Hey there,
Just wondering if anyone has used or has heard any reports on the use of elecronic rust preventatives such as Sacrificial Anode systems?? Do they work? or is spraying the inner body with one of the various spray on coatings better?
My hatch currently has a little bit of rust which I intend on getting cut out, however to prevent any future rust occuring, what is the best method? Due to living on the gold coast, I feel this is very important to keep my torry from rusting away on me.
Also, does anyone manufacture a cover for the hatch lid hinges to prevent water from getting in these? or what do people use here if anything at all?
any comments will be greatly appreciated,
Cheers
Matt
Rust Prevention
Started by
Orange SS
, Mar 03 2006 08:37 AM
17 replies to this topic
#1
Orange SS
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Posted 03 March 2006 - 08:37 AM
#2
rodomo
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Posted 03 March 2006 - 08:54 AM
Is your car a daily driver?
A lot of those gizmo's make batteries flat in a couple of weeks.
RACV MAN
A lot of those gizmo's make batteries flat in a couple of weeks.
RACV MAN
#3
ToRunYa
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Posted 03 March 2006 - 08:56 AM
there was a pair of hatch hinge covers on ebay, dunno if there still there or not, i've also brought some thinish rubber from clark rubber and put behind the covers so its fairly difficult for water to get in there, but its still gonna happen though 
#4
Orange SS
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Posted 03 March 2006 - 09:01 AM
My Car is a daily driver at the moment, so no worries about a flat battery. It will be use only as a weekend car within a few months after I fid someone to paint and cut the small amount of rust in there. But id rather a flat battery than rust reoccuring. Has anyone out there got one of these prevention units in their car? Just wanting to know how effective they are. For the price of a few hundred dollars it seems like a good investment to keep my torry rust free if they work.
#6
Toranamat69
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Posted 03 March 2006 - 11:22 AM
G'day Orange SS, I have taken the covers off my hinge covers as they were never fitted properly anyway.
The panel shop I go to pointed out this is where a lot of the water gets in to do all sorts of nasty stuff and even the original covers are pretty useless as they have a big gap for water to get in anyway.
They described to me how they treat the issue using some nicely cut out bits of alloy to leave a slot for the hinge to move up and down and then fill the rest of the gap with Selley 'No more big gaps' to seal it off - you can then chuck the original covers back over if you want that look or I plan to make some nice cut out cover plates and stick them on so there are no screws visible.
If you need to get to the bolts at any time, you just have to scrape out the no more gaps and re-do it afterwards.
All going well, I plan to do this over this weekend. so I'll take some pics.
I have thought about those electronic rust things a few times over the years but I have pretty much convinced myself they are snake oil. I wouldn;t waste my money.
M@
The panel shop I go to pointed out this is where a lot of the water gets in to do all sorts of nasty stuff and even the original covers are pretty useless as they have a big gap for water to get in anyway.
They described to me how they treat the issue using some nicely cut out bits of alloy to leave a slot for the hinge to move up and down and then fill the rest of the gap with Selley 'No more big gaps' to seal it off - you can then chuck the original covers back over if you want that look or I plan to make some nice cut out cover plates and stick them on so there are no screws visible.
If you need to get to the bolts at any time, you just have to scrape out the no more gaps and re-do it afterwards.
All going well, I plan to do this over this weekend. so I'll take some pics.
I have thought about those electronic rust things a few times over the years but I have pretty much convinced myself they are snake oil. I wouldn;t waste my money.
M@
Edited by Toranamat69, 03 March 2006 - 11:25 AM.
#7
_Baronvonrort_
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Posted 03 March 2006 - 11:22 AM
I use the zinc anodes.
Go to any marine supply store and they are about $10.
Go to any marine supply store and they are about $10.
#8
_Leakey_
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Posted 16 March 2006 - 04:49 PM
Makes sense.
Before fridge doors were predominantly plastic, just about every
door had a small wire attached to it, not so much as an earth,
but as a rust preventative, due to the extremes of temp. difference
and humidity inside and out.
Much like a car. Unless its a beer fridge, I guess the car has more
of the elements acting on it being outside.
Odd though that its not a factory thing? You would reckon they would
make a hoohaa about something like that. Instead they seem to focus
more on under coats and zinc treatments. Maybe a good reason for
not doing this.
- Then again it would make a great anti personelle device if you switch
it over to high power eh?!!! Yo donna tacha ma car!
Getting a bit off track....
Cheers, Leakey
Before fridge doors were predominantly plastic, just about every
door had a small wire attached to it, not so much as an earth,
but as a rust preventative, due to the extremes of temp. difference
and humidity inside and out.
Much like a car. Unless its a beer fridge, I guess the car has more
of the elements acting on it being outside.
Odd though that its not a factory thing? You would reckon they would
make a hoohaa about something like that. Instead they seem to focus
more on under coats and zinc treatments. Maybe a good reason for
not doing this.
- Then again it would make a great anti personelle device if you switch
it over to high power eh?!!! Yo donna tacha ma car!
Getting a bit off track....
Cheers, Leakey
#9
gtrboyy
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Posted 16 March 2006 - 08:15 PM
Out of curiosity,can you explain how this works?I use the zinc anodes.
Go to any marine supply store and they are about $10.
#10
_Hotrodder_
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Posted 16 March 2006 - 09:47 PM
I'll give it a try.Out of curiosity,can you explain how this works?
