PS mine has a special plug to make these two small connections. They appear as very small male spade connection on the alternator but should have the special plug.
Cheers
Fuel injector connectors fit here.
Urgent,conecting 100 AMP Alternator
Started by
_76S.L.R_
, Sep 27 2008 04:30 PM
37 replies to this topic
#26
TerrA LX
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Posted 29 September 2008 - 11:01 PM
Fuel injector connectors fit here.
#27
_76S.L.R_
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 04 October 2008 - 03:47 PM
All fixed now chaps!! 
shes putting out 14.5 volts,we tested to see if anything showed to be draining the batterys power whith everything switched off but theres no indication of it at all? she ran the battery flat 3 times before I fitted this Alternator,most recent was = I left the negative terminal connected to the battery for a week(usually take it off when not in use) and tried to start her up and it had hardly any power left in it at all?.Still dont know if everything is fixed?,if the battery goes flat again then I'll be buggered if I know why its draining flat!Its only a weekend or every second weekend driver but I start her up and run it for a bit every week to keep the battery active.The battery was tested at Autopro about 3 weeks ago,when it was flat the second time they said no cells had dropped but the charge in the battery was a little low? thats why I fitted up the 100AMP Alternator so Im hoping its sorted,if not I'll scream..............
shes putting out 14.5 volts,we tested to see if anything showed to be draining the batterys power whith everything switched off but theres no indication of it at all? she ran the battery flat 3 times before I fitted this Alternator,most recent was = I left the negative terminal connected to the battery for a week(usually take it off when not in use) and tried to start her up and it had hardly any power left in it at all?.Still dont know if everything is fixed?,if the battery goes flat again then I'll be buggered if I know why its draining flat!Its only a weekend or every second weekend driver but I start her up and run it for a bit every week to keep the battery active.The battery was tested at Autopro about 3 weeks ago,when it was flat the second time they said no cells had dropped but the charge in the battery was a little low? thats why I fitted up the 100AMP Alternator so Im hoping its sorted,if not I'll scream..............
#28
_76S.L.R_
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 14 October 2008 - 09:36 PM
Well guys,I have another problem with electrics in the LX =since changing over to the 100 Amp Alternator when you rev the car(statonary) the the interior light and headlights go brighter!!!!! what the hells going on here? im sure when the old standard alternator was in this never happened HELP
#29
rodomo
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Posted 14 October 2008 - 11:07 PM
Check fan belt tension
Is the pulley the same size as the old one?
Check for over charging.
Is the pulley the same size as the old one?
Check for over charging.
#30
_The Baron_
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Posted 15 October 2008 - 08:46 AM
I have heard but can not prove, that these big amp alternators are really designed for stationary engines and therefore only perform when up to operational revs.
Again just hearsay.
Again just hearsay.
#31
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 15 October 2008 - 07:21 PM
Im starting to get annoyed buy all these elect probs with the Torana!,The Au Fans seem to suck the life right out of the electrical system 
when Im driving the stock Volmeter Gauge on the dash is right up to the 3/4 mark(too high??),the fans kick on and it drops right down to half way(perhaps this is normal??) when they stop it goes back up to the 3/4 mark. Fan Belt tension feels fine,the Wheel on the 100AMP Alternator is only 10mm wider than the old one ,maybe the wheel is heavier? although did not apear to be before I fitted the new one(when comparing sizes etc before fitting). So I have this Alternator problem coupled with my Hard to start when hot issue + the Fans turning on when trying to start the car (if the water temp is hot),starting to look like I'll have to take it to an Auto Electrician but was hoping to avoid that :$$$$ but too many probs here. I had to drive it work today and will have to tomorrow too as my Rice Burner(Daily Driver) is getting seen to as well 
im off to have a drink............
when Im driving the stock Volmeter Gauge on the dash is right up to the 3/4 mark(too high??),the fans kick on and it drops right down to half way(perhaps this is normal??) when they stop it goes back up to the 3/4 mark. Fan Belt tension feels fine,the Wheel on the 100AMP Alternator is only 10mm wider than the old one ,maybe the wheel is heavier? although did not apear to be before I fitted the new one(when comparing sizes etc before fitting). So I have this Alternator problem coupled with my Hard to start when hot issue + the Fans turning on when trying to start the car (if the water temp is hot),starting to look like I'll have to take it to an Auto Electrician but was hoping to avoid that :$$$$ but too many probs here. I had to drive it work today and will have to tomorrow too as my Rice Burner(Daily Driver) is getting seen to as well im off to have a drink............
#32
_76S.L.R_
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 15 October 2008 - 07:23 PM
Been thinking of selling the S.L.R for a while now maybe time to say goodbye? its just too $$$ to run/keep fixing probs and needs quite a few bits of rust cut out now but then think after its sold I may regret it?
Edited by 76S.L.R, 15 October 2008 - 07:32 PM.
