I just bought a Chrome 100 AMP Alternator for the Torana today,just taken the old one off but on the new alternator it has 2 MALE SPADE CONNECTIONS whereas my old one had only one? and just one FEMALE SPADE connector on the wiring and of course the main power wire with the eyelet that goes on the threaded rod on the Alternator. Which Male Spade bit to I connect the Female spade Connector to?,do I have alter my wiring? I dont even know what this wire does? HELP!
Urgent,conecting 100 AMP Alternator
Started by
_76S.L.R_
, Sep 27 2008 04:30 PM
37 replies to this topic
#2
Tiny
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 04:42 PM
I'm not 110% sure, but you should only need to connect the D+ wire with the spade terminal, and as you said the main power wire, but please confirm this as it's only my faint memory from wehn we installed the big 120A on the monaro!!
#3
TerrA LX
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 05:00 PM
Maybe post a pic or at least model number, sounds like one is the original charge wire and the second maybe the sense wire.
#4
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 05:02 PM
Ive had another good look at the wiring and looks like that wire with the female spade connector is just a wire that goes to the battery/alternator warning light on the dash?,I looked through numerous old threads on here and read that you need a sensing wire that goes to the + on the battery when hooking up these 100 AMP units but elsewhwere where these 100 Amp alternators are sold they say you only need 1 wire to hook them up= ohhhh Im so confused............
#5
rodomo
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 05:06 PM
Small wire to D+ and is should work.
#6
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 05:27 PM
Thing is,D+ is not indicated on the Alternator!? just an opening with the 2 Male Spade Connectors nothing stamped on it,no brand name or anything either so I have no idea which spade I connect the Small wire to??,Do I need to wire up this Sensing wire thingee too?Small wire to D+ and is should work.
#7
_BlownOutlaw_
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 05:29 PM
Gday
If its like mine, which I just got going, which is an 85A unit I got from Castlemain Auto Elect, its got the black regulator set up on the back with a socket which has 2 terminals, like mini spade terninals. One is labled L the other is S. One is to the light the other is 12V sense I think. The original lead to the light has been connected to L and the S is to go to 12V ignition, ive put mine to the coil + . Seems to work good now that I have gotten the resistor wire out of circuit.
If its like mine, which I just got going, which is an 85A unit I got from Castlemain Auto Elect, its got the black regulator set up on the back with a socket which has 2 terminals, like mini spade terninals. One is labled L the other is S. One is to the light the other is 12V sense I think. The original lead to the light has been connected to L and the S is to go to 12V ignition, ive put mine to the coil + . Seems to work good now that I have gotten the resistor wire out of circuit.
#8
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 05:40 PM
Mines an 100 AMP version with internal regulator and from my understanding I thought I just put that main power wire with the eyelet to the same threaded rod part like on my old one then connect that female spade connector wire to one of the spade terminals on the alternator but as its not marked I dont know which one or how to find out which one!? but Im not the brightest spark when it comes to electrics so Im probably wrong assuming this is how its supose to be wired up?.................Gday
If its like mine, which I just got going, which is an 85A unit I got from Castlemain Auto Elect, its got the black regulator set up on the back with a socket which has 2 terminals, like mini spade terninals. One is labled L the other is S. One is to the light the other is 12V sense I think. The original lead to the light has been connected to L and the S is to go to 12V ignition, ive put mine to the coil + . Seems to work good now that I have gotten the resistor wire out of circuit.
#9
rodomo
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 05:47 PM
Oh, that alternator.
What other car do you have at home?
What other car do you have at home?
#10
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 06:14 PM
a Ricer NISSAN 180SX which is my daily driver:308's too thirsty for todays petrol prices.............Oh, that alternator.
What other car do you have at home?
#11
_BlownOutlaw_
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 06:26 PM
Put the spade connector on one of the pins, dont start the engine, but just turn the key to on, and see if the dash light comes on? if not try the other one.
