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New engine for SLR 3300


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#1 _darrenmark1_

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Posted 26 April 2009 - 11:05 PM

I have to pull the 202 out of the sons SLR and make it new. I would say it is standard bore.

What should i do to it?

It has to go very well but not stupid, i have never done a six before and I'm sure plenty of you guys have
so your advice would be great.

Crank?
Rods?
Pistons?
Cam????
Pushrods?
Head????
Valves?
Rollers?
Carb's. (want triples)
Headers?

It is a 4 speed manual.
I want to start collecting parts etc, anyone got any triples that would be good, i see em on ebay and have no idea what I'm looking at.

Thanks
Darren

#2 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 07:11 AM

I have to pull the 202 out of the sons SLR and make it new. I would say it is standard bore.

What should i do to it?

It has to go very well but not stupid, i have never done a six before and I'm sure plenty of you guys have
so your advice would be great.

Crank?
Rods?
Pistons?
Cam????
Pushrods?
Head????
Valves?
Rollers?
Carb's. (want triples)
Headers?

It is a 4 speed manual.
I want to start collecting parts etc, anyone got any triples that would be good, i see em on ebay and have no idea what I'm looking at.

Thanks
Darren

Stock crank
Zero deck the block when you get it bored
Blue/Black/Starfire rods
ACL Race series pistons are nice but you can use cheaper ones for a streeter. Aim for 10:1-10.5:1 with your piston/head combo (PULP)
230 - 240deg @ 0.50" cam (solid)
Pushrods to suit valvegear
YT style 9 port head, 1.7 & 1.48 valves, but don't use one that's been overly hogged out
Std adjustable rockers are ok but check the usual spots for clearance, YT rollers are nicer
1-3/4" triple SUs
1-1/2" primary pipe extractors, 2-1/2" exhaust
Also use HEI dissy and coil from blue six

#3 yel327

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 07:38 AM

Agree with the above ^^. Except I wouldn't do it to the engine in the SL/R now if it's the original HL block for the car. Put it aside and find another block, doesn't matter what just don't use the original if you can help it. You should be able to pick up a red QL/QM etc block for less than $100.

#4 _Drag lc_

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 07:55 AM

yep as above but i would recomend getting the acl race series rebuild kit then you have everything to build the engine aswell.they are cheap enough i think they used to be like 5 or 600 that was with bearings gaskets pistons pins rings welsh plugs plasti gauge .basickly everything you need to put it together.

Hayden

#5 _torana_umunga74_

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 08:33 AM

i can get some tripple SU's i don need em im goin 8.

#6 _Allports_

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 10:14 AM

As above good advice from oldjohnno all except the deck height leave it 0.005" below to give you 1 more go at the motor rather than having to lopp piston tops off. Remeber the piston rocks up @ TDC and the piston rod combo streches when it revs up so less is more IMO

#7 _Courage_

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 11:38 AM

Darren, looks like that 202 is gonna crank... however might wanna check power/weight ratio.

BTW if you are getting rid of the Head let me know :P

#8 FastEHHolden

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 12:58 PM

Or I have a HL SLR 202 for sale..stripped down....date stamp of block , head and exhaust manifold all very close...can have it for $75...

or Tuff has a runner..think its QL? PM him

#9 _darrenmark1_

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 04:17 PM

Or I have a HL SLR 202 for sale..stripped down....date stamp of block , head and exhaust manifold all very close...can have it for $75...

or Tuff has a runner..think its QL? PM him



Thanks mate what bore is it upto?

as for Tuff's thanks anyway but i want build it from scratch with the boy, so he can say we built it.

The bottom end really is no big stress, just gota find a set of starfire rods. there is some on ebay for $220.00 but then you have to start spending money on em. he also says he has some NOS ones for $500.00. What do you think of the prices? Is it worth getting ARP rod bolts put in the new ones?

The head is what concerns me, there seems to be plenty of different ones around. Anyone got a Yella head in good nick that they don't need? New or old?

What is a fair price to pay for the triples? i don't wana be pissin about trying to find bits and pieces for em, something that will bolt straight on.

#10 _Drag lc_

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 04:23 PM

dont buy them i sold a set a few weeks back with arp bolts used but ok for 128 . you could buy 2 hole blue motors for 220 . i would struggle to pay 50 for a set of blue rods.

Thanks hayden

#11 _darrenmark1_

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 04:28 PM

Darren, looks like that 202 is gonna crank... however might wanna check power/weight ratio.

BTW if you are getting rid of the Head let me know :P


The head will stay with me it is a numbers matched engine, they sell heads on ebay for $50.00, why would you need a new one? that is 35 years old, costs a
fair bit to have them done, better of buying a reco one of ebay if you need one. what is wrong with yours?

What do you mean Jol? Power to weight? Because he will be on his P Plates?

What sort of power do you expect out of a nice 202 ? I can't see anything to radical in the motor they are suggesting, sounds like a good balance
of reliability and power, the cops ( YOU ) haha, only say he cant drive a V8, they wouldn't have a clue what was done inside the motor! :dontknow:

Might be shiney and look the part but as we all know that doesn't mean Jack Shit! Cops aren't gona Dyno it or anything. :3gears:

This is more of a car he can put away for later in life and drive on special occasions, that's why i will make it like a new car.
It maybe worth somethin one day, for a daily he will have a normal car.

