My post did suggest a professional detailer, and yes there is a difference between detailers thats for sure. A good read of the site I provided will arm one with enough information to ask the correct questions when engaging a detailer.
Depending on the quality of the existing paint I dont personally think I would be going down the Brasso road as I would not be sure what it does to the paint in the long term. It certainly is a cutting agent when used on paint.
My paint is coming on for 13 years old this year and its still pretty good.
Cheers
Herne
Removing Overspray
Started by
tinkers
, Dec 15 2008 08:55 PM
41 replies to this topic
#27
lcgtr1970
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Posted 12 February 2009 - 07:22 PM
if the company is paying get a pro to do it for sure. i have heard that WD-40 and a rub removes spray paint from cars without damaging the cars paintwork. might work....havent tried it tho.
#28
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Posted 20 February 2009 - 08:50 PM
Still havent sorted out the Overspray on my 180SX, I washed it today and man theres overspray all over my windows and all over the body= the cars black so shows up everything. Im going to look for a Clay Bar kit tomorrow, been doing reasearch and many are saying the 3M Clay is much better it comes in a 200 gr tub but costs $55.00!!, The Meguiars kit only has an 85 gram bar, I probably should tell/show the boss the mess of my car but I suspect to be messed about so I'll try sort it myself.The paint is on my car from the morons at work, its CAT YELLOW PAINT as I work for W.A Limestone who repair Diggers/Dozers etc and a bit of painting goes on too, my car is parked right down the front of the yard and the yard is HUGE!! but still my car has overspray all over it! 
might have get a f*cking car cover..
might have get a f*cking car cover..
#29
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Posted 20 February 2009 - 08:55 PM
I have personally found the blue 3m clay to be efficient and very cost effective.
I did see some grey medium grade clay advertised on ebay recently and it was very competitively priced, I have yet to order some and try it. Brand was unstated and I could see any brand visible.
Cheers
Herne
I did see some grey medium grade clay advertised on ebay recently and it was very competitively priced, I have yet to order some and try it. Brand was unstated and I could see any brand visible.
Cheers
Herne
#30
tinkers
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Posted 20 February 2009 - 08:59 PM
Depending on how bad it is, the clay bar will remove most and I have since gone over it again and got more off and this is after the ex panel dude got to it. It takes time and patience which I dont have. LOL
Next wash which will be over the week end so I'll do it again and see if I can get more off.
I used a razor blade and glass cleaner and scraped the paint off the glass.
3rd day back at work and the car is full of dirt and dust. So I'll be buying a decent car cover as well.
Next wash which will be over the week end so I'll do it again and see if I can get more off.
I used a razor blade and glass cleaner and scraped the paint off the glass.
3rd day back at work and the car is full of dirt and dust. So I'll be buying a decent car cover as well.
#31
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Posted 21 February 2009 - 10:02 AM
The only thing that concerns me with car covers is, if the cars dirty when putting the cover on I suspect it'll scratch the shit out of it: there's a Boral Joint accross the road from work and all the dust from sand/rocks etc comes flying over onto all our cars 
ive read a bit on car covers lately and most of the guys over on the Nissan site say a lot of them cause Rust as the Car Cover cant breathe. Sounds plausable?, the best is said to be a SUNLAND PRESTIGE Car Cover as it is a breathable car cover but something like $150.00 a pop,geeze its hard to keep a cars paint looking good, with the harsh Aussie climate and assclowns with paint!........................
ive read a bit on car covers lately and most of the guys over on the Nissan site say a lot of them cause Rust as the Car Cover cant breathe. Sounds plausable?, the best is said to be a SUNLAND PRESTIGE Car Cover as it is a breathable car cover but something like $150.00 a pop,geeze its hard to keep a cars paint looking good, with the harsh Aussie climate and assclowns with paint!........................
#32
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Posted 21 February 2009 - 10:28 AM
Hi tinkers,this is a problem that I have rectified many times in my trade (30 years re-finish exp.). Ls2sshatch was the only correct previous post,(appoligies to all others),. I bielieve this is a job for an exp. painter who does top work,prestige/custom etc. It sounds like the overspray has stuck & fine sanding is the only fix. This should be done using no coarser than P1500,(preferably P2000 or even P2500 ). then a carefull 3 stage buff & polish. ( 1...buff out of sanded profile using correct grade qualty cutters. 2.....finishing glaze to remove buff & swirl marks,also done with a machine & 3..... a Quality hand polish to seal it). This is a normal method of any good paint job,& is quite easy (but takes plenty of time), for an exp.hand.Of coarse the trick is not to remove any more paint than needed. Also this will flatern the profile of your finish , if it is not already, as a previuos post pointed out (ok,he/she was correct also), & give an improvement in apearance,but will hi-light any body imperfections. I would estamate 2-4 days work (a bit hard with-out seeing the job).I would charge $450-$700 (inc.materials) .PM. me & we can talk on the phone if youl like,(I'm too slow at typing) Cheers Paul (X-Melb. now sunshine coast).
