Alternator
#1
Posted 06 April 2006 - 06:25 PM
#2
Posted 06 April 2006 - 07:14 PM
With regard to "the little black box" it has the brushes and regulator inbuilt. Replacing it may be only a short term fix as if the "slip rings" that the brushes run on are worn and/or oval they will wear again prematurely.
Edited by rodomo, 06 April 2006 - 07:20 PM.
#3 _J&S Racing_
Posted 06 April 2006 - 07:39 PM
#4
Posted 07 April 2006 - 02:51 PM
- the voltage at the battery with car running is 13.46
- the voltage at the thick wire (back of alternator) is 13.96
problem is untill the car is warm the revs sit low (no choke) and the voltage at the battery is just over 12. Other thing is when the lights are on and the fan is on high the voltage at the battery drops to 13 volts is this normal?
cheers
#5 _devilsadvocate_
Posted 07 April 2006 - 03:38 PM
What car is it, does the alternator wire go direct to the battery?thanks for the advice rodomo... i had a play around and found that:
- the voltage at the battery with car running is 13.46
- the voltage at the thick wire (back of alternator) is 13.96
problem is untill the car is warm the revs sit low (no choke) and the voltage at the battery is just over 12. Other thing is when the lights are on and the fan is on high the voltage at the battery drops to 13 volts is this normal?
cheers
See if you can see where you are losing the majority of the 0.5v. Is it across the terminals connecting the wire to the battery? and alternator or through the length of the wire itself.
If you are getting 13v at idle with the lights and fans on etc, thats fine for a standard alternator, but not for higher rpm.
#6
Posted 07 April 2006 - 04:40 PM
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