Degreaser, scraper then wire wheel. Overalls, safety goggles, dust mask - great fun.
You can do mine when you've finished if you like.
I'll even supply the Band Aids.
painting floor pan black ?
Started by
_A9XOSS_
, May 28 2010 11:10 PM
51 replies to this topic
#27
_Quagmire_
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Posted 19 August 2013 - 02:43 PM
your a gentleman and a scholar mark lol
#28
Posted 19 August 2013 - 06:44 PM
Sadly its mostly elbow grease and lots of hours; I've never been much good at it either!
#29
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 19 August 2013 - 06:49 PM
Some old stale petrol is fantastic for getting all the original GMH stuff off, with a scotch brite (or 10!!) and a paint scraper...Make sure you wear a Sundstrom style mask, petrol fumes are not the best after a while.....
Cheers.
#30
_LS1 Taxi_
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Posted 19 August 2013 - 06:53 PM
I did mine with a wire wheel on a high speed hand drill and the hard to reach bits with a wire brush.
It was actually way easier than I expected. Definitely get some disposable coveralls, good mask, goggles etc...
Messy shit.
#31
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Posted 19 August 2013 - 07:05 PM
Acetone!
#32
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Posted 19 August 2013 - 07:58 PM
I painted the under side and the inside of my car with black kill rust using a brush.Inside's covered with carpet and the under side will only be seen on a hoist but each to their own
#33
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Posted 19 August 2013 - 08:32 PM
Petrol is the only way to go, scraper and scotch brite.
As said earlier most will scrape off in brittle flakes the rest needs to be soaked in petrol, I used a spray bottle but make sure theres no electricity around ie power tools and whatever you do don't smoke. 
Just finished mine and it took about 2 weekends to get it scraped, sanded and epoxied
Hope this gives you (hope)
#34
TerrA LX
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Posted 19 August 2013 - 08:33 PM
Kero works well but you have to scrub.
#36
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Posted 19 August 2013 - 09:03 PM
Haha yeh it looks to good to cover up with stone guard, nice stuff that epotech 408 epoxy, at least shes pretty water and corrosion resistant now, just need to seam seal it and bobs your uncle.
Certainly worth the effort.
cheers
#37
_Yella-5000_
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Posted 19 August 2013 - 10:24 PM
sh*t thats just what mine looks like until tomorrow,,, and whats with the left rail on these things ?? mine was the very same too i guess everyone used it to jack the car up at some point, but why not the right side
Rails all seem to get bashed in like that, both left and right sides. Can be fixed by cutting a section of floor pan out from above (he worked out after he painted the whole thing), and knocking the rails back out with a hammer and block of steel.
Cleaning underneath? There is no easy method. I used a scraper, then wire brush, some thinners, and finally some wax and grease remover, prior to going all over with 60, 120, 400 grit wet and dry. Took forever, but yeah, I like the result. Whatever you do, it's gonna be better than from factory.
For this particular car, I want to see anything that is leaking, dripping, or splashing up under the car, so white was best. Don't know what I'd do it on a road car. If it was Yella, I'd go GMH Black, as it has the black sills and engine bay being an LH. Dunno about other models. Is there any other model Torana?
Edited by Yella-5000, 19 August 2013 - 10:26 PM.
#38
_ohhgeee_
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Posted 20 August 2013 - 09:15 AM
i tried some supercheap paint stripper yesterday it works pretty well but is a b**ch to work with since the entire time its trying to kill you in one way or another.
also tried one of those rapid disc thingys and that got through it pretty well but doesnt get into tighter spots.
i can rent a 9bar steam cleaner from alexandria nsw $160 was thinking of giving that a go next...
might have to buy a rotisserie....anybody in nsw wanna sell me one for a reasonable price?
#39
_Yella-5000_
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Posted 20 August 2013 - 06:57 PM
^ Whooley Dooley. Your going to a lot of trouble. You just need to clean and key what finish is under there so the paint will stick, no need to go back to bare metal.
Those paint stripping disks are good, but I didn't use one of those on the underside.
#40
_ohhgeee_
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Posted 20 August 2013 - 11:01 PM
thanks for the reality check Yella
maybe i am going abit overboard and in too deep.
i just want a neat look thats all
#41
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Posted 21 August 2013 - 08:22 AM
If you are buying paint and penal consumables then steer clear of SC and head over to http://www.vgautopaints.com.au/
PS they also hold a free one day crash course that you can book into thru the web site.
#42
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Posted 21 August 2013 - 12:12 PM
TerrA do you work for VG auto paints?
#43
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Posted 21 August 2013 - 02:03 PM
Haha, no.
#44
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Posted 21 August 2013 - 05:56 PM
i tried some supercheap paint stripper yesterday it works pretty well but is a b**ch to work with since the entire time its trying to kill you in one way or another.
also tried one of those rapid disc thingys and that got through it pretty well but doesnt get into tighter spots.
i can rent a 9bar steam cleaner from alexandria nsw $160 was thinking of giving that a go next...
might have to buy a rotisserie....anybody in nsw wanna sell me one for a reasonable price?
Yeh you don't need to strip it completely just key it up after you remove the original sound deadenener.
Like I said after many attempts at various things, petrol in a spray bottle worked way better then anything else. You just need a heap of old rags as well.
Also like said steer clear of Sc stuff go to a pro paint store for the real deal, I use OVESCO they are my local PPG supplier and can get any product you need. I also use AUTOLAC at Cardiff Newcastle for stuff like POR15 and paint consumables.
As for the rotisserie, the one in my pictures above I made in one weekend and only cost $240.00 for brand new steel, got the wheels for free but was cheap and easy to do.
Will save your back that's for sure.
Anyways good luck with it.
#45
_likatiger_
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Posted 21 August 2013 - 07:58 PM
I had mine sand blasted, am sending it off to a mates workshop this weekend to get the welding done then will be priming the whole car, gmh black on the underbody then putting stoneguard over that.
#46
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 21 August 2013 - 08:07 PM
Can i recommend doing it the other way around, ie Primer-stoneguard-gmh black.......Or if you want the stone guard finish then skip the gmh black...
#47
slar
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Posted 21 August 2013 - 08:37 PM
Bomber nailed it
#49
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Posted 21 August 2013 - 10:36 PM
Anyone tried the Upol Raptor? It's a two Pack product normally used in the trays of utes. Was talking to the local paint guy and he said it was tough as nails and ideal for painting the underneath. Far superior to the water based type stone guards he thought. The finish is like a coarse sandpaper and comes in black or can be tinted to any colour. Wasn't that cheap, would cost around $200 to do the whole underside.
#50
_Lazarus_
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Posted 21 August 2013 - 11:01 PM
I don't know about stoneguard but I found that if you paint over sound deadener it loses its flexibility and is prone to crack.
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