#12 _darrenmark1_

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 04:29 PM

dont buy them i sold a set a few weeks back with arp bolts used but ok for 128 . you could buy 2 hole blue motors for 220 . i would struggle to pay 50 for a set of blue rods.

Thanks hayden



Thanks for the advice! anyone got a good set?

#13 _darrenmark1_

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 09:06 PM

righto fellas is this what i"m ment to be looking for?

Posted Image

or this

Posted Image

i know the first one is upside down!!

Thanks Darren

#14 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 09:58 PM

Either would work tho the bottom one looks a bit less delapidated. The Cain manifolds were popular, and the manifold in the top pic has got the dog-legged end runners to clear the firewall on early Holdens. I prefer the through-shaft linkage like on the top set but the other is OK too if the linkages are in good condition. Whatever you get you'll need to give them a good freshen up, especially the butterfly spindles and bores.

#15 FastEHHolden

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 12:02 PM

I have blue rods too...$60 a set...$10 ea.

That block is std bore but it has a lip so I would go a rebore one it.

I have a YT head too..$300

Fark...your in Melbourne.


BTW you'll pay about $350 for triples.

#16 _darrenmark1_

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 04:31 PM

Has anyone got any decent triples?

#17 _darrenmark1_

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 04:37 PM

I have blue rods too...$60 a set...$10 ea.
That block is std bore but it has a lip so I would go a rebore one it.
I have a YT head too..$300
BTW you'll pay about $350 for triples.


Mate i will take the Rods. Msg Me the bank details with postage to Melbourne. Thanks

What is the Head like? Are the valves any good? Are YTH's ported etc, Am i gona have to fully reco it? I'm not to cluey on them is that like a 9 port head.

The block have you got a crank aswell?

#18 _darrenmark1_

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 04:40 PM

What about a flywheel? Lightened YT one? does anyone else make them, I have a L34 lightened Flywheel on my SLR and the weight difference is amazing.

#19 FastEHHolden

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 09:21 PM

I have it all...crank, head, block the lot.

The head will work if you don't want to get it recoed now....its not stuffed...its so much like a 9 port that it is one.

If you have to send a head you may as well fill a pallet.

#20 FastEHHolden

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 09:23 PM

I have a lightened flywheel but I dont want to sell that one....suggest a blue motor flywheel (got one) or get one lightened and balanced when you get your other machining done.

#21 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 29 April 2009 - 04:36 AM

What about a flywheel? Lightened YT one? does anyone else make them, I have a L34 lightened Flywheel on my SLR and the weight difference is amazing.

Just get a lightweight YT steel one, don't buggerize around with lightened cast iron wheels. The YT flywheels aren't that dear. Think about a heavy duty balancer while you're at it, they are'nt absolutely essential but again not that expensive for the peace of mind.

#22 _Drag lc_

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Posted 29 April 2009 - 07:20 AM

yeah as above dont bother rooting around with the cast iron flywheel y/t steel way better.

#23 _Squarepants_

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Posted 29 April 2009 - 08:56 AM

My mate just bought a YT racing flywheel (with the "reduced peripheral mass") off ebay for $315 + $25 postage. But you don't want a racing one for a street car...
Just wanted to give you an idea of price. :spoton:

#24 orangeLJ

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Posted 29 April 2009 - 10:09 AM

I run a YT explosion proof steel flywheel, great investment!
they are about $400 from YT.

Buy a decent harmonic balancer and make sure you get the whole lot balanced (clutch, flywheel, crank rods, pistons etc etc) its not too expensive (cost me a couple hundred) and it gives you piece of mind.

I run ACL flat tops (larry perkins series) on Black rods (although I have some H beam forged rods in the shed :) )

Head wise, you can get away with a stage 3 holden head with a mild port clean up and a set of fresh decent sized valves.

My old 6 was around the 100kw mark (94kw) running really rich (too big needles in the carbies)

It was running a "stage 2 cam" (was a custom grind based off a crow cams stage 2 profile) holden stg3 head with mild port work, about 8.5:1 compression (bugger all really) lightened flywheel and triple SUs on long runner armours manifolds.

It was a tidy package, didnt like to rev much (about 4500 was the cutoff) but it was more then enough for flogging around on my red Ps and for a bit of my greens.

Now running 9.8:1 compression, ACL flattops on black rods, custom cam a smidge bigger then 35/75 (hydraulic), YT roller rockers, bit more portwork (still nothing major) Still running the triple SUs with same (BV needles I think) needles, fully balanced rotating assembly, YT flywheel, Electronic ignition, MSD 5 etc etc.

it goes ALOT better then before.

In 6-12 months time Im swapping over to 40mm webers which should see a bit more improvement again.

Id say for starters, build up something mild, the major costs come in machine work, throw a mid range camshaft in it with a whack of compression and some triples and let him get used to that for a while (its more then enough to get yourself into trouble)

Then throw a couple grand at it down the track and go from there!

my next engine (a while off now, Ive got a mortgage!) will more then likely be a blown and injected, so another step up!

I think I babbled alot, but anyway, have fun!

#25 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 29 April 2009 - 08:32 PM

If there is one thing that you must get right on a Holden 6 it's the head. It's the bottleneck as far as flow and power goes, no matter how "trick" the other components are you won't make power if the head isn't properly done. You might be interested in reading these notes if you haven't already.

Edited by oldjohnno, 29 April 2009 - 08:34 PM.





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