Re-bushing door hinges
#1
Posted 02 June 2010 - 10:06 PM
I believe Rare Spares do kits to fix up the play in the pins... what tools are required, how well does it work, has anyone done it successfully and used the car for a while afterwards? Does the kit come with instructions? and is it particularly hard to do? how much will it cost for the kit to cover three hinges? should I paint them before I do the refurbishing, while they are dis-assembled or after i have refurbished them?
Or does someone just want to sell me some front LH/LX/UC hinges that have no play? lol
Cheers
#2
Posted 02 June 2010 - 10:15 PM
No rocket science involved.
I did boy's hatch ones, both sides, no drama.
A bit tight initially but thats how you want them. They soon free up.
Price inc GST($AUD) : $32.89 KIT per front door
Price inc GST($AUD) : $25.85 KIT per rear door
Looks like they're doing c/o hinges as well.
#3
Posted 03 June 2010 - 10:27 AM
#4
Posted 03 June 2010 - 11:24 AM
Might just machine some up myself if I can get accurate dimensions
#5 _mello92_
Posted 03 June 2010 - 11:37 AM
But it states they also suit HQ-WB.
Go to the WB section - door components and you will find that you can just buy sets of bushes.
$4.40/ rear door - Product code: CP1177
$15.40/front door - product code: CP1178
Still a bloody rip off though.
Odd coincidence that you brought this up, cause Ive got to do the same to the tonner's doors.
Edited by mello92, 03 June 2010 - 11:38 AM.
#6 _sbc57lx_
Posted 03 June 2010 - 01:16 PM
This is what I've used to fix the door hinges.. If the front guards are keep in place, removing the doors with the hinges attached is a bit of a pain .. ( most likely need a extra set of hands )
the rest is EASY .....Just make sure you clean the pins and the holes where the bushes press in - remove any rust / paint ETC, those bronze bushes are a little tight and can spit if too much force is used ..
#7
Posted 03 June 2010 - 02:46 PM
I'm thinking it might be wise to pull them all down and take some measurements to find out what I actually need, and whether I can just get some phosphor bronze and turn some up.
#8 _mello92_
Posted 03 June 2010 - 02:48 PM
Pull them apart and have a looksie at whats actually buggered man.
#9 _darrenmark1_
Posted 03 June 2010 - 03:04 PM
Daz
#10 _TJ308_
Posted 03 June 2010 - 03:08 PM
Edited by TJ308, 03 June 2010 - 03:08 PM.
#11 _greenmachine215_
Posted 03 June 2010 - 03:12 PM
But at the end of it theres that 1976 feel to opening and closing the door!
#12
Posted 03 June 2010 - 05:31 PM
Thanks for the responses, did you guys replace the pins too or just put those new bushes in? Did you lubricate the bushes at all or just let the material do the job?
#13 _brett_32i_
Posted 03 June 2010 - 08:28 PM
mine were std torry and were bronze/brass whatever, not plastic?
i had new ones turned up out of ally by someone else, for nothing. so i know your own time is cheap heath, but for $5 a bush i wouldnt bother. just buy them.
#14 _310LX_
Posted 03 June 2010 - 09:25 PM
A pic for you.......................
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#15
Posted 03 June 2010 - 11:38 PM
What a bloody rip off. What does the kit include?
Yes, you would probably be better off looking on e-bay for unknown hinges at around $40 each..........................................Wouldn't you?
#16
Posted 05 June 2010 - 01:49 PM
I'm thinking it might be wise to pull them all down and take some measurements to find out what I actually need, and whether I can just get some phosphor bronze and turn some up.
Read up first. I think brass would be better? Harder than bronze I think?
#17
Posted 22 June 2010 - 02:11 PM
I popped the pins out and measured it all up, they are fine, the bushes are just stuffed. My ones are plastic, like all the others I've seen.
Anyway instead of spending $65 for the whole 'kit' at Rare Spares, I had a chat to the bloke there and he'll sell me 8 brass bushes for just over $25 so that's much better! I'll get some of those shortly, might do a little tech article on installing them too if people are interested.
#18
Posted 10 July 2010 - 04:57 PM
Assembled it with a silicone-based lubricant, mine are already painted so I don't have the same problem as 310LX. They are quite tight but I'm sure they will be good once on the car.
#19
Posted 15 January 2016 - 02:06 PM
Hi, I am in the process of re-bushing/pinning my hinges and just want to double check before I do something wrong. My hinges had the plastic bushes which are a lot thinner than the replacement brass ones and as such I am having difficulty getting them back in. I want to check, before I stuff it up, should I file the flange area down, as per Heath's method, or should I try to humour (read bash) them in. Cheers Ron
#20 _1965mjr_
Posted 16 January 2016 - 07:46 AM
Cheers Mark
#21
Posted 16 January 2016 - 12:45 PM
Thanks Mark. My problem is I've already bought new pins and bushes. Might try Heath's method and see how I go, if no good I'll get some plastic bushes. Cheers Ron
#22
Posted 17 January 2016 - 01:03 PM
#23 _00UCT_
Posted 27 January 2016 - 07:14 PM
#24
Posted 27 January 2016 - 09:36 PM
But I don't actually know the answer to your question.
Edited by Heath, 27 January 2016 - 09:37 PM.
#25
Posted 28 January 2016 - 05:43 AM
I've just replaced my bushes with brass ones and new pins but having a hatch, no issue with rear doors LOL. I did as per Heath's advice and it worked really well. Only issue I would see if you don't want to fully remove the hinges from the car it could be awkward, as it's not easy to get the pins out without some force then, when I filed down I did a bit then checked then did a bit again so I only filed down enough to firmly tap the hinges together. Also you need to hit the pins fairly hard to get them pressed in fully. Really happy with the end result and after seeing it, my panel guy says he will recommend it to more to his customers, so can't be too bad. Cheers Ron
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