Benifits of a UC front end
#1 _kolman_
Posted 07 March 2006 - 08:28 PM
I have heard of a lot of people converting to a UC front end. Basically I would like to know what the bennifits of this is and if it is a worth while conversion.
Cheers
#2 _Keithy's_UC_
Posted 07 March 2006 - 08:44 PM
Smoother ride, better handling! And cornering stability!
#3
Posted 07 March 2006 - 08:52 PM
Does it just go something along these lines?
LH - Satisfactory hangling
LX - Basic RTS, better than satisfactory handling
UC - Revised RTS, refined handling
#4 _CHOPPER_
Posted 07 March 2006 - 09:19 PM
#1 Location of top control arm ( two different heights )
#2 Offset top control arm.
#3 Solid mounted rack.
#1 There is enough room to re-drill any LH - UC crossmember so the top arm can be at either upper or lower position. Pics have been posted on these forums before and it's the easiset way to demonstrate the difference.
#2 This allows more positive castor to be dialed in. This can be done with any LH - UC front end by a simple wheel alignment.
#3 Make up some brass rack bushes for your LH/LX. It takes 20 minutes with a lathe. You then have a solid mounted rack.
There are some other minor changes, none of which you would probably notice under normal driving conditions. Overall, there is no advantage in changing from an LH to a UC front end. This is because there are cheaper, quicker and easier ways to make your LH out handle a UC. It's not that hard.
#5
Posted 08 March 2006 - 02:03 PM
Almost,Does it just go something along these lines?
LH - Satisfactory hangling
LX - Basic RTS, better than satisfactory handling
UC - Revised RTS, refined handling
RTS Phase 1 came in during the LX years, my LX was manufactured in Sept. 1976 and didn't feature RTS.
Phase 2 RTS is used on the UC I don't know if any LX came out with Phase 2 RTS.
s
Edited by StephenSLR, 08 March 2006 - 02:04 PM.
#6 _Torana482HP_
Posted 08 March 2006 - 04:02 PM
These days it's easy to mofify an LH front end to out perform a stock UC front end. There are three main differences.
#1 Location of top control arm ( two different heights )
#2 Offset top control arm.
#3 Solid mounted rack.
#1 There is enough room to re-drill any LH - UC crossmember so the top arm can be at either upper or lower position. Pics have been posted on these forums before and it's the easiset way to demonstrate the difference.
#2 This allows more positive castor to be dialed in. This can be done with any LH - UC front end by a simple wheel alignment.
#3 Make up some brass rack bushes for your LH/LX. It takes 20 minutes with a lathe. You then have a solid mounted rack.
This sounds very interesting chopper,
but im a dumbass when it comes to anywhere in a 500mm radius of the brakes.
Upgrade #3 sounds easy enough, but can you privide some pics for upgrades #1+2?
#1 - where to redrill?
#2 - do i just go get a wheel alignment and tell em to offset the top control arm?
Thanks mate.
#7 _CHOPPER_
Posted 08 March 2006 - 05:24 PM
#8
Posted 09 March 2006 - 10:11 AM
Chopper, whereas I agree that this is one way in which more caster can be dialled in on an LH/LX front end, it also shifts the pivot axis of the upper arm a fair way away from where it is designed to be. Do you think that this would be a significant compromise?For option 2, get the guy to set it to UC specs.
The UC upper arms would be much better as the pivot axis stays where it should be, but they obviously require the dropping of the crossmember to fit, which is a PITA job.
#9 _CHOPPER_
Posted 09 March 2006 - 06:59 PM
Edited by CHOPPER, 09 March 2006 - 07:00 PM.
#10 _Torana482HP_
Posted 09 March 2006 - 07:00 PM
also chopper what are some benefits of a solid mounted rack and the control arm changes?
Cheers Big Ears.
(sorry i had to say it, lol)
#11 _CHOPPER_
Posted 09 March 2006 - 07:31 PM
#12
Posted 09 March 2006 - 07:54 PM
#13 _CHOPPER_
Posted 09 March 2006 - 07:58 PM
#14
Posted 10 March 2006 - 04:09 PM
Geez, you must be right Chop - I've never played with Toranas in my life ..........Judging by that statement, you have no idea on how little it takes to alter the castor from LH to UC specs.
Have you played with geometry?????
#15 _Eddie_
Posted 10 March 2006 - 04:41 PM
What angles of camber do you run or is it different with every vehicle coz of different springs, wheels etc?
Also, do you get better handling when the wheels are cambered inwards?
#16 _CHOPPER_
Posted 10 March 2006 - 06:20 PM
#17 _SSHatch_
Posted 10 March 2006 - 08:00 PM
#18 _UCV80_
Posted 11 March 2006 - 09:31 AM
cheers,
nathan
#19 _CHOPPER_
Posted 11 March 2006 - 12:20 PM
#20 _UCV80_
Posted 11 March 2006 - 01:46 PM
will they charge more do put the shims in or would it be included in the price, as it is part of alligning the wheels,
Thanx Chopper,
nathan
#21
Posted 11 March 2006 - 02:09 PM
The guy at CSM in caloundra sells stainless ones but it is good to know you can get the others from repco.
The last UC front end I pulled apart had about 6 x 1/8" and 2 x 1/16" spacers but it will depend on the luck of the draw to a certain extent.
M@
#22 _CHOPPER_
Posted 11 March 2006 - 08:28 PM
#23 _HB1200_
Posted 15 March 2006 - 09:03 PM
-UC lower arm has thicker tie rod stop on front (durability).
-UC lower arm has larger hole in center (easier to remove shock absorber).
I was also told that the UC rack had a different (better) ratio.
#24 _CHOPPER_
Posted 15 March 2006 - 09:16 PM
#1 I've never seen one wear out.I've put a UC x-member in my LH and have notice the following additional differences to the std LH item:
#1 UC lower arm has thicker tie rod stop on front (durability).
#2 UC lower arm has larger hole in center (easier to remove shock absorber).
#3 I was also told that the UC rack had a different (better) ratio.
#2 You can do that to an LH lower arm with a file or small grinder.
#3 All prefference. Do you want the steering lighter or heavier?
#25
Posted 15 March 2006 - 11:13 PM
M@
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