Javascript Disabled Detected

You currently have javascript disabled. Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality.

Chassis Jig

Started by Bart , Nov 21 2005 09:20 PM

Please log in to reply

8 replies to this topic

#1 Bart

Shit a brick

Members
2,559 posts

Location:Sydney
Car:LJ Torana
Joined: 20-November 05

Posted 21 November 2005 - 09:20 PM

Hey guys thank christ i found you i thought you dissapeared for ever and i shit me self feeeeew.
I have FINALLY started restoring my LJ and i need to know do i need a Chassis jig when taking out the rear parcel shelf and the outer skin on the front door pillar, however i do realise when takong out the sills some sort of jig is needed which i plan to build from square tube steel.
Any help or advice would be great
Thanks Guys

Edited by Bart, 21 November 2005 - 09:20 PM.

Back to top

#2 _gm3300_

Guests

Posted 23 November 2005 - 03:23 PM

here's a pic of the support i made to remove the inner and outer sill from my old LC GTR, i also added diagonal braces to the trans tunnel and the rear seat rail before i took the sill out. I sold the car before i installed the new sill, the new owner had no problems having it all put back in and everything lined up ok. If your making a support make sure you leave youself enough room to work around it.
grant
rusty lc

Back to top

#3 Bart

Shit a brick

Members
2,559 posts

Location:Sydney
Car:LJ Torana
Joined: 20-November 05

Posted 23 November 2005 - 06:46 PM

Wow that is pretty rusty, mine actually isnt anywhere near as bad although mine has a small rust hole in the front inner sill like yours but not as bad.
I was thinking of a jig similar to this. (hope the picture worked)
Thanks for that pic, basically i can see you have welded a couple of bars from the rear pillar to the front pillar to keep that part of the car true, i may do the same when i do the sills as i havnt cut the sills out yet.

Basically do i need a jig to remove the rear parcel shelf (not including the back seat panel) and outer skin of the front pillar, if i dont i can build the jig later and get stuck into the rear parcel shelf etc this weekend, then again i need a jig for later. hmmm

chassis jig

Chassis jig2

Edited by enderwigginau, 24 November 2005 - 03:09 PM.

Back to top

#4 _Pete_

Guests

Posted 23 November 2005 - 10:31 PM

The chassis tables in the last pics there are normally used for building frames and chassis like in the picture, not for general panel repairs. Pro Hot Rod shops normally use them for cars that need complete fabricated floors,setting ride heights and suspensions etc.

To replace even the panels your intending to do a couple of strategic lengths of steel welded into place would be enough (some might say overkill) to stop any movement that your concerned about. When your doing your repairs keep the car level and keep measuring your diagonals so you can adjust what you need before welding.

Although one of those Pro Frame tables would look pretty awesome sitting in the shed

and then you'd have an excuse to build an all out wild car Troy Trepanier style!!!

Back to top

#5 Bart

Shit a brick

Members
2,559 posts

Location:Sydney
Car:LJ Torana
Joined: 20-November 05

Posted 24 November 2005 - 04:09 AM

Thanks mate thats great.
One more thing, where would i get spot weld drills, hardware store? engineering shop?

Thanks

Back to top

#6 _gm3300_

Guests

Posted 24 November 2005 - 08:20 AM

here's a pic of a spot weld drill made from a normal 6.5mm twist drill, if i have a lot of welds to remove i'll sharpen up 3 or 4 of them, the procedure i use is to centre punch the middle of the weld, using a small centre drill (a #1 has a 3/64" pilot drill, i do this because the weld can be quite hard) drill part way through the weld, it doesnt matter if you go through as the hole is small, this small hole then locates the spot weld drill so you can drill through one layer of metal. Have a practice on another piece to try it out.
grant
https://cache.gmh-to...00/spotweld.jpg

Back to top

#7 _Pete_

Guests

Posted 24 November 2005 - 09:38 PM

Thats a pretty good modification of a twist drill there gm3300, looks just like a regular spot weld drill.

You can buy spot weld drills from, again, your local automotive paint suppliers (most will carry some) or also a welding shop like BOC, Fan Welding etc.

The key to using a spot weld drill is to keep the speed of the drill REALLY low and use good pressure on it, High speeds only burn them out and make them really blunt very quickly.

Back to top

#8 Bart

Shit a brick

Members
2,559 posts

Location:Sydney
Car:LJ Torana
Joined: 20-November 05

Posted 25 November 2005 - 10:53 PM

Thanks guys, i made up a spot weld drill and it works great.
Thanks again

Back to top

#9 Bart

Shit a brick

Members
2,559 posts

Location:Sydney
Car:LJ Torana
Joined: 20-November 05

Posted 26 November 2005 - 05:34 PM

Rightyo, iv cut a section out of the lower rear windscreen corner and have carefully out lined the rust repair section for a nice fit, i should get some pics up ay.
Cheers guys