589 replies to this topic

[yel327]

What I did above was how we used to put VN-VS engines into a Holden. Allowed the Delco ECU to have its oil pressure sensor and keep the original sender for the dash. The T used in that photo is not the same thing but does the same job. Back when a red 6 was a $10 piece of scrap these brass fittings were free, looks like they are worth money now (if you believe Ebay):

 

https://www.ebay.com...tm/183770967141

[76lxhatch]

^ Umm, wow. Don't think I could bring myself to pay prices like that even if it was perfect for the job.

 

Heath, the one for the ECU is a combined temp and pressure sender. Probably could have used that with the gauge too but I'm always wary of introducing noise so I just took the easy way out.

[yel327]

Agree! I’d find it hard to pay more than $50 for a whole red 6!

[76lxhatch]

I have three little boxes of the same size that need mounting in the same spot. 3D printed some spacers so I can stack them up.

 

 

Also finally decided it was time to start cutting wiring to length and fitting connectors. No more photos but the engine loom only needs one or two more and it's ready to test before wrapping.

 

Was going to modify the cold air tray with a funny shaped bulge to keep it minimal and maintain the original mounts. But decided that would look weird so spent a little time shuffling to the best possible position with the scoop removed, and took some measurements.

 

Re-made the standoffs again, taller and in stainless this time.

[76lxhatch]

Made up a new piece so it will effectively become a drop base to provide space for everything.

 

Well, almost.

 

Mounted so that the filter element and seal edge are in the same position as before.

 

 

Heaps of room.

[76lxhatch]

The next piece of the puzzle is actually connecting it to the throttle body, and I wanted a reasonable transition. Trying to get better with the aluminium casting, 3D printed a basic part with some extra for machining.

 

So far so good.

 

Spoke too soon as I couldn't get the sand in the centre to stay in place. Adapt on the fly.

 

The casting still has some porosity but a vast improvement over some other attempts. It was also a mess on the bottom so good thing I left extra for machining, but it cleaned up pretty well. Found an o-ring that will sit in the groove around the throttle body and machined the adapter to fit - probably unnecessary but seems to work well.

 

Transferred the hole to the filter base and used a bunch of tiny M3 stainless hardware.

 

Last thing I need to do is make a bracket for a filter retaining stud, then some seam sealer and paint.

[Bigfella237]

I reckon you been watching Ian Roussel on Full Custom Garage... that looks suspiciously like the dog's bowl to me!

 

 

Always love these updates, it's a credit to you for so much DIYing!

 

One thing before you paint... have you made any provision to drain the rain?

Edited by Bigfella237, 17 September 2023 - 04:44 PM.

[76lxhatch]

Most of it was formed with the shrinker-stretcher hence the marks, so I figure its a pie plate. Just recently bought a mini english wheel which kind of works, helped to smooth it out a bit at least.

 

I assume that not much water gets inside the scoop, and/or what does just goes past the air cleaner and down to the front where it leaks out past the piping. It has certainly seen plenty of rain in the past and I've never noticed any water in the air cleaner, at least now it might sit around the outside instead of going into the engine! The proper solution is probably to put a lip around the hole in the bonnet so water can't run in, maybe one day.

[dan097]

was wondering why this was looking familiar, ive been following over on pcm hacking lol, loving your work as always mate!

[Bruiser]

You make me ashamed to show anything I attempt to make with metal

[76lxhatch]

Made a bracket for the filter and painted the modified bird bath.

 

Made up some little brass crush tubes to suit these reinforced rubber rocker cover gaskets. Hopefully these are the right length to allow properly tightening the bolts with just a little crush of the rubber.

 

[Heath]

Nice!

 

Oh, wow. I have been putting Loctite on my rocker cover bolts and trying not to over-tighten them. I've got late model heads so the rocker covers gaskets are a bit different (and not Speco brand)

I guess it does make sense... kind of making it work like an O-ring with a pre-set crush.

[myss427]

Looks like a very small throttle body? how much air flow is it rated at?

[76lxhatch]

I guess it does make sense... kind of making it work like an O-ring with a pre-set crush.

Hopefully, we will see.

 

 

Looks like a very small throttle body? how much air flow is it rated at?

Its 82mm, I was a little concerned about the size too but touch wood it should be OK. Really wanted to go with the Bosch unit as its better packaged than the GM ones and significantly cheaper to boot. Also don't want to go too big as then you lose fine control at small throttle openings.

[claysummers]

Crush tubes, good idea.


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Ol mate mills the ridge on heads for a better seal.


