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making my diff/tailshaft stronger


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#1 _efi-202_

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Posted 21 April 2006 - 02:24 PM

i have an LC with a standard banjo diff which has about 10deg play in the tailshaft. Since putting a new motor in im worried about damaging the driveline. New gearbox and clutch have also been put in. what are other's experiences with breaking components? what is most common to break first, diff, axles, uni joints?

#2 Evan

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Posted 21 April 2006 - 03:48 PM

ya diff will blow up and screw axles. ive done heaps of this even on stock engine.

tailshaft should be fine provided you have good uni joints.

all depends how many ponies you have and how you drive it.

get a boarg warner or a 9inch put in if you want relyability.

Evan....

#3 FastEHHolden

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Posted 21 April 2006 - 11:56 PM

You must be hard on things....I stuffed my first diff this week and replaced it today...and that was cause it ran without oil...I have replaced one before but it just needs an adjustment and may go back in if its needed.

I have done an axle before but that was due to having 205/65 15's on a 3.08 diff with a 173 taking off on a slight hill....bit to much shock involved.


It the axles that go first (shock), Final drive gears (shock), side gears/differential gears (shock and burnouts), unis (lack of lube and shock)

Basically they go alright if you don't drop the clutch on them.

#4 _munro_

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Posted 22 April 2006 - 12:37 AM

efi202
10degrees play is that in the uni's or diff
if you have that much backlash in the diff you may wana check out your diff centre

cheers tom

#5 gtrboyy

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Posted 22 April 2006 - 01:51 AM

It's normally the diff that breaks first unless you have a locker then you start to twist axles as well.If your car has grunt it's better to take off easy then feed the power into it,that way the banjo will live longer.With a banjo & a done-up six you can make a banjo last 3mins,3months or 3years if it has been rebuilt right & depending on the way you drive.I've changed to a b/w diff which is a lot more reliable,I should have done it a long time ago but I used to get banjos for next to nothing,set the backlash & put them in but after a while it becomes too tedious changing diff centres & relying on the nrma to tow the car home lol.

#6 _efi-202_

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Posted 22 April 2006 - 12:27 PM

there is 10 deg play in the diff. I try not to drop the clutch for the reason i want to get home :D i havnt broken a diff yet but with the new engine im just a little worried as it is a daily driver (but it gets a bit of curry). I also dont want to chase a banjo diff to suit an LC on my weekend just to get it on the road. lol.

gtrboyy: how much did it set u back to get a b/w to suit? im thinking about $1500- $2000 range?

#7 gtrboyy

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Posted 23 April 2006 - 02:18 AM

My set up cost about $2000 all up b/w,lsd,3.9,3in t/shaft & h/brake mods but I did get the diff for free.You should be able to do it for the same,maybe even less b/c putting a 3in t/shaft created a few problems so a 2.5in t/shaft should be ok with a six.If I still had my six I would have looked into putting a hilux diff in providing that you can find a model that would be the correct length.

#8 mrlctorana

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Posted 25 April 2006 - 06:17 PM

I just put in a 9inch and 3 inch shaft with bigger uni's cost around $2000 all up. Bought the housing and 31 spline axels for $1300, mini-spool I had and just fitted to a reco'd 9inch center off ebay for $495. Tailshaft was out of a statesman and I already had a V8 supra yoke and new uni for the front of the shaft then bought a 3inch yoke and uni to suit the diff center $85.

Fairly Cheap and bulletproof behind my six,

Cheers

Les




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