im going to do some rust repair on my uc and need advice on witch welder to get how many amps ect ect
thanks
welder
Started by
_emmo1980_
, Jun 07 2009 12:55 PM
17 replies to this topic
#2
_nial8r_
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Posted 07 June 2009 - 01:07 PM
you can pic up cheap Mig's from super cheap and joints like that now for around 300 clams or so, and if its only for minor rust repairs thats all ya really need just stay away from the gasless mig's i think there crap ( thats my opinion ) but if ya planning on doing some serious welding then start looking at around 800-1k....... the mig i use is just a " Mig Mate Turbo 120 Dual Purpose " it can be used with or without Argon/co2, tried it once andit wasnt my cuppa tea but i know of a couple of ppl that swear by gasless migs !!!
#3
TerrA LX
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Posted 07 June 2009 - 01:50 PM
And just remember, you can not weld rust ok.
#4
_torana_umunga74_
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Posted 07 June 2009 - 02:39 PM
u want 130 amps or more. a big welder can do small jobs but a small welder cant do bigger. u'll need gas too
#5
benno81
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Posted 07 June 2009 - 07:41 PM
im one that swears by me gasless mig but only for upto 5mm mild steel
if u want to weld above that then yeah buy a gas mig i brought my mig sip from repco for 200 but that was 2 yrs back now still going strong though these welders are made in italy same place as the ferrari lol so must not be a bad brand.
all depends on how much u have to spend if price is not an issue then look at a uni mig gas mig or similiar or if u dont have a budget then buy a miller one of the best welders u can buy
if u want to weld above that then yeah buy a gas mig i brought my mig sip from repco for 200 but that was 2 yrs back now still going strong though these welders are made in italy same place as the ferrari lol so must not be a bad brand.
all depends on how much u have to spend if price is not an issue then look at a uni mig gas mig or similiar or if u dont have a budget then buy a miller one of the best welders u can buy
#6
_torana_umunga74_
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Posted 07 June 2009 - 08:05 PM
i mean for car steel gas is bettr, normal steelwork i use fluxcore wire, its sweet
#7
benno81
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Posted 08 June 2009 - 08:10 PM
wats the diff between car steel and normal steel mate???
thought it was all the same???
thought it was all the same???
#8
_torana_umunga74_
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Posted 08 June 2009 - 08:17 PM
i mean the size. for thin stuff i always use gas and .6 wire jus less cleanup if im working with RHS or pipe or bar or watev i like fluxcore cos u can work anywhere an u don have to waste gas.
#9
_Squarepants_
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Posted 13 June 2009 - 03:56 PM
Panel steel seems to be softer than mild steel.
If you've ever seen an old skool panel beater make a panel from scratch, then tried to do something similar out of mild steel sheet, you'll know what I'm talking about. It just doesn't stretch or shrink like the good panel stuff.
I don't know the finer details of it, but I'd be interested to learn.
If you've ever seen an old skool panel beater make a panel from scratch, then tried to do something similar out of mild steel sheet, you'll know what I'm talking about. It just doesn't stretch or shrink like the good panel stuff.
I don't know the finer details of it, but I'd be interested to learn.
#10
wot179
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Posted 13 June 2009 - 04:37 PM
THE OFF TOPIC REPLY
Hot rolled mild steel sheet has a black scale on it.The scale makes it mildly rust resistant while you are making stuff out of it.If you try to tig weld it,the scale must be removed or porosity will ensue.Mig,oxy or electric arc welding is fine.
It is also slightly harder than panel steel,and can only be hammered around with extra effort.
The scale must also be cleaned off before using bog or automotive paints.
Many repo skins and patch repair panels are made from zinc seal or Zinc anneal.These products are mild steel with a zinc coating.This coating prevents rust during manufacture and has several properties that make it great for sheetmetal manufacture.
It has basicly the same pros and cons when welding as hot rolled.
However,it does not lend itself readily to being dollied into complex shapes.The zinc coating process basicly hardens the surface of the sheet,making it great for most things but less than ideal for hammering into shape.
Lastly you have cold rolled mild steel.
This is what cars used to be made of.I think they use a variation of this material in car manufacture today,but I dont really know what little extras they put in it.