Could be an option, but you would think it would have a label of some sort
Could be an option, but you would think it would have a label of some sort
#12
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 06:32 PM
I had thought of doing that but I havent tried yet because I thought if I put the Spade bit wire on the wrong terminal something might f*ck up?,with these internal 100 amp alternators they allways list them as saying you can hook them up in Single wire fashon or 3 wire? if I hook up my wiring the way it is now to the alternator I'll only be running 2 wires so still unsure if this will cause probs? and the other concern is I dont know if you have to to upgrade the gauge of wiring when going to 100 Amp units?...............Put the spade connector on one of the pins, dont start the engine, but just turn the key to on, and see if the dash light comes on? if not try the other one.
Could be an option, but you would think it would have a label of some sort
#13
_BlownOutlaw_
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 06:39 PM
Where did you get it from ?? is there anything we can look at on the net to see it ?
#14
rodomo
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 06:41 PM
Does the alt. on your Nissan have a similar plug? Is the Nissan a Bosch alt?
#15
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 07:34 PM
just had a look at the nissan one,it has the usual eyelet power wire,another wire/plug at the lower rear then a 2 pin plug(with 2 wires) that plugs in the side of the alternator like the opening/shape on the alternator I bought today.The guy I bought the Chrome Alternator off is selling them from home for,no markings on the box or alternator? he says they are manufactured by the same mob that makes the MSD ones:nice chap too we spoke cars for agesDoes the alt. on your Nissan have a similar plug? Is the Nissan a Bosch alt?
he said he just runs a single wire set up to his one as he doesnt need the dash warning light(Big Block HQ ute) so yeh it sounds like I just have to find which male spade my wire clips on? but still puzzled as why theress 2 male spades in the opening,must be agood reason? I'll try get a pic up.
#16
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Posted 27 September 2008 - 08:24 PM
Have a look here, scroll half way down the page on the right just before the schematic diagram. VN alternator.
http://holdenpaedia.....php/Alternator
http://holdenpaedia.....php/Alternator
#17
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 28 September 2008 - 10:53 AM
Well by reading that ,I do need to upgrade my wiring unlesss my current wiring is large enough? wiring was changed when the AU fans were put in(not by me) but I dont know how to tell if the wiring is large enough/of the right gauge :also in reading that link I need a sensing wire to go to the + on the battery and the other spade needs the Dash light wire.Last night I tried that dash light wire on both spade terminals on the Alternator but the dash light would not light up on either of those spades: when you have the car on accessories I was sure the Battery and brake light logos were supose to light up and then when the motors running they turn off? mine no longer light up at all.
#18
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Posted 28 September 2008 - 11:26 AM
Thats interesting.
Why are you changing your alternator in the first place?
If your dashlight globe is blown, your old alternator wouldn't have worked either.
Why are you changing your alternator in the first place?
If your dashlight globe is blown, your old alternator wouldn't have worked either.
#19
_BlownOutlaw_
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Posted 28 September 2008 - 11:26 AM
Well this is basically what I had to do. I had the battery + connected to the main charging terminal on the alternator. Then, with the key, in the position in which it returns to after you crank the engine to start it, which I pressumed was called 'on' not accessories, (but dont crank it), I was told the L terminal goes to the Light. So i temporarily made a connection to that with the existing D+ lead (i think it was), this is the only other lead I had connected to the original alternator. The light came on when i moved the key to the on position.
I was told the other terminal labled S was to go to a +12V ignition source, as you dont want 12V into it all the time from the battery, so I was told to make a lead up between + terminal of the coil and the S of the alt. The alt only charges when the engine is running, hence the 12V from coil.
Worked OK this way.
The lights dont necessarily turn off when the motor is running, they turn off when the alternator is providing power. Hence you can have a faulty alternator and the warning light will come on even if the engine is running.
