Hi all,
My freshened 383 Chev is nearly ready for me to pickup (can't wait much longer)..
Once it's back in the Torrie and running, how many km's do I need to clock up before dyno-tuning and drag racing?
Thoughts? Past experiences?
Cheers.
Fresh Engine - How Soon Can I Race??
Started by
LXCHEV
, Mar 07 2006 04:14 PM
30 replies to this topic
#1
LXCHEV
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 04:14 PM
#2
LXCHEV
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 04:16 PM
Oh by the way I should add - we're talking new everything - fresh hone job on the bores, brand new pistons, rings, bearings, the lot.
#3
tinkers
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 04:27 PM
I was told 1000kms
that way it gives all the gremlins time to be sorted
that way it gives all the gremlins time to be sorted
#4
_Keithy's_UC_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 05:07 PM
My engineer told me that an oil change at 1000kms, an oil change at 2000kms and racing at 2500kms....
#5
_mra9x_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 05:09 PM
last engine i had built engine builder told me to do 500 k`s drop the oil and replace do another 500 and then get it tuned etc then go racing 
#6
Evan
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 05:39 PM
ive herd from a few pple that you should go hard after a few hours as it beds in the rings and will prevernt scoring in the bores and stuff.
dont sound good 2 me but ive herd it from a few people.
Evan
dont sound good 2 me but ive herd it from a few people.
Evan
#7
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 05:41 PM
if you get the motor run in on an engine dyno you should be able to go racing fairly early really. 500-1000 klicks.
#8
_ChiaLX_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 05:44 PM
Evan i have heard the same, something like " If you want it to go hard give it hell from the start"
I know 1 mechanic who did this with his own rebuild ( set the tyres alight straight after it was rebuilt) and the motor was good for at least 10 years.
I know my current engine builder would kick my butt if i even mentioned doing that.
So I guess every one has there own ideas.
Peresonally i think at least 1000 k's and frequent oil change is a better option.
I know 1 mechanic who did this with his own rebuild ( set the tyres alight straight after it was rebuilt) and the motor was good for at least 10 years.
I know my current engine builder would kick my butt if i even mentioned doing that.
So I guess every one has there own ideas.
Peresonally i think at least 1000 k's and frequent oil change is a better option.
#9
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 05:55 PM
I'd say you would be right to race after about March 20. 
#10
_coupe202_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 06:10 PM
when my engine was built it was dynoed and all i did put in the car and race it.
everyone got their own way of running in an engine. its around the 500 to 1000 klm mark before giving it a hard time.
everyone got their own way of running in an engine. its around the 500 to 1000 klm mark before giving it a hard time.
#11
_82911_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 07:57 PM
Run the cam in...
Let the engine heat soak a couple of times.
Check all fasteners are good and tight (no leaks).
Run the car up a long incline the longer the better...let load in 1 gear higher than normal (not labouring) just loaded more than normal. punctuate this with........... (the ocasional drop it back a gear and floor it)!!
Few good stabs of the throttle on the way home...after say a 20 minute drive like this it is ready for redline.
These days the rings will seat within 10mins of initial fire up if the correct grit was used on the hone.
If the rings haven't seated by then, they aren't ever going to seat!
Ready to race!!!!
Cheers Greg..
Let the engine heat soak a couple of times.
Check all fasteners are good and tight (no leaks).
Run the car up a long incline the longer the better...let load in 1 gear higher than normal (not labouring) just loaded more than normal. punctuate this with........... (the ocasional drop it back a gear and floor it)!!
Few good stabs of the throttle on the way home...after say a 20 minute drive like this it is ready for redline.
These days the rings will seat within 10mins of initial fire up if the correct grit was used on the hone.
If the rings haven't seated by then, they aren't ever going to seat!
Ready to race!!!!
Cheers Greg..
#12
_Herne_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 08:26 PM
Dunno what the problem here is, You wanna go racing fine, but dont expect to do it on one engine. if you drive hard and I say IF then expect plenty of engine rebuilds.
Herne
Herne
#13
LS1LX
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 08:30 PM
Run the cam in for 20 minutes, dump the oil and go racing.
I use to believe in 1000kms etc, then realised these top fuelers, they cant run 1000kms to run an engine in, there engines get rebuilt every meeting, just break the cam in and go racing.
I use to believe in 1000kms etc, then realised these top fuelers, they cant run 1000kms to run an engine in, there engines get rebuilt every meeting, just break the cam in and go racing.
#14
_Keithy's_UC_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 08:53 PM
Keep in mind drag motors are built to be raced for all of 7seconds... Street motors are built to be daily driven!
#15
WhiteA9XS
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 09:10 PM
1972 a road trip from melbourne to bathurst ..
2002 half an hour on a dyno ..
...
2002 half an hour on a dyno ..
