Is this weld ok?
#1 _Viper_
Posted 15 June 2010 - 06:57 PM
On this one I had actually already done a weld underneath... well I did a tack at each end then welded in the middle but I ended up with 3 seperate runs and it looked abit poo, so I ground the weld down to near on nothing then ran this bead
And this is a pic of the inside... The blue line on the left is from the weld in the first pic.
So does that blue line mean its got good penetration and is that how you tell if the weld is good? and you can see the line on the right the blue line stops before the end... does that mean that one doesnt have good penetration at the end?
Also in the first pic you can see at the end of the weld on the left the shape of the weld sort of changed to be more flatter... it seemed to do this every time. any idea what causes this? (ya will probly have to wait till I get a better quality pic to see what I mean.
Cheers guys.
#2 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 15 June 2010 - 07:04 PM
thats about all i know, and will probably be told im wrong, but the weld looks ok to me...
I'd be happy with it
Cheers.
#3 _hutch_
Posted 15 June 2010 - 07:53 PM
Phillip
#4 _BlownOutlaw_
Posted 15 June 2010 - 08:47 PM
Need a photo looking from the side along the weld. It doesn't look to bad from what I can see. If I had to pic something from those photos I would say there is a bit to much of the weld on the round section and not enough on the vertical section. But if you have done a couple of runs its difficult to tell from the pics. Its possibly not undercut, its just that there is three separate layers.
#5
Posted 15 June 2010 - 09:19 PM
#6
Posted 15 June 2010 - 11:00 PM
So does that blue line mean its got good penetration and is that how you tell if the weld is good? and you can see the line on the right the blue line stops before the end... does that mean that one doesnt have good penetration at the end?
Cheers guys.
Penetration means you can see the weld come thru the other side, the blue mark are only burn marks.
Also in the first pic you can see at the end of the weld on the left the shape of the weld sort of changed to be more flatter... it seemed to do this every time. any idea what causes this? (ya will probly have to wait till I get a better quality pic to see what I mean.
Cheers guys.
This is caused from less feed of the weld wire, causing the heat to rise, the weld pool is burning in further.
FWIW the welds look good but may not quite pass a test at TAFE for example due to the lack of penetration.
#7
Posted 15 June 2010 - 11:26 PM
FWIW the welds look good but may not quite pass a test at TAFE for example due to the lack of penetration.
I take that back, on closer inspection the weld appears to be sitting up, especially on the bracket you have welded onto the ring, this will lead to cracking or break away if it is loaded. Sorry.
Either not hot enough or really needs to be TIG welded based on not being able to eyeball it myself.
Either leave a gap for the weld to flow of chamfer the end to get the heat into the join.
#8 _Viper_
Posted 15 June 2010 - 11:27 PM
So There should actually be metal "bulging" thru the other side a little for 100% penetration? those burn marks would mean its pretty close tho eh? say 5mm out of the 6mm?
My welder was at its highest setting... for 6mm steel it said Power: 8 Wire feed: 16, But on the test welds I did on a scrap peice the wire speed seemed abit fast and was sounding like a machine gun, turning it down to 13 gave a nice crackle.... Higher wire speed would of given more penetration tho eh? I just have to move faster...
Oh and its all Mild steel btw.
This crossmember wont really be taking much weight, more being pushed back and forth... my upper control arm mounts are being welded to this crossmember.
The brackets still need to be cut down abit shorter and welded on so will be abit less leverage from them.
#9
Posted 15 June 2010 - 11:35 PM
Sounds overkill but thats engineering for ya.
If you grind into the present weld, concentrating on the band you should get the penetration needed.
Use a test piece.
Albeit, how it is presently may last forever, you seem to be capable enough.
You should weld it correctly for piece of mind in this application.
Edited by TerrA LX, 15 June 2010 - 11:38 PM.
#10 _Viper_
Posted 15 June 2010 - 11:57 PM
I might just take the peice down to my engineer before I paint it and see if he is happy
#11
Posted 16 June 2010 - 12:13 AM
Have you welded both sides of the plate to the ring?
#12
Posted 16 June 2010 - 01:12 AM
I doubt the welds will ever be under enough stress to fail. It looks like the mounting bolts will take the bulk of the load.
Agree with Ls2.
The weld taking the most load will be next to the bolts.
Edited by TerrA LX, 16 June 2010 - 01:13 AM.
#13 _Viper_
Posted 16 June 2010 - 07:54 AM
But yea was welded top and bottom... Ill get the other bits welded professionally with a higher powerd welder then
Cheers guys
#14 _SS Hatchback_
Posted 04 July 2010 - 11:56 PM
#15 _the gts_
Posted 05 July 2010 - 02:31 AM
you could throw a needle gun over it to de-stress it if you were keen
#16
Posted 05 July 2010 - 05:47 AM
Just a little of both.
#17
Posted 06 July 2010 - 02:05 PM
It is surprising what you can actually do with a home welder.
I have a hand me down from my brother - an old US unit that pumps bloody awesome running on 240V, hehehe cheaper just to "convert" them from 110V by changing plugs. Puts many other "lower" power units to shame.
If you can afford a gas-set to upgrade your own unit, do it as it will make it much easier to do even simple welding.
Grant..
#18 _Viper_
Posted 06 July 2010 - 10:38 PM
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