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triple su quick questions


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#51 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 04:21 PM

On the top of the carb will be a screw cap, probably black plastic. Screw this out, it'll have a rod and a piston attached. This piston fits in a tube that rises and falls with the carb slide. With the air cleaners removed lift the slide to the top with your finger and then squirt some oil in until it's about 10mm from the top of the tube. It'll only take a teaspoon or so of oil.
The exact quantity and type of oil isn't really critical despite what everyone says, just don't go any thinner than ATF or much thicker than 20W engine oil. I usually just stick the same oil in that I run in the engine. Generally SU's have very sharp response if they are tuned and have oil in them.

#52 _brendan_h_

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 04:24 PM

On the top of the carb will be a screw cap, probably black plastic. Screw this out, it'll have a rod and a piston attached. This piston fits in a tube that rises and falls with the carb slide. With the air cleaners removed lift the slide to the top with your finger and then squirt some oil in until it's about 10mm from the top of the tube. It'll only take a teaspoon or so of oil.
The exact quantity and type of oil isn't really critical despite what everyone says, just don't go any thinner than ATF or much thicker than 20W engine oil. I usually just stick the same oil in that I run in the engine. Generally SU's have very sharp response if they are tuned and have oil in them.



just to double cheak. life the piston up all the way then fill it with oil from the top of the dashpot in the tube?

#53 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 05:03 PM

Yep lift it right up then almost fill it to the top of the tube. Don't stress about overfilling it; if you put too much in just screw the cap on and lift the slide right up again. If there is too much in there the excess will just squirt out the little vent hole in the cap - put a rag over it so it doesn't spray in your face..

#54 _brendan_h_

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 05:18 PM

ive had a look around and the only oil i got is air tool oil. will this be alright to use?

#55 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 05:34 PM

So long as it isn't too thick it should be ok but I'd be going down the local servo and getting a small bottle of 15w/40

#56 _brendan_h_

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 06:11 PM

ok i put in some 15-40 motor oil and i dont knwo if i did somthing wrong but the piston is hard to push up, but when it gets to about 10-15mm form the top its get easyer. what did i do wrong?

#57 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 06:33 PM

Nothing, thats what it's supposed to do. It's meant to stop the slide from lifting too quickly

#58 rodomo

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 07:09 PM

http://images.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/techtips/general/pics/147.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/techtips/general/549.html&usg=__XJ-jIwA7KjqpUjTYas5_Yzw4L1A=&h=139&w=150&sz=9&hl=en&start=15&sig2=lx_S1wrj8O4IK3m0dH1Ajw&um=1&tbnid=culhAcUqTnOZsM:&tbnh=89&tbnw=96&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dsu%2Bdamper%2Boil%2Bpictures%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26rlz%3D1G1GGLQ_ENAU326%26sa%3DX%26um%3D1&ei=_pz_SrSyL4-Y6gPXh8nbCg


You might have missed this link on page 2 as Johnno and I posted at the same time?
It explains what the oil/damper does and it's effect on acceleration.

#59 _brendan_h_

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 07:39 PM

right o. so is it normal for it to be easyer when coming to the top?

thanks for telling me this

#60 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 08:01 PM

Can't say I've ever taken any notice, but I wouldn't worry too much - it might be just a bit of air trapped in there. I'd just take it for a run to see how it goes. If you're worried about it tho I'll grab a set from the shed and see if they do the same thing.

#61 _brendan_h_

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 08:03 PM

Can't say I've ever taken any notice, but I wouldn't worry too much - it might be just a bit of air trapped in there. I'd just take it for a run to see how it goes. If you're worried about it tho I'll grab a set from the shed and see if they do the same thing.


that would be great if you could do that.

apart from oil the only thing left is a decent throttle. so what does everyone use?

#62 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 08:27 PM


Can't say I've ever taken any notice, but I wouldn't worry too much - it might be just a bit of air trapped in there. I'd just take it for a run to see how it goes. If you're worried about it tho I'll grab a set from the shed and see if they do the same thing.


that would be great if you could do that.

apart from oil the only thing left is a decent throttle. so what does everyone use?


