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Welding aluminum with a MIG


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#1 _smithmiller6_

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Posted 22 June 2009 - 09:24 PM

I have a miller 185 mig,is it possible to weld alum?
If not what da ya suggest without purchasing a tig.

Thanks

Edited by smithmiller6, 22 June 2009 - 09:26 PM.


#2 _torana_umunga74_

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Posted 22 June 2009 - 09:28 PM

i believe you can. but you need a different liner in the torch $$ alum mig wire $$ different gas not sure wat and its still a shit job. you can get good little tig/stick converters for about 400 bucks they rip.

#3 _Squarepants_

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Posted 22 June 2009 - 09:59 PM

You need pure Argon gas.
Migging ally is pretty hardcore, not really suited to thin stuff. It can be done, but not as neatly as TIG.

#4 _torana_umunga74_

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Posted 22 June 2009 - 10:10 PM

its a pig. did it once at tafe it was interesting but tig was easier

#5 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 09:51 AM

i believe you can. but you need a different liner in the torch $$ alum mig wire $$ different gas not sure wat and its still a shit job. you can get good little tig/stick converters for about 400 bucks they rip.



The little $400 things wont weld ally.

Need AC/DC to do that, there all just DC.

Cheers.

#6 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 10:29 AM

The alloy welding I have seen done with a MIG is ugly with a considerable amount of welding splatter.

#7 _1uzbt1_

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 01:04 PM

yes you can,not real pretty welds etc.I think liners have to be a larger size than you would use for same size mild steel filler.A push/pull set up is the best but if you dont have keep the torch lead as straight as possible to avoid birds nests inside the machine.

Otherwise get someone to tig it up,if its a one off it probably be cheaper to do so as bottle rent/argon/liner and wire soon adds up.

#8 _Squarepants_

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 03:43 PM

You also need a different wire feed roller with a radiused groove as opposed to the V groove or knurled groove.

#9 Statler

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 05:13 PM

LOL....i've been welding alluminium with a M.I.G for years!

Your 185amp machine will handle the job nicely.

Here's how. Pull the gun off the welding plant, remove the liner, blow the bejesus out of the inside of the gun. You want to remove as much of the 'steel residue' as possible. If you have the coin, throw in a teflon liner. They're not that dear.
Do the same with the wirefeeder. Remove the rollers & blow everything out.

0.9 wire would burn better, but it becomes a pain without the right rollers.
1.2 will burn ok. It feeds a bit better. That's all i use at work and home. Less resistant to 'bird caging'. [where the wire wraps back around the rolls & makes a mess]. Use the 0.9 rollers though.

I'm not going into the 'how's' of setting the wire tension or amps. You will figure that out pretty quick if you already have a M.I.G & have some welding experience.

You need pure Argon gas.


Spot on Squarepants!
You also will need a reliable flow meter. If you are indoors, then flow around 12-15 l/h.

Alloy HAS to be clean! Read that again! .......Spotless!
Buy a stainless steel wire brush & scrub the material first. Don't use the wire brush that you cleaned your last set of plugs with! lol
Always 'push' the weld. Dont try to 'drag' it.
Have a try welding in 'little circles' as you go.
The process works on a 'spray arc' principle, very different to welding steel. Quite easy to get used to though.

With practice & tuition, you can lay down fillets as good as, or better, than using T.I.G.

Hope some of this helps,

Cheers, Col.

#10 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 05:37 PM

And it has a cool green glow :P

I've seen some fairly nice welds done with a mig, as col says.

Cheers.

#11 Statler

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 05:51 PM

We used to weld alluminium coke cans back together with a 350 amp machine! LOL

You couldn't pick it from T.I.G. LOL

I miss my pulse M.I.G!

#12 rodomo

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 05:56 PM

I haven't done much with my little C.I.G unit but found it was better with the amps up higher than for the same material thickness in steel.

Comment please Col? :huh:

#13 Statler

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 06:05 PM

^^^ agreed!
High amps are needed to get the 'spray arc' transfer to occur.

#14 Rockoz

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 07:40 PM

Some top hints above.
All the tips stated regarding cleanliness need to be followed.

My advice would be to go out and get some 5 or 6mm plate and start practising.
Just do downhand welding on top of the plate first.
Best tip I ever followed was to get my head as close as possible to the job and watch the puddle.
Its not a process you can get away with without keeping a close eye.
Remember that if you get too much heat into the job it will fall away and leave you with a deformed hole.

Practice a lot and the technique required will finally fall into place.

Good luck.

#15 Heath

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Posted 23 June 2009 - 07:49 PM

Very interesting thread!

#16 _mervex_

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 01:03 AM

i think coolngroovy covered most of it .i do this all day.i have done for about 15 years. if you are welding less than 3 mm,use a tig.above that,use a mig. pure argon gas.1mm wire,1mm u shape rollers,black teflon liner 1.2mm tips,clean,clean ,clean material.you need to set the heat higher than steel because the heat transfers along the alloy faster ,although it melts at a lower temp. i used to mig weld bullbars and because you see the welds,they gotta look good!you can make it look like a tig . mervex

#17 benno81

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Posted 04 July 2009 - 09:59 PM

+1 for mervex
i too have spent a few yrs welding ally with mig some stuff had to preheat the ally i found it easier this way

#18 _daveHQ_

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 08:52 PM

i've welded pleny of alum, my tips are

CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN get a stainless steel wire brush and make sure the areas to be welded are spotless

pre heat heavy section (thicker) alum before welding, aluimum conducts heat very well and the heat will run away very quickly





#19 xu1kid

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Posted 24 February 2010 - 10:17 PM

my old man bought one of these they work a treat

http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3caa714f7a




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