Stereo cuts out on a beat

Righteo,

All connections are good, earths are solid, just went through all them.

Cranked it to 3/4 volume without a problem, and thats a lot higher than I go when Im driving.

Ran it constantly for 10 mins without a problem, at the same volume I use on the road, or higher, and it didnt get hot. This amp has 2 fans, and yes, they get enough air.

Fuses are clean, all the stereo wiring was bought new 2 or so months ago, so its not that.

Still dont have a earth from battery neg to body though.

Should I put one on? What gauge cable?

Edited by mello92, 05 June 2010 - 02:51 PM.

BIG!

Bomber Watson:
Dont mount amps upside down.

The heat sinks are on the top not the bottom, and hot air rises...Dah.

If its upside down you will have a blanket of hot air in it.

Wherever you got your info from....Was wrong.

Cheers.


Have you changed the amp location? While it's running the boot may be getting warm from engine bay air blowing under the car plus exhaust? May be too much for those little fans to work properly?

No, amp location is still the same.

Frock, are you telling me I have to re-locate me amp? Frock.

Plus its usually 30+ degrees here in direct sunlight....

BTW:- Did a bit of a test the other day.

With the stereo up to the point where it cuts out, lights on highbeam, wipers on and the fan on, I get 13-13.3V across the battery.

Turn everything off and I get 13.9V.



Cheers for the help.

I assume this was with the engine running at idle? If so it means that the alternator is probably okay.

You have established that the stereo cuts out when the voltage drops to 13.3V? so does the stereo work at all without the engine running?

Why problems now and not before, perhaps your body return to earth has deteriorated with the high load you have placed upon whatever weak connection is making the return path now.

Measure the voltage between the -ve terminal of the battery and the body when you have the stereo cranking, if you have any more than 0.2V the earth is dodgy

Given that the earth contact maybe intermittent, definitely make a good earth(of at least the current rating of all your loads except for the starter) between the battery and the front chassis rail to rule out that possibility.

You dont at this stage know whether your problem is head unit or amp?

Perhaps run an ipod direct into the amp and see if you get the same problem happening.

Edited by torbirdie, 05 June 2010 - 03:48 PM.

I assume this was with the engine running at idle? If so it means that the alternator is probably okay. - No, those values were maximums, right upto 5000rpm anyway.

You have established that the stereo cuts out when the voltage drops to 13.3V? - Not all the time though. Just had it at more than 3/4 volume with the engine idling and it was fine, heavy bass song too. Had a multimeter across the terminals at the same time reading 12.9-13.1V. so does the stereo work at all without the engine running? - Yes.

Why problems now and not before, perhaps your body return to earth has deteriorated with the high load you have placed upon whatever weak connection is making the return path now.

Measure the voltage between the -ve terminal of the battery and the body when you have the stereo cranking, if you have any more than 0.2V the earth is dodgy - Interesting. Just had the stereo working fine at more than 3/4 volume (trust me, its loud) and the voltage between the negative terminal and body was 0.7-0.8V.

Given that the earth contact maybe intermittent, definitely make a good earth(of at least the current rating of all your loads except for the starter) between the battery and the front chassis rail to rule out that possibility. - Ive got more 4 gauge cable, rekon that will do?

You dont at this stage know whether your problem is head unit or amp? - Thinking its amp related due to the the content of replies here. Besides, this head unit hasnt been changed, just the amp.

Perhaps run an ipod direct into the amp and see if you get the same problem happening. - How do you do that?

I wouldn't mount an amp upside down, that's about the only position I would not. Unless you can have those fans constantly on with ignition? 'Too cold' is not a concern.

Perhaps a mount vertical/sideways under your parcel shelf?



Quote:
Measure the voltage between the -ve terminal of the battery and the body when you have the stereo cranking, if you have any more than 0.2V the earth is dodgy - Interesting. Just had the stereo working fine at more than 3/4 volume (trust me, its loud) and the voltage between the negative terminal and body was 0.7-0.8V.

Seems too high to me?

Peter, what exactly is that does that value represent?

