toyota engineers spent more time tuning the engine than a workshop. if i run into trouble with it i can always hide an aftermarket behind the dash.
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