
Internal spring compressor
#1
_CHOPPER_
Posted 12 March 2006 - 01:09 AM
#2
_TORANASS_
Posted 12 March 2006 - 01:41 AM
As for cost id say fuk all at pick a part or even any local wreckers..
Hope this helps
John
Edited by TORANASS, 12 March 2006 - 01:42 AM.
#3
_CHOPPER_
Posted 12 March 2006 - 01:51 AM
#4
_TORANASS_
Posted 12 March 2006 - 03:42 AM
Iv had heavy duty standerd size springs befor(pedders) wich i got for my old hatch and they were a tight fit but i could still get them into were they sit..
Why are you running springs so tall chop? Maybe you could use normal spring tools to compress the spring enough to sit in place then use my method?
John
#5
_CHOPPER_
Posted 12 March 2006 - 09:49 AM
#6
_CHOPPER_
Posted 12 March 2006 - 01:43 PM
#7
Posted 12 March 2006 - 04:43 PM
I cann see that costing more that $15
#8
_CHOPPER_
Posted 12 March 2006 - 04:52 PM
#9
Posted 12 March 2006 - 05:00 PM
Hope this helps.
RACV MAN
#10
_CHOPPER_
Posted 12 March 2006 - 05:05 PM
#11
Posted 12 March 2006 - 07:43 PM
Hope I'm not too late!
RACV MAN
#12
_The Baron_
Posted 13 March 2006 - 12:10 AM
I shall be at the same cross roads in the next week or two.
Yes it would be easier if the x member was weighed down by a car and engine but mine is out on the garage floor. So a jack under the lower arm will not work.
An external spring compressor has no hope. I did use the external compressor during disassembly by passing it through the lower arm shocker hole to gently release the spring but it got to a point were the arm need to swing a long way down to release the spring. The compressor threaded rod interfered with this and I removed it before kicking out the spring. Fugging long spring.
The way I see it, due to the long length of the stock spring and that the spring appears to need to be compressed a little to allow the lower arm to be swung up to capture the bottom of the spring. It is more practicle to compress the spring through the top shocker hole. I just need to make the plate that inserts through the lower part of the spring, it will need to allow for the coil angles for it to engage into.
I have two compressor types, one has a single finger claw, the other a two finger claw. The second one is bulky and a prick to use but has a very thick threaded rod.
Both threads fit through the top shocker shaft hole.
The point is that a threaded rod through the top hole will have tremendous energy stored when the spring is compressed. Someone can be damaged beyond repair if your head is in the wrong place at the wrong time!
Be careful please.
#13
Posted 13 March 2006 - 08:31 AM
#14
_CHOPPER_
Posted 13 March 2006 - 11:27 AM
#15
Posted 13 March 2006 - 05:27 PM
I actually costed up making a set of these a few months back. I was going to use grade 8 - 1/2" UNF threaded rod as the springs will have a huge force on them when compressed, so I didn't want to use carbon steel bukka rod.
1m of Grade8 threaded rod is $90 on it's own - I think you will find that is one of the reasons why the tool is worth that much.
M@
#16
_CHOPPER_
Posted 13 March 2006 - 06:24 PM
#17
Posted 14 March 2006 - 02:09 PM
The Internal Spring Compressors are made by Ryan Tools in Melbourne and I can get for $95 trade price - No stock in Bris so they would take me a week or so to get from Melboune anyway. My supplier is Roadking auto parts in Brissy.
They are manufactured by :
Ryans Tools and Accessories
321 Arden St Kensington 3031
Ph:(03) 9376 7411
Fax: (03) 9376 2755
Tool part number is RT4025.
The pic in the catalog looks like they will do the job - would be good to physically try one before buying if you can to make sure it will fit through the shock absorber hole in the lower arm.
M@
Edited by Toranamat69, 14 March 2006 - 02:10 PM.
#18
_CHOPPER_
Posted 14 March 2006 - 06:07 PM
#19
_The Baron_
Posted 15 March 2006 - 09:06 PM
Appears to be a threaded rod with nuts top and bottom, a plate to capture the spring with grooves and a ball arrangement to allow for the fact the plate will sit on an angle in the spring coils.
I will be using this tool once or twice, maybe cheaper to make than buying a special trade quality tool. Can't be that hard.
#20
_CHOPPER_
Posted 15 March 2006 - 09:17 PM
#21
_HB1200_
Posted 16 March 2006 - 05:19 PM
-Litchfield ref. E1917
-GMH tool No. 3A17
#22
_CHOPPER_
Posted 16 March 2006 - 07:59 PM
#23
_CHOPPER_
Posted 23 March 2006 - 09:04 PM
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