What I could do is...and what I would like to do...is to mount this 4chl amp under the front passenger seat, run the 2 6x9's and get 2 6" speakers (to put in the front doors) out of it, and get a decent sized mono amp to power the sub.

Sorta what like nial8r suggested.

Cause, really, if your in the front, you cant really hear the stereo unless its that loud that it deafens the rear passengers.

Bloody money. grrrrr

torbirdie: Measure the voltage between the -ve terminal of the battery and the body when you have the stereo cranking, if you have any more than 0.2V the earth is dodgy.

mello92: Still dont have a earth from battery neg to body though.

It seems like your losing nearly a volt from the body to the battery. Can't be good? Put a BIG wire from the body to the battery. Another ground lead won't hurt anything, seeing as you have lights etc. and now a stereo + amp.




In my Kingswood, I put a speaker in each front kick panel. Might be an option to avoid cutting door trim panels?

Running 2 amps is up to you. A 5 channel amp will be good enough if your NOT trying to blow out your windows. I'd use 2 amps (1x 4channel for the speakers and 1x mono for the sub) if you want to really crank it up.

Edited by Gunmetal LH, 05 June 2010 - 05:16 PM.

Ok, will get some 2 gauge cable to run from battery negative to body. Not this weekend, and probs not next week.

Yeah, Ive thought about putting them in the kick panels, probs the better option now I think about it.

Just dont want to have feet resting against speakers all the time.

Put some decent grills over them and some cloth to keep out dirt and rocks from your shoes?

Ok ok, fine, if I put more speakers in, they'll be going in the kick panels. Cheers for your help mate!

No worries!

As long as you can flush-mount them. (Didn't think about that...)

Yeah, pretty sure you can, cause I remember there being a decent hole behind there...Ive had the kick panels off before.

I assume this was with the engine running at idle? If so it means that the alternator is probably okay. - No, those values were maximums, right upto 5000rpm anyway.

You have established that the stereo cuts out when the voltage drops to 13.3V? - Not all the time though. Just had it at more than 3/4 volume with the engine idling and it was fine, heavy bass song too. Had a multimeter across the terminals at the same time reading 12.9-13.1V. so does the stereo work at all without the engine running? - Yes.

Why problems now and not before, perhaps your body return to earth has deteriorated with the high load you have placed upon whatever weak connection is making the return path now.

Measure the voltage between the -ve terminal of the battery and the body when you have the stereo cranking, if you have any more than 0.2V the earth is dodgy - Interesting. Just had the stereo working fine at more than 3/4 volume (trust me, its loud) and the voltage between the negative terminal and body was 0.7-0.8V.

Given that the earth contact maybe intermittent, definitely make a good earth(of at least the current rating of all your loads except for the starter) between the battery and the front chassis rail to rule out that possibility. - Ive got more 4 gauge cable, rekon that will do?

You dont at this stage know whether your problem is head unit or amp? - Thinking its amp related due to the the content of replies here. Besides, this head unit hasnt been changed, just the amp.

Perhaps run an ipod direct into the amp and see if you get the same problem happening. - How do you do that?

0.7- 0.8V difference between -ve and body tells you your earth is not good enough, a short battery to body cable should bring that down to near immeasurable, that could make all the difference.

If your measured battery voltage drops to around 13V, with the batt to earth drop of 0.8V and possibly an equal drop in your battery to amp wire(goes the length of the car) you are possibly getting less than 11V across the amp, which could cause problems. (for confirmation: Measure the voltage between the power terminal of the amp and the body of the amp).

To connect up an ipod, you'll need an adaptor lead, 3.5mm stereo jack to stereo rca connectors, something like:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/3-5MM-Male-Audio-Stereo-2-Famale-RCA-Cable-Adapter-/320502315264?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Electronics_Accessories_Wires_Cables&hash=item4a9f6d3900
will do the trick.

Edited by torbirdie, 05 June 2010 - 07:10 PM.

Well, I will definitely be putting that -neg to body cable in!!

Had the system cranking loud for 40 mins or so tonight without a hitch.

Shit these make great cruising cars with ya mates!!