front end rebuild for LX
#1
Posted 28 May 2010 - 07:59 PM
has anyone got a picture of a LX V8 front end that can show me what bushes are what
looking to get a quote on a rebuild and want to make sure that i replace every thing
where should i use rubber and nolathane/super pro
also approx labour cost to do
thanks
#2 _robslxhatch_
Posted 28 May 2010 - 09:05 PM
#3 _SS Hatchback_
Posted 28 May 2010 - 09:30 PM
#4 _BCR42Y_
Posted 28 May 2010 - 09:37 PM
LCA
UCA
Cross Member
Edited by BCR42Y, 28 May 2010 - 09:41 PM.
#5 _SS Hatchback_
Posted 28 May 2010 - 10:01 PM
#7 _glenn l_
Posted 29 May 2010 - 10:26 AM
#8 _robslxhatch_
Posted 29 May 2010 - 11:36 AM
#9
Posted 29 May 2010 - 11:47 AM
Only 4 cross member mounts (2 piece bushes) and 2 outrigger (1 piece bushes) ...?the 8 x-member mounts and the 4 x-member out rigger bushes
#10
Posted 29 May 2010 - 12:12 PM
I re bushed my k-frame in 91 with all rubber bushes except for the lower control arm rear bush which takes the most load under braking. The lower control arm rear bush was replace with a Superpro comfort setting bush. When I pulled the suspension are a couple of years ago the rubber bushes were worn but still ok and the SuperPro bush was like new.
This time I have replaced both lower bushes with SuperPro, I am still undecided about the uppers. WA Suspensions recommend rubber uppers for street and I keep hearing that polyurethane is too hard. If find this difficult to understand as greased steel bushes where used by holden until the introduction of the rubber bush in the HT.
#11 _Squarepants_
Posted 29 May 2010 - 05:29 PM
Just speaking from my experiences. I'm no expert but I have been playing with the suspension in my LH for the last 13 or so years. I run 40 profile tyres on 17" rims and the ride quality is excellent. Don't let anyone tell you that poly's make the ride unbearable!
I've heard Noltech (sp?) are ok too.
#12
Posted 29 May 2010 - 11:38 PM
SuperPro bushes are typically available in three hardness grades Comfort, Sports and Competition.
They recommend a specific combination which is different for the front and rear bushes in each lower arm - can't remember exactly what it is at present but it makes senseIn the lower arms use the 70 duro in the rear pivots and the 80 or 90 duro in the front pivots.
#13
Posted 30 May 2010 - 02:08 AM
Comfort
Front
Lower Front SPF2121-90K
Lower Rear SPF2121-70K
Rear
Lower trailing arm SPF2121-70K
Upper Tailing arm SPF2121-70K
Sports
Front
Lower Front SPF2121-90K
Lower Rear SPF2121-80K
Rear
Lower trailing arm SPF2121-70K
Upper Tailing arm SPF2121-70K
Competition
Front
Lower Front
Lower Rear
Rear
Lower trailing arm SPF2121-90K
Upper Tailing arm SPF2121-70K
#14 _cruiza_
Posted 30 May 2010 - 09:17 AM
Issues I had in that time were upper control arm bushes wearing out, rubber lasted best neolathane not so well.
What I had was:
Solid bushes sub frame to chassis, except rear lower (rubber).
Steering rack solid mounted
Lower control arms, Neopreme, (very hard orange)
Upper control arms rubber seemed to be best
Shocks were Koni revalued and adjusted to hardest setting
Lowells springs, standard height, I had HQ stubs so car sat very low anyway, 100mm clearance
Sway bar was Lovells front mounted unit using supplied bushes.
Car was very stiff even with my weight I could not jump on the car and get it to move more then a 30mm (trust me that is firm)
Ok all that sounds like a recipe for a rough harsh riding car, it wasn't
In fact most who rode in the car having heard seen how stiffly sprung it was were very surprised at how nicely the car rode firm, yes but not harsh and very precise.
