Posted 15 September 2009 - 07:28 PM
[RANT]Obviously you dont know anything about paint potta.
You get a car that looks nice and strait for a full bare metal, start sanding it back, ooohhh look at this tonnes of bog in the rear quarter. Sand a bit lower yay the bottoms of the rear quarters are rusted out, filled with bog and newspaper. So are the sills, bottom of front guards, radiator support, etc.
Its not hard make problems like that look like there not there very easily.
Problem is when old mate goes to strip it all back he finds out that behind those nice strait panels is a tonne of bog and rust, hence why the price can blow out VERY QUICKLY!!.
If i was doing the job for you potta, found the situation to be like that and you told me "If you give me a quote, that's what I'm paying, end of story" then i assure you the nicely stripped car would be going square up your ass and then to court for the time spent striping.
Old mate did the right thing by giving a first price based on the work he can SEE is there and then a warning of what might happen.[/RANT]
Now tweety, we will assume you wont have this problem seeing though you have owned the car for so long and know its history so well, and i apologise for that rant.
There is no reason he would have to go right back to bare metal to paint it in 2k, if the job has been sitting for 15 years now then the acrylic is definitely shrunk as much as its going to by now and you can buy primers to spray 2k over acrylic.
But he is most likely erring on the cautios side, acrylic continues to shrink for a number of years and if you repaint it in 2k it will go to shit really quick if its not totally dry.
Also you have most likely used a silicone polish on it at some stage, or at least he should be assuming you have, which will also make life hard for him.
Anyway question 1, As to why he insists on 2k, well most painters now days dont know how to spray acrylic. In my apprenticeship there is absolutely no mention at all of the word acrylic.
Thankfully i've sprayed 10 or so cars in the stuff so i got a rough idea how to do it.
Question 2, Actual shade depends on the batch mixed, also depends on whether or not the colour on your car now is 100% correct, in general 2k-acrylic wont have a difference in shade, only if the formula is a bit different.
What will be different is LUSTRE. 2k has a very hard looking plasticy shine, whereas acrylic has that beautiful warm miles deep shine about it. 2k can be buffed to look more like acrylic, same as you can use different additives in the clear to make it look a bit more like acrylic, i havnt played with these personally.
Question 3, yes there is a benefit to you, the paint finish will last a lot longer, is more durable, and wont need nearly as much attention, a yearly polish and wax along with regular washing will keep it looking 100% compared to the monthly polish needed to keep acrylic up to scratch.
Question 4, here i disagree with him a lot, i highly doubt the panels will match when he is all done. You really need to get everything done at once regardless of whether it is acrylic, 2k, metallic, solid, three layer pearl, candie, doesnt matter, do it all at once. Sorry wot179.
Even solid colours will be very different, look at poor Barmans epic.
Very few people will be able to spray it in pieces and get it all the same.
Quote seems a little bit to cheap to me.
So basically if you want the harder wearing and less effort and can handle the different lustre then sure, go 2k, but thats not what you wanted in the first place and dont settle for it just because.
If your willing to keep up the constant maintenance regime required for acrylic and prefer the warmer look of the paint, keep searching.
Hope this helps love.
Cheers.
I need an edumacation here.
