
Ballast resistor
#26
_Big T_
Posted 14 July 2009 - 09:19 AM
My car would start and idle ok but would then die once I actually started driving it. Problem turned out to be a kinked fuel line at the tank. The bracket holding the metal fuel lines had broken and caused a kink in the rubber line that connects to the tank. This meant the car would start and idle but once under load the fuel supply wasnt sufficient to keep it running.
If it wasnt for the sage advice and help from a forum members I would have been chasing an electrical problem for ages. All I had to do was crawl under the car and check that the fuel lines were all ok (which they were not) and I found the root of the problem.
I am not saying this is your problem but it wouldnt hurt to check. Its free and if your car was thrashed when stolen it is a good opportunity to check for other damage to the under carriage.
#27
Posted 14 July 2009 - 07:57 PM
Even changing the points or adjusting them is unlikely to cause a difference of more than 1 degree,
This is a bit missleading.
Point gap will effect timing.
If the point gap is too close, your timing will be retarded.
If the gap is too wide, your timing will be advanced.
This would be the case without moving the distributor.
#28
_torbirdie_
Posted 15 July 2009 - 07:09 AM
This is a bit missleading.
Point gap will effect timing.
If the point gap is too close, your timing will be retarded.
If the gap is too wide, your timing will be advanced.
This would be the case without moving the distributor.
????????
Even changing the points or adjusting them is unlikely to cause a difference of more than 1 degree, to get the conditions she reported it would have to be out be retarded by at least 6 deg
which bit of this is misleading?
Edited by torbirdie, 15 July 2009 - 07:10 AM.
#29
Posted 15 July 2009 - 10:02 AM
#30
_torbirdie_
Posted 16 July 2009 - 07:43 AM
The bit I quoted from your post.
Sorry, have to disagree.
Sure if you take the extremes of points settings where they are set to permanently closed or open, then yes there are major timing issues!
If the points are out of adjustment, and the motor runs, then the difference in timing wont be out significantly. Indeed if the points were out so far as to achieve the poor running described it would be more to the bad spark problem than the timing of the spark. Checking the points is indeed something that ought to be done.
The major emphasis of my original posting on this matter is I doubted the timing of the dizzy would be the problem
#31
Posted 16 July 2009 - 09:07 AM
Sorry, have to disagree.
Sure if you take the extremes of points settings where they are set to permanently closed or open, then yes there are major timing issues! The car wouldn't run in either of these conditions.
If the points are out of adjustment, and the motor runs, then the difference in timing wont be out significantly. This isn't quite true as adjusting points will effect timing which will effect running. Indeed if the points were out so far as to achieve the poor running described it would be more to the bad spark problem than the timing of the spark. Adjusting the points will effect timing which will effect running. Checking the points is indeed something that ought to be done.
The major emphasis of my original posting on this matter is I doubted the timing of the dizzy would be the problem
I agree that this probably not fault in this case and I am not arguing that. All I am doing is letting others be aware that point adjustment effects timing.
You post as if it isn't that critical which is sending the wrong impression to others IMHO.
Touching the points, either to replace or adjust, goes hand in hand with checking / adjusting timing afterwards.
#32
_Kermit SLR_
Posted 16 July 2009 - 11:42 AM
If you replace or alter the points in the dizzy, your timing WILL alter. You have to set your gap, which is best done with a dwell meter (more accurate than feeler gauges).
The points will get a build up on one side, and pitting on the other over time, which again, WILL alter your timing.
They can be filed down, or replaced if too bad.
Simon
#33
_torbirdie_
Posted 18 July 2009 - 07:59 PM
Hi.
If you replace or alter the points in the dizzy, your timing WILL alter. You have to set your gap, which is best done with a dwell meter (more accurate than feeler gauges).
The points will get a build up on one side, and pitting on the other over time, which again, WILL alter your timing.
They can be filed down, or replaced if too bad.
Simon
Simon and Rodomo, Im not arguing that points gap, wear etc will not cause some difference to timing, I understand the theory/mechanics of how it all works.
Im sure you'd both agree that unless the dizzy drive has suffered some damage, then there is no way for the timing to change, unless of course the points are very badly adjusted or worn(or arguably even spark gap is set incorrectly). Im sure you are not going to suggest that the dizzy ought to be rotated to accomodate a timing error caused by the points? Make sure of the correct points and gap first and there will be wont be much reason to be checking the timing
Even though I check the timing on the vehicles I look after, my experience on maintaining the same cars over a long period of years and kms was that the timing never needed to be adjusted and stand by my comments that replacing points or adjusting them correctly is unlikely to vary the timing from spec.
Edited by torbirdie, 18 July 2009 - 08:00 PM.
#34
Posted 19 July 2009 - 12:39 AM
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