26 replies to this topic

[GML-31]

make sure you put new trailing arm bushes in as well otherwise the old ones can flex a lot and you will still rub even on the inner guard shockies I would go Koni adjustables and you need to work out how many people you want to carry to sort out rear springs

[makka]

go with IRS commodore springs

[Evan]

i run standard height king springs in the rear and 1200 pound king lowered in the front .

Thats with cut guards and 295's 50 15 on 10 inch rims on the rear.

I would go lowered in the back but the 50 profile scrubs the flares.

You could run lowered if you spend the extra $$ on some 45 profile. or be realistic and just go with a 265. lol

Shocks wise i run koni adjustable on all 4 corners which are good. I have herd good reports about the bilsteins too.

Evan.

[makka]

I run Camira springs which are lower and softer than IRS Commo springs, MRLXSS runs IRS springs in the back of his Flared Hatch with 15x10's on the back

[76lxhatch]

Be careful, the A9X spring will have a higher ride height due to the dropped stub axle, if you have HQ stubs you want them otherwise you don't

[76lxhatch]

Yes the HQ stub will sit the front end about an inch to 30mm (I think, somewhere around there) lower. Depends on how low you want to go I guess, getting a standard height spring instead of low or low instead of super low will probably sort this easy enough.

[tsn007]

Hi,
I am also doing this spring and shock change


I have found that you can get king springs for $235 front & rear from onlineperformance on ebay
and KYB shocks for $129.00 front and $129 for rear from ringwood auto parts or ultracheapauto both on ebay

I think the KYB are slightly better than the Monroe's at $235 fron and rear


If you want Koni's try Proven susupension they are the distributors at $189.00 rear

Or wholesale suspension for a price
cheers

[76lxhatch]

Make sure you get a length for the rear shocks before buying, they need to be specific to your springs to hold them captive. I know that Monroe lists the same part number for different lengths so you can't always go by that either. I'm using springs in excess of 100mm shorter than stock in the rear of mine to keep the springs captive. The measurement is normally taken from the centre of the bottom eye to the base of the top spindle.

[76lxhatch]

Actually come to think of it I have a pair of Monroe GT Gas suitable for the rear 520mm in length which will keep quite a low spring captive. Bought them last year for $200 from Repco but never used because I found something I liked better. Yours for a reasonable offer

[MRLXSS]

I run IRS commodore springs in mine, with 15x10's and the guards cut and i dont have scrubbing issue anymore! (Not i have scrub issues on the front flares with the 225's, but thats just a spring stiffness issue)

I need to find some shorter length Shocks to hold my springs in better, but so far so good!

[76lxhatch]

You went to lower springs and that stopped the scrubbing? Are they stiffening it so that the diff doesn't move around as much...?

[76lxhatch]

I tried extending my bump stops and it did nothing, I reckon they were missing altogether on certain angles. The shocks I have in the rear now have removable shrouds so at some stage I'm going to try putting a soft bump stop over the bright shaft on the shock, that can't miss!

[MRLXSS]

You went to lower springs and that stopped the scrubbing? Are they stiffening it so that the diff doesn't move around as much...?

haha, Yeah. The IRS springs are a progressive rate spring... So they are soft and cushy on small bumps, but on a big bump they are nice and stiff. So they work really well at stopping the scrubs!

I haven't tried cruising with mates in the back yet, but i reckon it would be pretty safe now.

I know LXCHEV also runs IRS springs in his beast, and with cut guards etc he always has a loaded up car, and as far as i know doesnt scrub.

[76lxhatch]

Yeah that's the way I did it too but no joy. The only time it rubs is when the diff tilts on a big sideways angle (e.g. angle entry into driveways) or through a big bump when cornering hard at high speed (won't do it in a straight line) which is what makes me think its missing the stops. I know what you're saying about the top shock mounts which is why I thought a soft bump stop, maybe closed cell foam or something? The tyre only barely touches at full compression so it just needs to damp the suspension a little so it doesn't travel so far. Stiffer springs would probably do the trick but they're already bone-jarring and I can't remove any more metal from the guards. If the roads around here were better it probably wouldn't be necessary!

Anyway its all ongoing development and its come a long way, I'm sure I'll get that last little niggling bit fixed. Sorry for the thread steal rookie, hopefully somewhat on topic