#33
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Posted 21 February 2009 - 12:15 PM
Thats a big call Paul but coming from a professional I would expect nothing less.
However having NOT seen the paint nor the problem one has to ask if the paint as it stands is worth spending big money on. I have seen plenty of Toranas where the paint is stuffed to begin with. I have also seen many many fine paint jobs that could easily justify spending the amount required by a pro.
I disagree with you saying the job requires a top painter to rectify, a top painter could easily do the job at hand but so can many professional detailers who specialise in paint correction. if Tinks were in South Australia I would have no problem recommending she visit one of the best detailing shops in Australia where they would fix the problem without doubt.
Sanding the clear coat is harsh especially when there are a number of good quality cutting polishes around, but the job needs to be seen before making that call.
The processes you describe Paul are all good.
What I am saying is there are extremely good detailers around and secondly if Tinks were to persevere by hand (it already sounds like she is winning) then she might just get there and not have to spend hundreds upon hundreds of dollars
Edit: anyway now back out to apply 3 coats of Driven over my freshly prepared bonnet (used Prima products).
Cheers
Herne
However having NOT seen the paint nor the problem one has to ask if the paint as it stands is worth spending big money on. I have seen plenty of Toranas where the paint is stuffed to begin with. I have also seen many many fine paint jobs that could easily justify spending the amount required by a pro.
I disagree with you saying the job requires a top painter to rectify, a top painter could easily do the job at hand but so can many professional detailers who specialise in paint correction. if Tinks were in South Australia I would have no problem recommending she visit one of the best detailing shops in Australia where they would fix the problem without doubt.
Sanding the clear coat is harsh especially when there are a number of good quality cutting polishes around, but the job needs to be seen before making that call.
The processes you describe Paul are all good.
What I am saying is there are extremely good detailers around and secondly if Tinks were to persevere by hand (it already sounds like she is winning) then she might just get there and not have to spend hundreds upon hundreds of dollars
Edit: anyway now back out to apply 3 coats of Driven over my freshly prepared bonnet (used Prima products).
Cheers
Herne
Edited by Herne, 21 February 2009 - 12:19 PM.
#34
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Posted 21 February 2009 - 12:59 PM
Yeh you'r right herne,I was assuming tinks car had a swisho paint job,where-as it could be a daily driver,or tinkers not wanting to spend too much on it. Another method might be to use 3m automotive scotchbright pads. They are color coded,white is the fine one.& are less harsh than sanding,& can be buffed out easily,I've used the white grade (already a bit used )to remove fine overspray from 2-pack & it has not harmed the finish. (not on a very highly finished surface though)... avail. from auto paint suppliers. Good luck tinks,hope you get it sorted.
#35
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Posted 21 February 2009 - 04:09 PM
My opinion all along was it needed a respray due to how bad it was on the rear and sides of the car. That wasnt an option according to the boss who was paying and since he had to fork out for a 2 week old Peugeot to be repainted, I was only getting mine fixed by the ex panel beater. So i'll just plug along as I am and keep taking the reciepts in for anything I buy and the boss will reimburse me.
There are times I wish I was a guy because after all I am just a female so what would I know
even though I have more of a clue than most of the guys at work.
Paul the car is a VX commodore that I have only had a few months, if it was the torana it wouldnt have mattered (as much) because the paint is stuffed on it anyway.
There are times I wish I was a guy because after all I am just a female so what would I know
even though I have more of a clue than most of the guys at work. Paul the car is a VX commodore that I have only had a few months, if it was the torana it wouldnt have mattered (as much) because the paint is stuffed on it anyway.
#36
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Posted 21 February 2009 - 10:06 PM
Well I bought the Meguiares Clay Bar Kit today, $35.00 waited til the sun was almost down so the car was cool(being black doesnt help!) gave one side of the car and the roof a go and was trully amazed at how well this thing works!?: the clay did become VERY dirt pretty quickly even though it was just washed!, I could also see the yellow paint appear in the clay after rubbing.I'll have to finish her off tomorrow to evaluate truly how well its worked?,it has left like a weird clay/wax residue on the paint but I'll be polishing it tomorrow to get rid of this.