The sacrificial anodes being discussed are called "Cathodic Protection systems".
Basically, if you have two unlike metals, and you pass an electrical current through them, one metal will corrode and not the other. The best example is a battery terminal, copper terminals are eaten before the lead post is. Cars are a haven for this type of corrosion, as even two different castings of steel will create conditions for cathodic corrosion. When you introduce aluminium, it gets worse! How many aluminium manifolds have you seen where the water necks and jackets are all corroded away? The electrical current running through the car's electrical system passes through the body, which is electrically connected to the battery. If there is any resistance in the electrical system (bad grounds or non-existent grounds to the block for example) you have instant cathodic corrosion. The sacrifical anodes being discussed are made from zinc, which is where the corrosion will take place instead of your precious vehicle. Once the zinc is all eaten up, however, the process continues wherever there is an electrical current.
In automotive applications they are mainly used in cooling systems to prevent aluminium heads/blocks/radiators/manifolds etc from being eaten away.
BTW, this does NOT stop iron oxide, or rust due to water/air. the best way to prevent rust of this nature is good old fish-oil. It stinks for a week or so, but will never rust again on the surface its been applied to.
I hope this clarifies things a bit, as its not an easy thing to describe to a non-technical person.
#11
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 16 March 2006 - 09:55 PM
So where do you stick the zinc anode?
#13
J-Rod
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Posted 17 March 2006 - 07:09 AM
Below the waterlineSo where do you stick the zinc anode?
Should you expience this type of corrosion, a product called "Duralac" will offer protection when applied between the dissimilar metals.
#14
_Baronvonrort_
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Posted 17 March 2006 - 11:56 AM
The Zinc anodes can be purchased from any good marine shop.
I think a better option is to buy a can of "Cold Galv" from bunnings,which is a Zinc based paint and cover any rust prone areas with that when you have it back to bare metal and then paint over that.
I would even consider taking a panel to a trailer manufacturer (cheapest place) and getting them to galvanise it,which is a zinc coating.
I think a better option is to buy a can of "Cold Galv" from bunnings,which is a Zinc based paint and cover any rust prone areas with that when you have it back to bare metal and then paint over that.
I would even consider taking a panel to a trailer manufacturer (cheapest place) and getting them to galvanise it,which is a zinc coating.
#15
_David_
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Posted 19 March 2006 - 01:58 PM
I can now supply a huge selection off HOLDEN trim,including all the muscle car TORANA"S,GTR,GTR option XU-1,SLR,SLR5000 and option's L34 and A9X,I all so supply and fit ELECTRONIC RUST unit's,contact my self David,at Dave's all Car Cleaning on 0412413117
#16
shanegtr
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Posted 26 March 2006 - 02:53 PM
I installed one of these units in my cruiser after I bogged it in tidal flats. Cut a long story short it was sitting in knee deep water 4 times and didnt get fully cleaned and salty mud washed out for just over 2 weeks. Installed the unit and what rust had come up by the time I installed it slowed a huge amount. That was near on 2 years ago now, and I havent found any new rusted areas, which I do a though search for at every service.
#17
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 26 March 2006 - 04:27 PM
Just some pts that may be confused from the above. Galvanisation typically only involves high temperature dipping into molten zinc, but other metals can also be added to the mix Mg,Al
Zinc coating, can be termed as galvanization, but is more commonly just a zinc added paint or zinc electroplating. A galvanized coating is superior to a zinc coated article.
Sacrificial anodes(don�t require an external current source), work by setting up a current b/w two electrically different metals(electron attracting ability) it will cause one metal to corrode and the other to be unaffected. The sacrificial lump, it doesn�t have to be directly adjacent to the metal being protected, just in contact. Galvanisation and zinc coating are also forms of sacrifical anodes.
Cathodic protection: external power supply basically does the same as above
What works, cathodic protection works well on large structures, why not on cars�don�t have any experience with it though.
Have recoated all the inside of my doors, sanded back to metal with zinc/galvan paint and they still rusted��so unfortunately cant claim I know the answers to whats best on the torrie!
Zinc coating, can be termed as galvanization, but is more commonly just a zinc added paint or zinc electroplating. A galvanized coating is superior to a zinc coated article.
Sacrificial anodes(don�t require an external current source), work by setting up a current b/w two electrically different metals(electron attracting ability) it will cause one metal to corrode and the other to be unaffected. The sacrificial lump, it doesn�t have to be directly adjacent to the metal being protected, just in contact. Galvanisation and zinc coating are also forms of sacrifical anodes.
Cathodic protection: external power supply basically does the same as above
What works, cathodic protection works well on large structures, why not on cars�don�t have any experience with it though.
Have recoated all the inside of my doors, sanded back to metal with zinc/galvan paint and they still rusted��so unfortunately cant claim I know the answers to whats best on the torrie!
Edited by devilsadvocate, 26 March 2006 - 04:27 PM.
#18
shanegtr
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Posted 26 March 2006 - 05:52 PM
I wasnt holding too many hopes for my cruiser after it was bogged, but after using the cathodic protection system as I posted above, I have been impressed. I just dont belive that the system I got is really up to the task of so much metal to protect, but dont get me wrong it still works. An australian company in QLD (http://www.erps.com.au/index_erps.html) makes a bigger system that would be more suitable, so I'll end up with that one in the cruiser and the smaller unit in the torrie.
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