OK I just tried a couple and it does seem a little easier to lift at the top of the stroke - might just feel like that tho cos it's easier to pull up on it when it's up high. Anyway I wouldn't worry too much there's really nothing there to go wrong..
Go for a wander around the local wreckers and you'll soon find a suitable pedal. As for cables I've been known to use $5 pushbike brake cables from kmart and they've been fine. You might want to get some lighter return springs too - the std SU one is ok on a single carb but with triples you'll end up with huge calf muscles in yr right leg.

#63 _brendan_h_

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 08:34 PM



Can't say I've ever taken any notice, but I wouldn't worry too much - it might be just a bit of air trapped in there. I'd just take it for a run to see how it goes. If you're worried about it tho I'll grab a set from the shed and see if they do the same thing.


that would be great if you could do that.

apart from oil the only thing left is a decent throttle. so what does everyone use?


OK I just tried a couple and it does seem a little easier to lift at the top of the stroke - might just feel like that tho cos it's easier to pull up on it when it's up high. Anyway I wouldn't worry too much there's really nothing there to go wrong..
Go for a wander around the local wreckers and you'll soon find a suitable pedal. As for cables I've been known to use $5 pushbike brake cables from kmart and they've been fine. You might want to get some lighter return springs too - the std SU one is ok on a single carb but with triples you'll end up with huge calf muscles in yr right leg.


yer think i might on next weekend. its currently has a pusgbike cable throttle but i dont like it. i want to get a proper one. ive got the return springs that came with the redline linkage kit. the they are too heavy to be practable

#64 _brendan_h_

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 05:40 PM

would anyone know if a pedal out of a 6cly HQ would work? i can get one of them easy

#65 warrenm

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 07:02 AM

HQ was a lever arrangement similar to the LC/LJ Torana. UC Torana fits ok, or most early commodores.

#66 _brendan_h_

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 07:53 AM

HQ was a lever arrangement similar to the LC/LJ Torana. UC Torana fits ok, or most early commodores.

Ok so should i get an early commodore? Or the hq will be alright?

#67 _brendan_h_

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 12:56 PM

just got a throttle cable from rare spares. Going to try wrecker for a pedal today. So early commy pedal?

#68 _threeblindmice_

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 03:31 PM

At the risk of rocking the boat , I never ran oil in my dampers in my younger years , all that counts is full throttle !
If your worried about slowing down the rise,your in the wrong gear !

Edited by threeblindmice, 17 November 2009 - 03:36 PM.


#69 _brendan_h_

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 07:11 PM

i added oil and its much better from low rpm to full throttle now. think it may be a bit too heavy of an oil. you can sort of feel it realy take off after a split second

#70 _threeblindmice_

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 07:21 PM

Some of my mates used sewing machine oil .

#71 _brendan_h_

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 07:37 PM

Some of my mates used sewing machine oil .



yer was going to try air tool oil, whichc is basicly the same shit. how would i get the oil out of the dashpots?

#72 _mello92_

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 07:40 PM

Singer sewing machine oil is supposed to be close to the original grade oil made by SU.

Or you could find your local stockist for Penrite to chase this one up: http://www.penriteoi...l/su_damper_oil

Repco here put it in the too hard basket, but you may have more luck.

Failing that, ATF fuild is ok.


To get the oil out of the dampers, the only practical way I can see is to remove the 3 screws that hold the suction chamber on, then CAREFULLY remove the piston, being careful not to bend the needle, and tip it out. Clean it out with a rag to remove the rest of it.

If you put the same piston and suction chamber combo back on the same carb, I cant see how any settings are going to be affected.

Remeber to put oil back in them. :)

Edited by mello92, 17 November 2009 - 07:46 PM.


#73 rodomo

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 07:41 PM

how would i get the oil out of the dashpots?

Undo the chamber off the carby body.
Carefully lift the piston assembly out and tip the oil out.

#74 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 08:25 PM

Nearly everybody that tries SUs for the first time assumes that the SU-recommended oil is too thick and is preventing them from reaching full throttle quickly. It isn't and it doesn't. Test it at the strip and you'll soon find that thin oil like sewing machine oil or even ATF doesn't make it any quicker. About eleventy billion people have already been through this exercise.
Edit: If you really want to experiment with different oils (and you'll end up back at a 15 or 20 weight anyway) just hold a rag over the top and blow the oil out with an air hose.

Edited by oldjohnno, 17 November 2009 - 08:29 PM.


#75 _brendan_h_

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 07:06 AM

its got 15-40 motor oil. Should i change it?




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