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[Bigfella237]

An 82mm throttle body at WOT should flow a tad better than 1200cfm

 

According to the first couple of online calculators I found, a 5047cc engine at 6,000rpm, even allowing for a volumetric efficiency of 100% (it's probably more like 80%) should only draw around 535cfm.

 

So, going by the math alone...

[76lxhatch]

I couldn't find a flow figure for the Bosch throttle body, published figures for similar sizes vary wildly because the design affects it quite a lot. Don't think I've seen anything as high as 1200cfm, but can't see it being any less than 650-750cfm being pessimistic.

 

Also it's a 355 so more like 5817cc, and the current redline is 6300rpm (might increase this a tad as it keeps getting in the way!), and ideally allow for slightly better than 80% volumetric efficiency... but yeah you're right, the math says it should be OK. Just seems weird when everyone is putting 93-102mm throttle bodies on everything now.

[76lxhatch]

To get the throttle pedal in the right position the original bracket needed to be removed, a bit of careful die grinding in a tight space removed the welds and have put that aside. The new pedal requires a new bracket as it needs to be positioned straddling the upper firewall and the inner wheel well.

 

Rather than fold up something out of sheet metal, why not spend four times as long casting and machining an aluminium part? My sand molds are still pretty crude but slowly improving, although I've discovered that somehow the sand still hasn't dried out enough and is still too wet. I think this is probably the reason for the porous castings, good enough for a bracket though.

 

The bit that sticks out sits against the sheet metal where the original bracket was welded on. The area looks somewhat flat at first glance but needed a compound angle and a bit of clearance to get it to sit right. The stud on top is double-ended, so it both attaches the bracket to the firewall and the pedal to the bracket. The two 6mm button head screws are installed from inside the wheel well.

It isn't very well finished as yet, would be nice to clean it up a bit more but then again you don't really see it.

 

This is where the top stud protrudes into the engine bay. The grommet above is blocking the original cable hole for now.

 

Bracket in place, giving a flat surface for the pedal and room for the carpet to sit as before. The bottom hole is tapped 5/16" UNC (same as the stud) for a cap screw.

 

With the pedal installed. I think my photography is even worse than my sand casting, you'll have to take my word for it that everything is straight and in the right place. Feels right and the pedal hits the stop just as it starts to touch the carpet.

[SHEEL]

Neat as mate!

[FLY_LX]

wow

[76lxhatch]

As far as I know the old fuel pressure reg was working, but it is 30 years old so would be a shame to put together a new EFI system and have problems with it later. I like the Radium engineering pieces, quite pricey but then when you compare to a factory replacement not so bad! Bought one of their new style adjustable ones that can mount directly to the rail.

 

It came with the AN-6 to AN-8 o-ring boss swivel adapter on the right, but the rail doesn't have quite enough meat to accommodate this and I wasn't going to machine new custom rails just for this. Made up the stainless fitting on the left instead, made it fairly long and the retainer is a very snug fit to give plenty of support.

 

Still allows swivelling to any angle.

 

The return comes out the bottom with an AN-6 flare fitting (I don't understand this obsession, you always need adapters for OEM parts). You can buy hose tail adapters... for $35 each! Wasn't going to pay that just on principle, so I made one of them too.

 

Heaps of room, it's great not having a big distributor cap and leads in the way. Both the return and the top part with the vacuum connection can swivel 360 degrees.

[76lxhatch]

Previously the wiring was P clipped to the underside of the fuel rails with some M5 cap screws. As you might imagine they weren't very easy to access. Machined a small pocket around the holes.

 

And used them to locate a stainless bracket. These will just use cable ties and place the wiring at the bottom/inside of the rail where access is a little better, but still somewhat hidden from sight.

 

Gave up trying to sand the instrument surrounds smooth and used some primer filler.

 

I think they came out out OK, will find out the first time I turn the lights on.

 

Decided to steal the hazard light setup I built for the sedan: https://www.gmh-tora...-8#entry1068989

No idea where the knob for the hazards is, if I ever even had it. Made a new one.

 

Just needs a hole in the coffee pot to pass through.

[Bigfella237]

~ Gave up trying to sand the instrument surrounds smooth and used some primer filler. ~

Ah yes, gotta love FDM printers! This is the main reason I went to resin printing... soooo much better finish!

 

P.S. You must be getting an itchy trigger finger by now... Surely it can't be far from turning the key?

Edited by Bigfella237, 15 October 2023 - 12:49 PM.

[76lxhatch]

Still a way to go yet unfortunately. Planning to make a new interior fuse box and re-do most of the wiring, possibly add some related niceties like intermittent wipers. Also looking at repainting the scuttle panel, the manifold needs to come off for a repaint... the snowball is gaining momentum again

[SmacT]

Awesome work as usual. Love reading it. 💪