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Mig Welding Help?


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#26 _nial8r_

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Posted 26 October 2009 - 08:07 PM

to be honest and yes i have the bullet proof vest on for this one Posted Image but i know no matter what, but your gonna be hitting it with a dolly and hammer and then a file after its done ( or body filler ) as like it as been said the heat is gonna warp the metal and the more you grind then the more heat your putting back into the job so it is gonna cause more warpage and before you know it you are gonna be left with 0.4mm thick metal so just take it easy dont over cook it with the heat and always be prepared for some filing or sanding Posted Image or in sort what bomber said, i cracked up when i seen his post Posted Image

#27 _Viper_

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Posted 26 October 2009 - 09:12 PM

Yea I always expected to have to use a little body filler... but obviously the less the better.. but now im confused... do I planish it or not haha.

And Yea im very careful when I grind to only grind the actual weld down without touching the surrounding metal as much as possible.

#28 wot179

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Posted 26 October 2009 - 09:22 PM

Cut some holes in an old panel,then weld them back in using different methods.That is by far the best way to see what each method does.

Dont take shortcuts in your trial,be patient and methodical and try to get every repair perfect. You will learn plenty.

All the listed methods have their application,only experience will tell you what works best for you.

Dont forget to do some trials near the edge of the panel where you have no rear access.

#29 _lx-304_

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Posted 27 October 2009 - 06:24 AM

where possible,weld on the inside of the panel.its less grinding on the face and will shrink the opposite way and is much easier for hammering.


dave

#30 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 27 October 2009 - 05:51 PM

Better make sure I have good welds then Posted Image

Heres another question, I cut and welded in some GTS guard flutes to my Gemini Guard today using the leap frog tack cool method and was just wondering is there any way to stop/reduce the shrinkage around the welds?

Like i get both the panels perfectly level but sometimes when you weld it then grind it back flush, around the weld is a little lower like its sunken away?

Posted Image

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I agree with other members posts here, however i might add that i try to avoid welding sharp angled or 90 degree corners. I find if i weld slightly more curved or multiple angled joins (such as a hexagon shape instead of a square or rectanlge) i get less distortion. This weld looks good to me, but in the lower right corner, it appears to have distorted more & is slightly more depressed than the rest of the welded joins. If around half an inch of that corner had been cut off at a 45 degree angle, from my experience anyway, there wouldn't have been as much distortion & therefore less hammer & dolly work ( which can over stretch the metal if used too much ). It's all a learning curve & good on you for having a go. As with alot of pursuits in life, practise makes perfect.

#31 _Viper_

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Posted 27 October 2009 - 07:34 PM

Yea the lower right corner I just didnt allign the 2 panels properly, the inner panel was lower then the original outer panel.. ill be much more careful next time :)

#32 _nial8r_

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Posted 29 October 2009 - 04:58 PM

i wouldnt go kicking your self to much there Clint your doing a great job mate even the best of em will blow a hole and get some warpage some time in there life if if they say they dont well yeah..............Posted Image

#33 _gtr161s_

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 07:11 AM

Pin holes !

When they spot weld a panel you may not have a direct thru pin hole but there will always be a gap between the 2 panels.

If your concerned about nicky delaminating after filling sand blast all your welds..this way you have a very tenatious perfectly clean surface for the nicky to adhere

If your getting pin holes you would be butt welding.... To advoid this and achieve a stronger weld overlap the panels by 10-20mm all-round (where possible).

I know in NSW engineers require a panel to be overlapped by 20mm all-round to put structural integrity back into the pressing..ie floor pans, tunnels etc..i use this method for 2 reasons, firstly its always going to be stronger than butt welding and you wont blow through

#34 _Viper_

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 09:58 AM

But doesnt overlapping the panels provide air gaps between the 2 and areas for water etc to get trapped and cause rust? or do you use seam sealer on every weld? or weld both sides?

#35 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 10:51 AM

Most good panel beaters and any good tin tapper will tell you that overlapping panels is generally bad, although i do believe it has its advantages from time to time its not recommended to be used often.

#36 76lxhatch

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 03:02 PM

Works OK for manufacturers who spot weld everything, I guess plenty of seam sealer...

#37 _nial8r_

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 10:51 AM

i have just done a tunnel mod in the LX and have done a 30mm overlap all the way round and welded it both sides so that it gains most of its strength back, just had to clean up the welds then seem seal it a good coat of shiltz and wal'a

#38 _gtr161s_

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 05:52 PM

If you make an engineering tunnel change to any vehicle it won't be passed unless the new tunnel is overlapped by min 20mm all round to existing floor.

This is standard practice in manufacturing.

Any panel that i overlap and welded is later flooded with a rust proofing drink.....some panel just can't be fully welded because the panel has gone through a lot of stress to formed into its current shape, adding excessive heat like welding will cause more problems so overlapping and spot welding is going to be far stronger than butt welding sheet steel.

#39 TerrA LX

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Posted 22 November 2009 - 09:34 PM

But doesnt overlapping the panels provide air gaps between the 2 and areas for water etc to get trapped and cause rust?
Yes, OEM.
or do you use seam sealer on every weld?
Ditto.
They last 30yrs+ if you did don't submerged them.