Also known as bright mild steel,it is nice a malleable and lends itself perfectly to manufacturing complex shapes.
It welds beautifully using any method,and can be worked both hot and cold.
It can be formed into shapes with a hammer and dolly that can only be achieved by cutting and welding when using other materials.
Downsides are that it will rust overnight from the acid in your skin or the moisture in the atmosphere once the oil coating it comes supplied with is washed off.
Etch priming or some other form of surface protection should be used shortly after manufacture.
This is what GMH black was used for.(as far as I know)
It will also scratch pretty easily.
If anyone has anything to add to this or challenge me on or questions to ask please do.
Hot rolled mild steel sheet has a black scale on it.The scale makes it mildly rust resistant while you are making stuff out of it.If you try to tig weld it,the scale must be removed or porosity will ensue.Mig,oxy or electric arc welding is fine.
It is also slightly harder than panel steel,and can only be hammered around with extra effort.
The scale must also be cleaned off before using bog or automotive paints.
Many repo skins and patch repair panels are made from zinc seal or Zinc anneal.These products are mild steel with a zinc coating.This coating prevents rust during manufacture and has several properties that make it great for sheetmetal manufacture.
It has basicly the same pros and cons when welding as hot rolled.
However,it does not lend itself readily to being dollied into complex shapes.The zinc coating process basicly hardens the surface of the sheet,making it great for most things but less than ideal for hammering into shape.
Lastly you have cold rolled mild steel.
This is what cars used to be made of.I think they use a variation of this material in car manufacture today,but I dont really know what little extras they put in it.
Also known as bright mild steel,it is nice a malleable and lends itself perfectly to manufacturing complex shapes.
It welds beautifully using any method,and can be worked both hot and cold.
It can be formed into shapes with a hammer and dolly that can only be achieved by cutting and welding when using other materials.
Downsides are that it will rust overnight from the acid in your skin or the moisture in the atmosphere once the oil coating it comes supplied with is washed off.
Etch priming or some other form of surface protection should be used shortly after manufacture.
This is what GMH black was used for.(as far as I know)
It will also scratch pretty easily.
If anyone has anything to add to this or challenge me on or questions to ask please do.
Edited by wot179, 13 June 2009 - 04:39 PM.
#12
_torana_umunga74_
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Posted 13 June 2009 - 11:29 PM
i always cut replacement panels or patches from old panels. make life easier.
#13
_nial8r_
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Posted 14 June 2009 - 07:51 AM
i always cut replacement panels or patches from old panels. make life easier.
same here if i can get my hands on some old doors, boot lids or bonnets i take em , at the moment im useing and old HQ bonnet to smooth out my front inner gaurds, its the same gauge steel so there is no over lap when replacing the piece and it easy to work with...
#14
_threeblindmice_
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Posted 14 June 2009 - 07:37 PM
What about a Rare spares sill , is that going to be harder to weld in than a old body panel ? also about six years ago I bought a Mig and never used it , does it need oiling or anything before I use it ?
#15
_Squarepants_
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Posted 14 June 2009 - 08:19 PM
It will prolly be made from the zinc anneal as mentioned by Wot179. You will need to grind the zinc coating off prior to welding.What about a Rare spares sill , is that going to be harder to weld in than a old body panel ? also about six years ago I bought a Mig and never used it , does it need oiling or anything before I use it ?
The mig won't need oil or anything, maybe a new gas hose if it's 6 years old, it may be deteriorated (if you're running gas, that is).
#16
_threeblindmice_
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Posted 14 June 2009 - 08:44 PM
Thanks , from what's been said on the forum I'll be using gas .
#17
_Squarepants_
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Posted 14 June 2009 - 08:51 PM
That's the way to go imo, but remember, if you're welding outside, a bit of wind can blow your gas away and mess up your weld.
#18
wot179
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Posted 14 June 2009 - 08:56 PM
Your wire might have gone rusty as well.Unspool a few layers and it should be ok.Otherwise replace it.
Dont go nuts grinding the edges either,just a light touch up with a sanding disc or flapperwheel.
Dont go nuts grinding the edges either,just a light touch up with a sanding disc or flapperwheel.
Edited by wot179, 14 June 2009 - 08:56 PM.
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