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LS1 GenIII

Started by _Herne_ , Jan 30 2009 11:18 AM

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#26 MRLXSS

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 07:51 AM

Herne... Mate.. DONT change the ECU.

the factory LS1 computer is the most amazing bit of trickery there is. Find someone with LS1 edit and get them to do the work.

The main reason i say this is because the ECU interacts with so many other items in the modern cars that you will loose a massive ammount of other "features" that you dont even think about now or will have to spend a motza getting them to re-interface with whatever you choose.

Believe me the Stock LS1 computer is unreal. I have a friend with a VYSS Single turbo - LS1 edit (fuel pumps etc.. it was a GOOD install) who had used LS1 edit to get it to work all correctly. 500 RWHP no hassle, Drivable every day.



Tiny is spot on!

USE THE ORIGINAL COMPUTER!

1. Its Better
2. Its Cheaper
3. Its neater
4. Its less things to go wrong.
5. Its BETTER!

You can get a mail order Mafless tune for them, and with an OTR, Exhaust and extractors. You will have 300hp at the wheels!

My car just has OTR, Cat Back Exhaust and a Mafless tune. And it has over 400hp at the motor! The guy that tuned my car, Has 3" full system, extractors etc, OTR, Mafless tune, better valve springs and 4.11 diff geras. And he has run an 11.77 down the qtr! He drives this thing to work everyday and gets 13-14L/100km's.

Check out the LS1 forums, i learnt so much over there by just browsing... Words of warning though... Search and search before you ask... Because they have more keyboard warriors than we do that love telling you it a pointless post of theirs how pointless your post is and to search! LOL

#27 _Herne_

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 09:30 AM

Tiny is spot on!

Check out the LS1 forums, i learnt so much over there by just browsing... Words of warning though... Search and search before you ask... Because they have more keyboard warriors than we do that love telling you it a pointless post of theirs how pointless your post is and to search! LOL


Hi Matt,

That's good advice re keyboard warriors I will lurk there rather than type :)

Struggler, changing the diff ratio sounds familiar (have yet to have my 3.55's fitted in the Torry but still plan to one day)
Does anyone know what diff the VYSS 6 speed manual has from the factory?

From the questions I have asked and what I have read the general consensus is decent cold air (not growler) plus extractors - the car has the 3" cat back already done. Anything else so far is speculation and needs further research and advice sought. I am leaning towards Strugglers advice because my Torry is not as lively as I would like it and I know my diff gears need changing :)
Danny was all for a larger throttle body around 100mm but again opinions differ on this. Plugs and leads will be replaced regardless.

Cheers
Herne

#28 MRLXSS

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 10:37 AM

Pretty sure standard Manual diffs are 3.46 ratio. Most will up them to 3.89 i think...

You will really notice the keyboard warriors when you start searching! LOL.

#29 _Herne_

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 10:53 AM

Pretty sure standard Manual diffs are 3.46 ratio. Most will up them to 3.89 i think...

You will really notice the keyboard warriors when you start searching! LOL.


Cheers mate :)

Herne

#30 _the gts_

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 12:48 PM

If your gonna put a big cam in I would probably go 4.11's

Anyone know if the standard computer supports wide band o2?

#31 Tiny

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 02:55 PM

I actually heard that changing things like Throttle Body, Pipes and CAI WITHOUT doing any tuning is all but useless on an LS1 as the computer "unlearns" the mods.... I cant confirm this though!

I'd definitely say do all of the above mods especially those youve noted including the diff ratio, and THEN get it tuned to maximise the performance gains for the $$ spent.

OH.. and the LS1 has a "Cat Saver" map... What happens is if it detects mammothly hard driving conditions it switched to a "safe" fuel/ignition map to cool the exhaust gasses and ensure that you dont melt the cats!
This absolutely DESTROYS power and i've heard of cars getting stuck in that map and the computer not releasing it back to the normal maps. I'm sure the top level tuners will know how to disable or tinker with this feature to gain the most out of the combo!

Again my suggestion is to pick the brains of some of the proven performers and see what they reccomend/quote (Sam's performance is the one that always springs to my mind.. but ask them all!)

Cheers

#32 _Herne_

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 04:02 PM

Agreed Tiny, it would certainly need some sort of tune job to alter the factory settings, you would not get far without doing that. I was reading Sams tuning guides 1, 2 and 3 and he mentions the Cat saver although from memory he used different terminology to explain the same thing :). Sams Performance certainly appears to know the ropes but they like others using LS1 edit properly are not at all cheap.

Cheers
Herne

#33 Redslur

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 05:49 PM

Marcus at Gentech in Mitchell is the man Al. Don't know if it is Danny's thing mate..

LS1 edit/Mafless tune, ORCAI and exhaust will give you 240RWKW to start. This livens the things up very nicely!

#34 _Herne_

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 08:57 PM

Marcus at Gentech in Mitchell is the man Al. Don't know if it is Danny's thing mate..

LS1 edit/Mafless tune, ORCAI and exhaust will give you 240RWKW to start. This livens the things up very nicely!


Thanks Gerry, I agree Danny can fit the parts but cant get the tune right, for starters he doesnt have LS1 edit. hes good with other tunes though :)
Last dyno run Matt did he got a nice 200 rwkW and he is hoping for around 250rwkW when completed.

We will find out more next week when we start ringing the guru's and getting actual parts prices.

Cheers
Herne

#35 _Herne_

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 09:39 PM

I got Matt to read all the comments here so far and also gave him the addy for Sams Performance LS1 stage 1 through 3 which he also read.

Matts been busy :) After he had finished reading he checked out some web sites for approx prices and naturally he will learn more next week when he starts phoning around for advice as well as prices.

Thanks guys, keep the comments coming if you have any, its all good.

Herne

#36 Rockoz

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 10:13 PM

Get him to check out Oztrack Tuning. Maybe he would be interested in buying the EFI Live Tuning tool. Think its about $850 with 2 licenses. Theres some tutorials for learning on the web site and I think access to a forum for help. Was thinking about buying one myself to have a play with.

#37 _moot_

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Posted 01 February 2009 - 06:00 AM

Agreed Tiny, it would certainly need some sort of tune job to alter the factory settings, you would not get far without doing that. I was reading Sams tuning guides 1, 2 and 3 and he mentions the Cat saver although from memory he used different terminology to explain the same thing :). Sams Performance certainly appears to know the ropes but they like others using LS1 edit properly are not at all cheap.

Cheers
Herne


you get what you pay for.i like quality,and doing it right the first time.besides a basic tune will pay for itself in fuel in 12 months :)

#38 _Herne_

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Posted 01 February 2009 - 07:46 AM

You must use a bloody lot of fuel moot.

Sams Performance tunes run from around $1000 to the $1500 mark. No one I know of saves that amount per year on fuel mate.....

Herne

Edited by Herne, 01 February 2009 - 07:46 AM.

#39 _moot_

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Posted 01 February 2009 - 08:05 AM

$990 tune,filter,airbox mod.

cv8z fuel usage from 13.3l to 9.5l (on the way home ,gto averages 10.5 with cam and 3.9's)

save 3l (guesstimate) per 100k's @1.50p/l= save $4.50 per 100km--$45 bucks per 1000k's----25k per year=$1125

$135 saving the first year including the tune...... :)


my ute does 100k a year :)

Edited by moot, 01 February 2009 - 08:06 AM.

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