53 replies to this topic

[76lxhatch]

Even with that tool is would be hard to do.

Once compressed and when you install the assembly, I assume the threaded section points down through the shock mounting hole in the bottom arm. Because it sure as hell won't go in with the thread pointing up.

If you did get the assembly in and the spindle bolted up. How the duck do you retrieve the arms (spring compressor)through the lower arm shocker hole? They look to big.

When the spring is installed, you can only see a couple of the coils showing, the rest is up in the cross member and that is what makes if a PR!CK of a job and best done by doing one side at a time with the Xmember in the car.

That's why the original ones had flatter bars, but still easy enough with the curved one I'm sure. Only the bottom end uses the arm(s) on the spring coils, the top end just acts on the top of the shock mount. Once the spring is fitted you unwind the thread completely and pull the piece out from between the coils with the suspension at full droop.

[76lxhatch]

From the GMH service manual:

[Heath]

Depends a bit on what your springs are like etc. When I did mine last, I had access to a pair of external spring compressors and an internal one, they happened to have exactly the same thread on the long bolt thing. Where the shock hole is located at the top, I put the threaded 'nut' kinda thing off the external spring compressor, and only used 'half' of the internal spring compressor, once again folding it up and squeezing it through the shock hole in the lower arm. It was a pain in the arse, and I found you still needed to compress it all with the jack afterwards anyway, the only point of the spring compressor is to make it temporarily short enough to seat the end of the spring in the right spot of the lower control arm.

I wish Toranas came with adjustable coil-overs.

[76lxhatch]

I reinterate..to save your life and limbs...wait until you have engine weight in the car..its easy then...I can see people dying with this thread...literally...dangerous guys..
R

Yeah but its just as dangerous with the weight in the car, people get tempted to cheat - crabby's spring compressor is absolutely fine, nice and safe

[AbsynthHatch]

How will the spring compressor work when you have heavy duty lowered springs?

That being with larger, tighter coils, with very little gap between them

That spring compressor looks to work on standard original type springs

[76lxhatch]

Larger coils yes but they're not usually tighter as they are stiffer (remember you'd get coil binding issues if they were too close together at full droop). Also a lot less distance to compress so it should work fine

[Marks LXTorana]

For anyone interested, I discovered an effective way of installing standard length springs without the cost and danger of the internal spring compressor; clothes line! I have external spring compressors which we all know are useless with the Holden set up.

 

After trying a number of ways to get my springs back into the car, I thought I would try the clothes line. It has a soft outer lining but inside it is made of fibre that has excellent tensile strength. The secret was in the way it is tied to the coils, as follows:

Cut a length of clothes line about 1.5 metres long (you shouldn't need it all though).

Position the spring compressors on the spring so that one is close to the coil end one is opposite. This is important because the clothesline will interfere with the shock tower if it is put in the wrong position.

Compress the springs so that the total length is 300mm or as close as possible to this critical length (at 300mm you can easily slip the spring into position and it will be seated properly in the lower control arm.

Once compressed, tie the clothesline to the second coil from the bottom. If you tie it to the bottom coil you will not be able to remove it once it is seated.

Start threading the line so that it loops the next coil up, then back, then 2 up, then back 1, then 2 up, then back one etc. Continue up the spring but leave the last 2-3 coils that will be hidden inside the shock tower.

With the same line, run it across to the opposite side of the spring and make you way back down, then run it back to where you started and tie it off at the same place.

Slowly release the compressors and you will find there should be no stretch in the line at all and they will remain compressed.

When installing the spring, you should find the lines will be on the left and right sides, when the coilend is positioned correctly in the lower control arm.

Once jacked up and the ball joint is secured, release the line and there should be sufficient clearance to remove all the line without fouling on anything.

 

I did find I needed my wife to sit on the bonnet and I need to pry the upper control arm down with a solid bar to overcome the retained spring tension, but it was no great problem.

 

The first time I did it, I positioned the line incorrectly so I undid it and started again. It was quick and easy and due to the wrapping of individual coils, there was plenty of strength in the line to do the job safely.

 

I will post a photo soon.

[Marks LXTorana]

This is a photo of how I looped the line around the compressed spring.

 

 

 

And this is why you need to ensure the line is positioned to the left and right. Notice the line interferes with the shock tower and it will not seat correctly in the lower control arm. It took 10 mins to undo and reposition the line. Ignore the cable ties. This was my first attempt at compressing the spring but most could not handle the tension.

Edited by Marks LXTorana, 25 February 2014 - 09:31 AM.

[76lxhatch]

April Fool's Day is not until 1st April, don't post that here.

[Marks LXTorana]

To be honest I didn't like the alternatives!

 

 

The clothes line worked a treat and even if you were to accidentally cut the line, the spring will not release all its energy due to how the line is wrapped. I acknowledge it doesn't look great although I practice tied it several times. Of course, everything on these forums has to be weighed up to determine whether it suits, and don't try anything you are not comfortable doing. Welding and grinding with no eye or ear protection is common in posted photos although each to their own I guess...

Edited by Marks LXTorana, 25 February 2014 - 05:51 PM.

[sibhs]

Thanks for the write-up Mark.
Spring doesn't look compressed enough to fit in an LJ though.
Cheers
Marty

[Marks LXTorana]

Thanks for the write-up Mark.
Spring doesn't look compressed enough to fit in an LJ though.
Cheers
Marty

 

No problem Marty. It may not suit everyone although it was the only way to get the longer springs back in the car using the "resources" available to me at the time. For my LX it seems 300mm is about the critical (maximum) length to enable the springs to be seated properly without any fear of them popping out when bolting it all back together.

 

I could have compressed them much more but didn't want to go any further than I needed to, which is probably why I felt comfortable with using the clothes line!

[Centurian]

Hi Mark,

          Thanks heaps for that method you described for getting standard springs in. It worked a charm on my LH! Couple of small points I will add: I used a clothes line cable that has a stranded steel core. I just felt more secure using that. Second, I started with a securing knot in the middle coil, and ended on the other side middle coil. It was easier to untie at the end. Your wire installation procedure was brilliant. Full marks to you for idea and  sharing. 

Cheers.