#33
TerrA LX
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Posted 15 October 2008 - 07:24 PM
Theoretically an alternator maximum output, no matter what size, will only be equal to the load required.
In saying this, a 55 amp alternator will be too small if your electrical system is placing 65amps on the battery.
In saying this, a 55 amp alternator will be too small if your electrical system is placing 65amps on the battery.
#34
_SS Hatchback_
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Posted 22 February 2009 - 08:42 PM
I know its a little late but just to not catch anyone else out , you cant run a LED light in place of your usual charge light .Because before I pulled the old alternator out that light worked,mind you a few days ago I was fiddling behind the dash(fitting LED's in the dash)either ive distrurbed some wiring,blown a bulb? or ive just conected the dash warning light wrong.I was fitting the 100 AMP Alternator because my batterys keep going flat?,im running Twin AU FANS and just fitted H4 Lights so bought the 100 AMP Alternator to try help the problem.
Anyone know what size wires I should be running in using this 100 AMP Alternator?,the other problem still remains too:I dont know which spade terminal is which on the Alternator?(why its not marked I'll never know?)...............
BTW how s the progress with this going?
#35
antelopeslr5000
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Posted 22 February 2009 - 09:21 PM
I know its a little late but just to not catch anyone else out , you cant run a LED light in place of your usual charge light .
That depends on what type of alternator you're using.
#36
_1QUICK LJ_
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Posted 24 February 2009 - 11:52 PM
i have the same type of altenator on my car, yes the lights do go brighter when you rev it as these aternators dont charge under 1000rpm, but they do work fine, as for the wires? looking at the alternator from the front the warning light wire goes to the terminal on the left, then you run a wire directly from the positive main charge terminal on the back of the alt and loop it to the other terminal this is the sensing wire. all done
#37
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 04 March 2009 - 09:41 PM
In the end the Piece of Shit Chrome Alternator got thrown out $160.00 down the drain= cheap chinese utter junk!,made a horrible whirling noise like the bearings in it were #@$^%& after 1-2 days of use,was overcharging the battery too much and lights going brighter when the motor was reved= took it apart to see if I could change the Voltage Regulator,Brushes were broken and some other component inside broken!? might have the bits about here somewhere?.We put the Old Standard Alternator back on,works ok but when the AU Fans come on theres a pretty noticeable power loss as the fans draw so much power!!, Im looking into a "SPAL Fan Controller" to sort this out and also fans are still coming on if the coolants hot and your trying to kick the motor over so that has to be fixed also just had no time or $$$$ for the Torana lately as ive been trying to get my Bloody Rice Burner 180SX(Daily) to run right for months! bloody cars.........................I know its a little late but just to not catch anyone else out , you cant run a LED light in place of your usual charge light .
BTW how s the progress with this going?
Edited by 76S.L.R, 04 March 2009 - 09:42 PM.
#38
_torbirdie_
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Posted 05 March 2009 - 10:49 AM
In the end the Piece of Shit Chrome Alternator got thrown out $160.00 down the drain= cheap chinese utter junk!,made a horrible whirling noise like the bearings in it were #@$^%& after 1-2 days of use,was overcharging the battery too much and lights going brighter when the motor was reved= took it apart to see if I could change the Voltage Regulator,Brushes were broken and some other component inside broken!? might have the bits about here somewhere?.We put the Old Standard Alternator back on,works ok but when the AU Fans come on theres a pretty noticeable power loss as the fans draw so much power!!, Im looking into a "SPAL Fan Controller" to sort this out and also fans are still coming on if the coolants hot and your trying to kick the motor over so that has to be fixed also just had no time or $$$$ for the Torana lately as ive been trying to get my Bloody Rice Burner 180SX(Daily) to run right for months! bloody cars.........................
Does sound like the alternator was a piece of junk. An alternator that wont charge under a 1000rpm has no place on a road car.
I doubt the problem with your flat battery is alternator related, unless it was somehow drawing a current through the alternator when it was parked. Perhaps put the old alternator back on and see what happens when you disconnect the alternator to battery +ve wire, but leave everything else connected.
If upgrading to a higher output alternator, check carefully what the output is at low rpm, if you are going to be running high powered fans, then most likely they will only be needed when the motor is idling, one with a lower output of minimum of 40A would suffice.
recent comms have 100/40A.
In regards to your fans going while trying to start the motor: there is an easy fix, connect the trigger wire for the relay solenoid,terminal 85 or 86( I assume you are using one) to the accessories circuit, rather than the ignition circuit or whatever else you have it connected to at present. The accessory circuit is killed when you crank the starter.
To prevent the fans coming on if you just leave the accessories on, or to safeguard against the fans coming on when the motor isnt running, have the temp control switch in series with the oil pressure switch(fit one with a tpiece if you have only the oil pressure sender for the gauge).
Edited by torbirdie, 05 March 2009 - 10:55 AM.
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