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sunbird diff

Started by hawk , Mar 01 2010 09:19 AM

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#26 rodomo

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 08:39 PM

Also when it changes too quickly im sure says their is a vac leak between the manifold and modulator on the back of the trans.

No vacuum to the modulator will make it change later.
It simulates wide open throttle.

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#27 hawk

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 08:42 PM

im not sure on the switch on the back of the tacho as we didnt do the conversion

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#28 LX2DR

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Posted 01 March 2010 - 08:48 PM

Also when it changes too quickly im sure says their is a vac leak between the manifold and modulator on the back of the trans.
No vacuum to the modulator will make it change later.
It simulates wide open throttle.

Just checking to see if your paying attention :tease:

I stand corrected :surrenderwave:

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#29 Heath

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 12:41 PM

UC clusters didn't have a switch like LH/LX - they just had a seperate cluster for 4s and 6s.

That's probably what the problem is - couldn't flick a switch so they just left it how it was. To have 5000rpm@100km/h with a 1:1 first you would need a rear end ratio of about 6:1 lol

Edited by Heath, 02 March 2010 - 12:43 PM.

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#30 _tweetytorana_

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 01:03 PM

When I went from 4 cyl to the 186 mine did the same, 5000rpm, couldn't drive it over 60kms, swapped the diff to 3.08 & it's been fine since, but mine was banjo...sits just under 3000 @ 100kms.

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#31 _moot_

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 01:46 PM

i had 4.44 in my vk with a 26" tyres and it was 4200rpm at 100kph.

either its second gear or the gearbox is slipping massively :badabing:

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#32 MRLXSS

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 02:23 PM

Which i reckon is spot on ^^

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#33 Heath

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 07:57 PM

Well that's just a little too conclusive isn't it?

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#34 rodomo

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Posted 02 March 2010 - 08:17 PM

UC clusters didn't have a switch like LH/LX - they just had a seperate cluster for 4s and 6s.

This is from this forum a long time ago. Author unknown.
I'm pretty sure this is the fix for running a 6cyl engine to a 4cyl tacho.

"Go to dick smith electronics and ask for a 100k Potentiometer, Cut the - wire that runs to your coil and solder the potentiometer inline, run the car and turn the potentiometer with a screw driver or by hand Depending on what style it is, Really its like a VOLUME Control"

You would use another tacho to adjust against.