One thing I did find was I had to keep on top of maintenance, if anything was worn shocks, bearing etc you could really feel it, same with wheel alignment.
for the record rear setup :
lower arms un-boxed, soft neopreme (grey)
Upper rear arms rubber
Shocks Koni hardest setting then backed off one full turn
Springs Lovells
Wheels were 14 inch by 7 and 8s on the rear and tires 60 series 225 on the front and 50 series 245s on the rear so that added to the comfort factor
If I was doing it again I would do it exactly the same
#15
Posted 30 May 2010 - 01:31 PM
I was only just last month I eventually had to change the upper arm bushes as they had shown signs of wear.
From the begining I wanted to be sure the uppers would go the distance as they are a bigger job to replace
and as far as comfort goes they are not a concern.
I decided to the Superpro uppers this time (time will tell but I have my suspicions).
I also changed the steering flex joint too as a precaution.
All the other nolathane bushes are still going strong.Im especially surprised at the LCA bushes condition
considering the pressure the uprated springs.
On my SLR I have used mackay rubber lower arm bushes A1202(front LCA) & A1203(rear LCA) which are the exact replacement
for the RTS UC front LCA so I get a more comfortable ride than the hatch.
On the UCA's I went with the Nolathane again simply for longevity and wheel alignment accuracy.
While I have bought Nolathane subframe bushes I'm still undecided and may go rubber.
I want comfort for the stock SLR but I have reservations about using looser rubber on the subframe
when Im using nolathane on the flexjoint and the long term wear on the steering rack with afront end that
will have the tendency to float around more.
#16 _glenn l_
Posted 31 May 2010 - 08:17 AM
Only 4 cross member mounts (2 piece bushes) and 2 outrigger (1 piece bushes) ...?
the 8 x-member mounts and the 4 x-member out rigger bushes
yes you are correct but 4x2=8 and if you use poly the out riggers are 2 piece bushes making 4.
#17
Posted 31 May 2010 - 11:59 AM
#18
Posted 09 June 2010 - 09:01 PM
can the bushes be removed & replaced on site ?
or will they need to be taken to away to workshop with a press
thanks
#19 _robslxhatch_
Posted 09 June 2010 - 10:57 PM
will the front k frame need to be dropped to change the top and outrigger bushes
can the bushes be removed & replaced on site ?
or will they need to be taken to away to workshop with a press
thanks
they can be done in the car with a bit of work if the new bushes are 2 piece they are easy to fit .the original ones usually come out without too much trouble .if you use 1 piece ones they may require a bit of mucking around to get them in.if you are not confident then it might pay someone to put em in for you.
#20
Posted 10 June 2010 - 07:14 AM
Cut the old rubber outrigger bushes, they will come out easy then. Lube the new ones and they are not too bad to get in.
#21
Posted 11 June 2010 - 03:07 AM
will the front k frame need to be dropped to change the top and outrigger bushes
can the bushes be removed & replaced on site ?
or will they need to be taken to away to workshop with a press
thanks
they can be done in the car with a bit of work if the new bushes are 2 piece they are easy to fit .the original ones usually come out without too much trouble .
2 piece upper bush? Stop it, your scaring me.
#22
Posted 11 June 2010 - 03:51 PM
#23 _robslxhatch_
Posted 22 September 2010 - 09:17 PM
i didn't read that right , i meant the outrigger bushes only , if you wanted to do the TOP bushes better to drop the x-member .And i might add that you can get either one or two piece outrigger bushes depending on the brand .
will the front k frame need to be dropped to change the top and outrigger bushes
can the bushes be removed & replaced on site ?
or will they need to be taken to away to workshop with a press
thanks
they can be done in the car with a bit of work if the new bushes are 2 piece they are easy to fit .the original ones usually come out without too much trouble .
2 piece upper bush? Stop it, your scaring me.
#24 _Gunmetal LH_
Posted 25 September 2010 - 06:59 PM
Why all rubber? More 'give'- Adelaide roads...
Though I got the 2 outrigger bushes in nolathane (one piece) as they weren't available in rubber at the time.
Edited by Gunmetal LH, 25 September 2010 - 07:00 PM.
#25
Posted 27 September 2010 - 11:51 AM
The material that a few bushes of those bushes are made of probably doesn't make a huge difference, but I think any opportunity to stop a car from being soft as shit during suspension actuation should be grasped.
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