589 replies to this topic

[rodomo]

Love the wheels and my partner loves your shelves

[Shtstr]

question?? i didn't think the lx torana's ran the rubber bump stop in the tunnel like the uc's do

[76lxhatch]

Above the diff you mean? Its shown in the LX parts manual (page 362).

Mine's a little shorter than factory due to the car being a bit on the low side

edit: actually I've just noticed that the inset showing the bump stop says '8UG, 8UH, 5 Litre Eng.' so maybe not all models?

Edited by 76lxhatch, 14 September 2012 - 07:20 AM.

[76lxhatch]

Drove a round trip of a bit over 500km on Saturday to see a car show, weather was great and lots of cars (no pics sorry). Torana went great, got somewhere around 14L/100km with 3 of us in the car cruising at a reasonable pace.

Ever since I've had the car the door seals have been on backwards/wrong doors and I've been meaning to swap them over. Started to do so yesterday and discovered this in the drivers door, decided I'd better fix it


A bit more digging



Fix the inner layer


Cut out a piece of tin in roughly the right shape


Glue it on


drill the trim holes and add a lick of paint


Took the opportunity to fit the new bailey channel I've had sitting around waiting for months/years too, just waiting on some replacement clips for the seal and door will go back on.

Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 11:18 PM.

[76lxhatch]

Pulled the car apart again a few weeks ago to fit the power steering along with a few other things that seem to have gotten out of hand...

Fitted the power steering (see http://www.gmh-toran..._25#entry709694), having a bit of a nightmare with a minor leak but I think I have a plan to fix it then will be ready for testing.

Changed the diff ratio to 3.45:1 (was 3.23:1, slightly too tall for good first gear take off).

Installed a nice hydraulic thrust bearing to go with the Muncie:


Still have to finish plumbing it up but I think I have all the fittings I need now. I'd be interested to know why aftermarket manufacturers all use AN fittings where everything else is standard inverted flare, its bloody impossible to get any sort of adapter.

Also spend a good portion of the weekend putting the new exhaust together:



Its 2.5" with X pipe, resonators and chamber mufflers. I had to tweak the side exit tail pipes shown on the previous page slightly but it all fits now and should just clear the lower trailing arms at full bump if my calculations are correct! Might trim the ends just a little to make them less conspicuous



Bought a pair of Recaro front seats a while ago (same as fishnet style but with normal headrests) but I want to (try to) get it back on the road for next weekend so they will have to wait. Injection still waiting on manifold machining (not that I've done the wiring etc to be ready for it anyway).

Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 11:18 PM.

[76lxhatch]

Back on the road, clutch throw isn't quite perfect so I may have to adjust the pushrod on the pedal at some stage but good enough for now. Exhaust sounds better than I thought so quite happy about that. New diff ratio perfect for take off and 100km driving

[TerrA LX]

Hmmm side pipes. ; )

[76lxhatch]

Jeff yours was one of the ones I was looking at when I had the silly idea originally, problem is we don't have good enough roads to get away with that little ground clearance. I think I saw one of your photos where the exit pipe came straight out under the trailing arm?

The outside edge of the mufflers where the exit pipes come out has only around 5mm clearance to the floor, the inside edge tilted down but still hardly below the bottom of the trailing arm. I also had thoughts about a front in/out (I think I saw it on a Corvette?) muffler and curving the exit pipe around the front of the rear passenger footwell but that would have been too low also.

As it is the lowest point is still the collector flanges, but only barely below the X pipe and resonators now (they have to run under the driveshaft loop, which now has a flat bottom to accommodate!). It will probably scrape some of that centre section on a big speed bump but at least it shouldn't rip anything off... time will tell!

I also have an ulterior motive for the side pipes (aside from them being cool!), need space around the drop tank at back for EFI system components soon and there's not enough room for both

[76lxhatch]

Yeah I'd probably lose that.

Just spun the clutch up in third gear on the drag strip, might have to call it a day... :-(

[76lxhatch]

Yeah seems to be pretty much normal again (drove it home) but not sure why it did it at all, never had any hassles before. Time will tell no doubt

[76lxhatch]

Load it up at low revs and the shifter starts wobbling back and forth quite violently, no noticeable increase in revs but I think its done. Lots of spare dust under the inspection cover.

Ordered one of these today: http://www.sunburybr...au/prod1901.htm
Now just have to figure out how to pay the credit card bill...!

[76lxhatch]

Definitely didn't look like this before...





I think I've figured out why too, guy at the local brake place made me up a dodgy 3/16" adapter to connect the new hydraulic slave (can't get AN fittings anywhere, why on earth do they use them?). It doesn't seem to be passing the fluid quickly enough, pedal feels normal but I think if I drop it quickly the clutch will probably engage just a little too slowly. Hopefully I can find a better solution.

Edited by 76lxhatch, 21 July 2017 - 11:19 PM.

[76lxhatch]

You can get a few here, but they're mostly alloy crap (the red and blue anodised stuff) and wrong sizes, just ricer bling for oil coolers etc. It needs to attach a 1/4" (tube size) inverted flare at the master to a -4 (7/16"-20 thread) female connection on the Tilton braided line. Hydraulic places here call them JIC fittings (not 100% sure if they're the same but compatible) and I think I've found a place which can supply a flare fitting and a male-male adapter to make it work - then I can just make a new 1/4" bundy line which will be full size the whole way.

Last time I bought one of these Tilton slaves it had much longer lines with banjo fittings and if I recall correctly it crimped onto a section of bundy tube at the master so it was no dramas. This one has o-rings and tiny circlips at the slave so they can't be replaced and the lines are ridiculously short with 37 degree AN ends... when almost all automotive hydraulic gear uses 45 degree inverted flares, go figure.

The adapter the brake place made me was just a ball flare to seal against the -4 female fitting. It did seal although I had misgivings at the time about the smaller inside diameter, should have listened to myself...! Never mind, I need a better clutch ;-)

[76lxhatch]

Yep found it this morning, thanks. The biggest problem is that no-one knows about automotive stuff, they're just not interested.

Now just have to go somewhere else to get some more bundy... flywheel should be done soon too :-)

[76lxhatch]

Haha yeah I was a bit worried but the flywheel still had a fairly flat surface unlike the clutch plate which looked like the surface had actually melted. Just picked it up and looks good not too much taken off either.

Going to rebuild the shifter linkages with rod ends then everything goes back together this weekend hopefully