...
#16
racean69
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 09:16 PM
82911's advice sounds like it has merit.
My 2c's.
My 2c's.
#17
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 09:27 PM
I personally would have it run in on the dyno, but each to their own.
#18
lakeside
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 09:59 PM
out the driveway
#19
Ferg
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 10:55 PM
Back in 60s 70s you would see plenty of cars with signs on back "Running in please pass" 
but we havent got time for that shit anymore so proly put "Running out try an pass" will do 
as Lakeside said "Out the driveway" and if its nogood REBUILDIT.
but we havent got time for that shit anymore so proly put "Running out try an pass" will do as Lakeside said "Out the driveway" and if its nogood REBUILDIT.
#20
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 11:06 PM
Yep a few mixed responses. I'm pretty much going with what 82911 said. I've spoken with a few engine builder's and the general consensus is that these days, the quality of the engine parts & honing machines has improved so much that there isn't really a need for long trips and lots of km's to break engines in. The first 20 minutes or so is the critical part, but after that it seems fine to give the engine a fair bit of stick (short of thrashing it).
The more people with real tough cars I speak to have all been saying the same thing - break the cam in, drive it around a little bit and go for it! If you break an engine in relatively hard, it will never have ring problems, oil problems etc and will make more power (assuming of course the engine has been built right to start with).
There was a link posted up not long back in another thread talking about this too. I babied my engine so much the first time around and look what happened, so this time, I'm gonna do it much harder.
Chopper - I will see you at Heathcote on the 18th! I'll surely have at least 500km's on the clock by then, plus the trip to Heathcote itself.
If only I had my damn engine back!!!!!! Timelines are oh so cruel.....
The more people with real tough cars I speak to have all been saying the same thing - break the cam in, drive it around a little bit and go for it! If you break an engine in relatively hard, it will never have ring problems, oil problems etc and will make more power (assuming of course the engine has been built right to start with).
There was a link posted up not long back in another thread talking about this too. I babied my engine so much the first time around and look what happened, so this time, I'm gonna do it much harder.
Chopper - I will see you at Heathcote on the 18th! I'll surely have at least 500km's on the clock by then, plus the trip to Heathcote itself.
If only I had my damn engine back!!!!!! Timelines are oh so cruel.....
#21
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Posted 07 March 2006 - 11:14 PM
10 days to go so better work nights ive got same problem 
ive got same problem
#22
_LX406_
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Posted 08 March 2006 - 08:27 AM
ENGINE DYNO!!!!! Costs about $400 for the day. I can give you his number if you like.
#23
_355lxss_
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Posted 08 March 2006 - 08:31 AM
agree with lx406. My preference would be to get it engine dyno'd for a couple of reasons.
You'll know exactly how much hp/tq its making at the flywheel, any gremlins that pop up will be sorted out, and it will be tuned for max hp and ready to drop in the car to go racing. The only down side is that it's expensive but definitely worth the money.
Each to their own
You'll know exactly how much hp/tq its making at the flywheel, any gremlins that pop up will be sorted out, and it will be tuned for max hp and ready to drop in the car to go racing. The only down side is that it's expensive but definitely worth the money.
Each to their own
Edited by 355lxss, 08 March 2006 - 08:33 AM.
#24
_MAWLER_
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Posted 08 March 2006 - 03:32 PM
When I took my car in for its first dyno I told my guy it only had 800k's on the clock so don't break anything. He didn't take it above 4000RPM. So I don't know. I have a bit of a feeling its more of an old wives tale in modern day life about taking a long time to run a motor in but the tale was there for a reason I guess.
I don't think you'll have any problems racing it gently at 500km's old, so about 16 second 1/4s should be fine
Peace,
I don't think you'll have any problems racing it gently at 500km's old, so about 16 second 1/4s should be fine
Peace,
#25
_Torana482HP_
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Posted 08 March 2006 - 03:51 PM
15 mins to bed in the cam, then drive it hard as bguck.
ive read it in a couple of recent articles,
as was already said, the engine parts are heaps better these days and they dont need running in, its not the 70's anymore. only the cam needs to be properly seated and 15 mins on an engine dyno at 2500 rpm does the trick.
when my engine is built im gonna take it to Advanced Engine Dynamics in Bendigo to have it put on the engine dyno for a run in and to max out the HP. let them do it all so i know its all set to put in the car and go pop some tires
ive read it in a couple of recent articles,
as was already said, the engine parts are heaps better these days and they dont need running in, its not the 70's anymore. only the cam needs to be properly seated and 15 mins on an engine dyno at 2500 rpm does the trick.
when my engine is built im gonna take it to Advanced Engine Dynamics in Bendigo to have it put on the engine dyno for a run in and to max out the HP. let them do it all so i know its all set to put in the car and go pop some tires
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