body control module just to be different lol
VS Commodore issues.
Started by
_mello92_
, Mar 10 2010 01:06 AM
50 replies to this topic
#27
Collo
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Posted 12 March 2010 - 11:11 PM
^I've never had one of these go on me, but have done the CAS in every commodore I've had. 
#28
_mello92_
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Posted 14 March 2010 - 08:04 PM
We tried and tried, but couldnt get that damper off.
But the C.A.S. cost us $80.
Sooo......lets give it to someone else to fix, eh?
Cheers for the help fellas, that 'cool it down with water' trick works a treat.
But the C.A.S. cost us $80.
Sooo......lets give it to someone else to fix, eh?
Cheers for the help fellas, that 'cool it down with water' trick works a treat.
#29
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Posted 14 March 2010 - 09:45 PM
You need a big 3 jaw gear puller. That's what I use anyway.
$80 for a CAS? Faaarrrrk....
$80 for a CAS? Faaarrrrk....
#30
_mello92_
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Posted 14 March 2010 - 09:55 PM
Yeah I big a*se puller, but the problem is getting the bolt undone.... 
#31
Collo
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Posted 14 March 2010 - 10:06 PM
I put a big arse breaker bar on the bolt and the other end on the chassis rail and kick the engine to crack it. But a bit of pipe on a normal ratchet would work as well.
Just make sure it's on the correct side of the engine bay to undo the bolt, not tighten it...
Just make sure it's on the correct side of the engine bay to undo the bolt, not tighten it...
#32
_mello92_
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Posted 14 March 2010 - 11:08 PM
LOL, I had that thought! But was afraid Id break something!
Oh wait! I did! One SWG 1/2" breaker bar. Cracked the head off it. Lifetime warranty means a new one for free.
Dont diss the SWG stuff though. That 1/2" socket set has been through hell and the only thing that has broken has been the bar. Maybe because there was a piece of pipe on it.........
I still use my Sidchrome anyday.
Oh wait! I did!
One SWG 1/2" breaker bar. Cracked the head off it. Lifetime warranty means a new one for free. Dont diss the SWG stuff though. That 1/2" socket set has been through hell and the only thing that has broken has been the bar. Maybe because there was a piece of pipe on it.........
I still use my Sidchrome anyday.
#33
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Posted 14 March 2010 - 11:52 PM
Yeah I've only done it with a breaker bar that reaches the rail. Dunno where I got it from but it's come in handy.
#34
_robrenjus_
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Posted 15 March 2010 - 01:18 PM
Just make sure it's on the correct side of the engine bay to undo the bolt, not tighten it...
[/quote]
no matter which way you put the breaker bar you cannot tighten the crank bolt unless you can get the motor to spin backwards lol. but if you face the handle toward the drivers side you may risk it flying off and hitting the bonnet or something. plus ive replaced a bazzillion of those C.A.S and sometimes those bolts are very very tight (rattle guns often struggle ).good luck
[/quote]
no matter which way you put the breaker bar you cannot tighten the crank bolt unless you can get the motor to spin backwards lol. but if you face the handle toward the drivers side you may risk it flying off and hitting the bonnet or something. plus ive replaced a bazzillion of those C.A.S and sometimes those bolts are very very tight (rattle guns often struggle ).good luck
#35
_wayneo_
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Posted 15 March 2010 - 02:01 PM
another thing that could be wrong is the cam angle sensor, i replaced my crank angle sensor twice thinking that has to be it and it was a cam angle sensor WTF, its hidden away behind the water pump. god i use to love it every morning breaking down on the way to work in nearly the same spot everyday, pull over have a smoke or 2 then she would run again!!
#36
_mello92_
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Posted 15 March 2010 - 03:21 PM
Its ok fellas, the car has been booked into a mechanic so he can sort it out.
I did have a go with the rattle gun first, it obviously didnt work either.
I did have a go with the rattle gun first, it obviously didnt work either.
#37
_wraith75_
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Posted 15 March 2010 - 09:27 PM
$80 for a C.R.S FARRRRRK had a look at work on saterday and there $56 .
#38
_mello92_
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Posted 15 March 2010 - 09:33 PM
Im not complaining.