I was told the other terminal labled S was to go to a +12V ignition source, as you dont want 12V into it all the time from the battery, so I was told to make a lead up between + terminal of the coil and the S of the alt. The alt only charges when the engine is running, hence the 12V from coil.
Worked OK this way.
The lights dont necessarily turn off when the motor is running, they turn off when the alternator is providing power. Hence you can have a faulty alternator and the warning light will come on even if the engine is running.
#20
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 28 September 2008 - 11:42 AM
Because before I pulled the old alternator out that light worked,mind you a few days ago I was fiddling behind the dash(fitting LED's in the dash)either ive distrurbed some wiring,blown a bulb? or ive just conected the dash warning light wrong.I was fitting the 100 AMP Alternator because my batterys keep going flat?,im running Twin AU FANS and just fitted H4 Lights so bought the 100 AMP Alternator to try help the problem.Thats interesting.
Why are you changing your alternator in the first place?
If your dashlight globe is blown, your old alternator wouldn't have worked either.
Anyone know what size wires I should be running in using this 100 AMP Alternator?,the other problem still remains too:I dont know which spade terminal is which on the Alternator?(why its not marked I'll never know?)...............
#21
rodomo
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Posted 28 September 2008 - 12:07 PM
This is from the link above:
The S (Sense wire) connects to the Alternator's B terminal or the Battery's positive terminal. The other terminal connects to the Indicator light.
The S (Sense wire) connects to the Alternator's B terminal or the Battery's positive terminal. The other terminal connects to the Indicator light.
#22
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 28 September 2008 - 02:27 PM
I took the dash out again,checked the bulbs(swapped the Battery+brake warning bulbs to ther T10 Holders) Bulbs are fine ,rang the guy I bought the Alternator off and asked what spade terminal is what as their not marked=he didnt know either! and said just try the Sense wire and Dash Light Wire on the spade terminals and if its not right just change them around.He says nothing will fry/stuff up if they are around the wrong way?,I have a bad habbit of buying the cheaper option with parts(its in the Blood) but its causing grief again going the cheaper route!.What I cant understand is why with this New Alternator it needs= the Main Power Feed Wire,Dash Light Wire and a Sense wire going to the + on the battery but the old one just required the Main Power Feed Wire and the Dash Light Wire(No Sense Wire)
#23
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 29 September 2008 - 04:54 PM
ARGHHHHHHHH!,Got the Alternator all wired up correctly,Lined it up so the Fan belt is in alignment started here up and the bastard thing makes a TINK,TINK,TINK,TINK! noise!!!??? like the Alternators rotor is hitting on something but ive looked 3-4 times and it doesnt actually contact on anything? :anyone got any ideas what could be causing it to make the awfull noise? 
#24
TerrA LX
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Posted 29 September 2008 - 08:52 PM
Fan belt too tight?
*like the sense wire that makes no sense lol*
*like the sense wire that makes no sense lol*
#25
_The Baron_
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Posted 29 September 2008 - 09:58 PM
OK, sense wire is just that, it senses the battery voltage.
As there is no load on the sense wire, there will be no (minuet) volt drop under load.
I believe this information is used by the alternator smarts to regulate the voltage applied to the battery for charging purposes. My alternator (Bosch 85 amp) also boosts the exitation field at low rpm (idle) to maintain the charge/voltage produced.
Works great.
PS mine has a special plug to make these two small connections. They appear as very small male spade connection on the alternator but should have the special plug.
I have a connection diagram if needed, pm me and I can fax/email if needed.
Cheers
As there is no load on the sense wire, there will be no (minuet) volt drop under load.
I believe this information is used by the alternator smarts to regulate the voltage applied to the battery for charging purposes. My alternator (Bosch 85 amp) also boosts the exitation field at low rpm (idle) to maintain the charge/voltage produced.
Works great.
PS mine has a special plug to make these two small connections. They appear as very small male spade connection on the alternator but should have the special plug.
I have a connection diagram if needed, pm me and I can fax/email if needed.
Cheers
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