Every polish ive used leaves that horrible white chalky look behind( near lights trims etc) and on black paint looks terrible: my brother has this meguiares " yellow wax Polish no 26" that he says leaves no chalky residue but I cant find it anywhere!?, he said he bought it a long time ago from Marlows(geeze I miss Marlows) is there any similar polish like this available??.....................
Every polish ive used leaves that horrible white chalky look behind( near lights trims etc) and on black paint looks terrible: my brother has this meguiares " yellow wax Polish no 26" that he says leaves no chalky residue but I cant find it anywhere!?, he said he bought it a long time ago from Marlows(geeze I miss Marlows) is there any similar polish like this available??.....................
#37
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Posted 21 February 2009 - 10:24 PM
Well I bought the Meguiares Clay Bar Kit today, $35.00 waited til the sun was almost down so the car was cool(being black doesnt help!) gave one side of the car and the roof a go and was trully amazed at how well this thing works!?: the clay did become VERY dirt pretty quickly even though it was just washed!, I could also see the yellow paint appear in the clay after rubbing.I'll have to finish her off tomorrow to evaluate truly how well its worked?,it has left like a weird clay/wax residue on the paint but I'll be polishing it tomorrow to get rid of this.
Every polish ive used leaves that horrible white chalky look behind( near lights trims etc) and on black paint looks terrible: my brother has this meguiares " yellow wax Polish no 26" that he says leaves no chalky residue but I cant find it anywhere!?, he said he bought it a long time ago from Marlows(geeze I miss Marlows) is there any similar polish like this available??.....................
I hope you used a QD (quick detailer spray) to lubricate the paint before using the clay bar, use while wet
Remember to fold it in (knead it) on itself when it gets dirty and you have a fresh looking bar. Not sure what the clay/wax residue is, I do not get that, I dry as I go with a m/f cloth. There are plenty of good quality polishes out there but most/many are not sold by stores like Supercheap. Go to the detailers sites and check whats available, you will be amazed but they will be happy to recommend and easy to use one for a novice.Cheers
Herne
#38
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Posted 21 February 2009 - 11:01 PM
The kit has the spray included in it.
#39
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Posted 21 February 2009 - 11:42 PM
Herne, I used plenty! of the detailers spray supplied with the kit and frequently kneeded the clay but yeh theres some sort of residue left behind!? it looks like a waxy residue even though I rinsed off the car where I had used the Clay Bar.................................
#40
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Posted 22 February 2009 - 12:23 AM
Herne, I used plenty! of the detailers spray supplied with the kit and frequently kneeded the clay but yeh theres some sort of residue left behind!? it looks like a waxy residue even though I rinsed off the car where I had used the Clay Bar.................................
The only thing I can think of is the brand, I use 3M.
Herne
#41
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Posted 22 February 2009 - 01:19 PM
For those that may be interested here is the grey medium cut clay I was speaking of earlier.
For 200 grams its a damn good price but I cant speak for its quality.
http://cgi.ebay.com....rts_Accessories
EDIT** I just ordered a bar to see how it goes.
Cheers
Herne
For 200 grams its a damn good price but I cant speak for its quality.
http://cgi.ebay.com....rts_Accessories
EDIT** I just ordered a bar to see how it goes.
Cheers
Herne
Edited by Herne, 22 February 2009 - 01:23 PM.
#42
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Posted 22 February 2009 - 10:07 PM
Well I finished the 180SX today, Clay Bar took ages but was amazed at how well it works!? after that I was looking for a Meguiars YELLOW WAX 26 as it doesnt leave chalky residue as most polishes do (not a good look on black paint!) I couldnt get it so the other one that didnt leave white residue was meguairs TECH WAX 2.0 but jesus christ the cheapest I could find it was $45.00 
so I had no choice and had to pay up. car looked fantastic but after an hour or so the paint had shit all over it. That WAX seems to suck dirt onto the car like a vaccum??, I know being black it'll get dirty super quick but I swear this $$$ stuff attracts dirt: ive used so many diferent types= PERMA SHIELD,MOTHERS,AUTO GLYM etc this one was the most expensive yet the worst ive found, I mean it polishes unbelievably well but for some reason attracts dust/dirt more than anything ive used before anyone else used this one?..........................
so I had no choice and had to pay up. car looked fantastic but after an hour or so the paint had shit all over it. That WAX seems to suck dirt onto the car like a vaccum??, I know being black it'll get dirty super quick but I swear this $$$ stuff attracts dirt: ive used so many diferent types= PERMA SHIELD,MOTHERS,AUTO GLYM etc this one was the most expensive yet the worst ive found, I mean it polishes unbelievably well but for some reason attracts dust/dirt more than anything ive used before anyone else used this one?..........................
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