You need the part.
You dont care what it costs.
Its that simple.
You need the part.
You dont care what it costs.
Its that simple.
#39
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Posted 16 March 2010 - 12:06 AM
[quote name='robrenjus' date='15 March 2010 - 01:18 PM' timestamp='1268623125' post='490219']
Just make sure it's on the correct side of the engine bay to undo the bolt, not tighten it...
[/quote]
no matter which way you put the breaker bar you cannot tighten the crank bolt unless you can get the motor to spin backwards lol. but if you face the handle toward the drivers side you may risk it flying off and hitting the bonnet or something. plus ive replaced a bazzillion of those C.A.S and sometimes those bolts are very very tight (rattle guns often struggle ).good luck
[/quote]
Good point. That's just me not thinking.
Just make sure it's on the correct side of the engine bay to undo the bolt, not tighten it...
[/quote]
no matter which way you put the breaker bar you cannot tighten the crank bolt unless you can get the motor to spin backwards lol. but if you face the handle toward the drivers side you may risk it flying off and hitting the bonnet or something. plus ive replaced a bazzillion of those C.A.S and sometimes those bolts are very very tight (rattle guns often struggle ).good luck
[/quote]
Good point. That's just me not thinking.
#40
_Gunmetal LH_
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Posted 17 March 2010 - 05:32 PM
If you have too much in the way to rest the breaker bar on a chassis rail, put the handle of the bar near the ground. Turn the power steering pump over with a screwdriver till the slack is taken up at he bar. Crank it for like a 1/4 of a sec. May take 2 or 3 goes to get it to budge.
DO NOT get a mate to hold it in position!
DO NOT get a mate to hold it in position!
#42
_robrenjus_
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Posted 17 March 2010 - 08:56 PM
LOL, easy fellas, its been fixed!
AND.... WAS IT THE CRANK ANGLE SENSOR??
#43
_mello92_
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Posted 17 March 2010 - 10:06 PM
WELL THE CRANK ANGLE SENSOR HAS BEEN REPLACED BUT I HAVENT TESTED IT YET SO I DONT KNOW IF ITS SOLVED THE PROBLEM.
MY BROTHER SAID THAT IT WAS FINE WHEN HE DROVE IT HOME!!
hahaha, enough caps for one night!
MY BROTHER SAID THAT IT WAS FINE WHEN HE DROVE IT HOME!!
hahaha, enough caps for one night!
#44
_mello92_
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Posted 25 March 2010 - 04:17 PM
To update - the car has been fine until this afternoon.
Didnt start again, when hot. Poured 2 litres of water over it and away I went.
Didnt start again, when hot.
Poured 2 litres of water over it and away I went.
#45
FastEHHolden
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Posted 25 March 2010 - 06:45 PM
warranty job on the sensor...it should come apart easy enough for you to do now.
#47
_beergut_
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Posted 25 March 2010 - 07:12 PM
check for cracks in the wiring mate did all the above to a friends vn and traced it to this
although a match and a rag works on every crummydoor i've ever seen lol
although a match and a rag works on every crummydoor i've ever seen lol
#48
GML-31
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Posted 25 March 2010 - 07:18 PM
sure the plug to sensor just isnt corroded and making connection dicky?
#49
_mello92_
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Posted 25 March 2010 - 07:37 PM
Josh - no I havent sorry.
Kev - I dont know, I didnt replace it, on the check list though.
Will have a poke around this weekend. Have got some time, I think.
Thanks again lads.
Kev - I dont know, I didnt replace it, on the check list though.
Will have a poke around this weekend. Have got some time, I think.
Thanks again lads.
#50
rodomo
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Posted 25 March 2010 - 07:49 PM
Have a read of this thread Mello:
http://www.gmh-toran...=0
A couple of other things to try are swapping the fuel pump and e.f.i relays with ones that have done less work (e.g horn relay) if every thing in the c.a.s. circuit is o.k.
http://www.gmh-toran...=0
A couple of other things to try are swapping the fuel pump and e.f.i relays with ones that have done less work (e.g horn relay) if every thing in the c.a.s. circuit is o.k.
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