#40 _Viper_

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 07:08 PM

Hey all... Ok well been doing abit of welding of late and am getting better... just 1 problem... When Im doing the tack tack tack... cool.... tack tack tack... cool... method (buttwelded sheetmetal together) the first tack I goto do is always crap, when I pull the trigger it goes, bang bang bang (splat splat splat) then ZZzzzzzzz and does a weld... but then if I do the next tacks pretty quickly (withing say 10seconds) they just go Zzzzzzzz... Zzzzzz... Zzzzz perfectly.... but then if I wait too long, 15seconds Plus... once again the first tack goes pop pop pop zzzzz...

Any ideas?

Here's my latest effort
Posted Image

#41 TerrA LX

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 07:22 PM

Is the gas is leaking out of the line?

#42 _Viper_

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 09:03 PM

Hmm I dont think so, Even with the welder turned off and the valve on the bottle shut off and left overnight the guage still reads full pressure...

I also tried pressing the trigger abit without actually creating an ark to sorta get the gas "primed" but was still the same... Im leaning towards a wire feed problem? how do you know if you got the correct tension on the feeder?

#43 rodomo

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 09:05 PM

Looking at your weld I would say turn the amps up or the wire speed down, try wire speed down.

#44 TerrA LX

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Posted 03 January 2010 - 01:22 AM

I also tried pressing the trigger abit without actually creating an ark to sorta get the gas "primed" but was still the same... Im leaning towards a wire feed problem? how do you know if you got the correct tension on the feeder?


I carry an old pair if side cutters on the mig and snip the end off the feed wire for a fresh start.

#45 GTR600

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 08:54 PM

With out reading the whole thread if your getting wire then your wire feeder is fine,

porosity in your welds can be caused by several things.

moisture or surface contamination these i dont think so im sure your metal has been cleaned free of paint and rust,

flow rate to high or more likely to low just screw in the big black knob on your gauge until you reach say to 15 liters per minute.

excessive wind or air movement,

then again in your wire feeder there is a solinoid mind the spelling that i think will controlle open and closed on the gas, if you pull the trigger and get nothing at all then

you may need some repaires.

there are other small things that do affect gas shielding like gun angle and stick out but the welds look good enough from here.

with your wire feed as long as you pull the trigger and get wire you should be good.it should be able to handle a little resistance by hand.

hope this helps a little.

#46 _nial8r_

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Posted 05 January 2010 - 06:37 AM

try starting each weld with clean wire, as in cut the bit of shitty wire of so that it is a clean start, but you should only have to do this after you have let it cool for a bit, if your doing tac tac tac it should be fine and shouldnt have to cut the wire at all, or another problem could be that when you strike the first arc there might be a slight delay in the gas, turn the mig off and put the gun near ya ear and hit the trigger and see is there is a delay between when you pull the trigger and when you hear the gas come through !!!!

#47 Com_VC

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Posted 05 January 2010 - 01:47 PM

Hey all... Ok well been doing abit of welding of late and am getting better... just 1 problem... When Im doing the tack tack tack... cool.... tack tack tack... cool... method (buttwelded sheetmetal together) the first tack I goto do is always crap, when I pull the trigger it goes, bang bang bang (splat splat splat) then ZZzzzzzzz and does a weld... but then if I do the next tacks pretty quickly (withing say 10seconds) they just go Zzzzzzzz... Zzzzzz... Zzzzz perfectly.... but then if I wait too long, 15seconds Plus... once again the first tack goes pop pop pop zzzzz...

Any ideas?

Here's my latest effort
Posted Image


It could be doing the splating because the steel has cooled down, ie if you insufficient amps. if you turned the amps up this may solve your problem but then it may be too hot. You will just have to play around with the settings, turn the wire down a bit. etc.

This is a lot more noticible when mig welding aluminium. The first part of the weld is always cold. Some high end migs have hot start to compensate for it.

#48 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 05 January 2010 - 08:55 PM

Just saw an interesting tip for thin metal! Vertical downs are your friend, if you can get your work piece in a position to do it that is. Short of that, it is stop-start tacks.

Mmmm, interesting comments on wire feed. With MIG welding, wire feed affects the amount of amps pumping through the machine. Higher the wire feed, the more amps you are pumping through.

Amps with voltage settings needs to be balanced to get a good weld window. There are some combinations of voltage and wire feed where you'll get no good welds at all.

The difference between a good and a bad weld can be a poofteenth adjustment of the wire feed (AMPS). It is a very fine adjustment.

I love playing with my MIG, although I prefer oxy.

#49 GTR600

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Posted 05 January 2010 - 09:47 PM

Sorry,

i was referring to setting the tension on the rollers.

Yes slr your amperage is set through your wire feed.Posted Image

#50 racean69

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Posted 05 January 2010 - 10:25 PM

A rule of thumb for wire tension is light presure on the edge of the roll of wire with the palm of your hand should stop the wire feeding and make

the rollers slip... don't continuely do this though as it will cause an excess of wire shavings to be drawn into your liner causeing grief... this

tension setting is for solid wire not cored.. the tension for cored wire is much less. a quick check for excessive tension on cored wire is

let a bit of wire feed out of hand piece it should remain straight and not curl up in a spiral, this is called birdcageing.

another tip to to regulary remove your hand piece cable from the machine, remove contact tip, lay it out straight and blow it through with comp

air from tip end back, it will remove any fines in the liner.


When welding always keep your cable as straight and not looped as possible.

Cable/liner problems can be the cause of some hard to detect/solve problems when welding.

Always make sure you have a good earth to this can cause stabbing at the handpiece.




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