MMMmmmm, I just got a brand new ADRAD 3 core copper radiator for $330. Haven't fitted it yet, as I want to make a bracket for my thermos. Maybe worth considering if you decide to not go aluminium.
First one was rough and knocked around a bit, so I sent it back. Latest one is impecable. Little concerned about the position of the lower mounting hole, but top looks in the right position, might need a bit of attention from Mr. Drill.
PWR RADIATOR PROBLEMS
Started by
_methanoltorana_
, Jun 22 2010 08:52 PM
42 replies to this topic
#27
A9X
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Posted 13 July 2010 - 09:34 PM
I have had a PWR radiator in the hatch for almost 4 years and 5000 k's.
I can't say a bad word about it
I can't say a bad word about it
#28
_1uzbt1_
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Posted 14 July 2010 - 10:45 AM
yes,and tap water,instead of distilled,plus i had .3 of a volt stray current in the radiator.
Whoa, thats real high, no wonder it died.
Interesting enough ive found mixed coolants will give the same readings.
#29
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Posted 14 July 2010 - 06:27 PM
How do you measure the current in the coolant?
When i did i got about 1.4V by sticking a probe into the water (while hot) and the other to earth... Wonder if i did it right?
Oh.. and i run 90%+ straight GMH green concentrate.
When i did i got about 1.4V by sticking a probe into the water (while hot) and the other to earth... Wonder if i did it right?
Oh.. and i run 90%+ straight GMH green concentrate.
#30
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 14 July 2010 - 06:55 PM
If you are finding over 0.3 volts then it will be the result of an electrical fault.
KOOL-IT� Electrolysis Indicator
KOOL-IT� Electrolysis Indicator Instructions
KOOL-IT� Electrolysis Indicator
KOOL-IT� Electrolysis Indicator Instructions
#31
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Posted 14 July 2010 - 07:07 PM
Thanks for that!
I suppose you could do the same with a multimeter?
#32
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 14 July 2010 - 09:01 PM
Yes, the multimeter is better. The KOOL-IT instructions are worth reading.
The KOOL-IT device is just a simplified dedicated device which unfortunately cost more than a cheap multimeter.
The KOOL-IT device is just a simplified dedicated device which unfortunately cost more than a cheap multimeter.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 14 July 2010 - 09:04 PM.
#34
_Road Runner_
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Posted 15 July 2010 - 12:18 PM
No problems with the PWR in my hatch with a mild 350 chev.
#35
_1uzbt1_
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Posted 15 July 2010 - 02:44 PM
The Kool-IT device seams to have quite a high "acceptable level" when it measures stray current.Idealy you dont wont any but i know(and use) Nissan's 0.05 volts at a maximum on aluminium.Some even think 0.02 is the maximum.
BTW
Why cant i edit???
BTW
Why cant i edit???
#36
_Eedman_
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Posted 15 July 2010 - 03:33 PM
The Kool-IT device seams to have quite a high "acceptable level" when it measures stray current.Idealy you dont wont any but i know(and use) Nissan's 0.05 volts at a maximum on aluminium.Some even think 0.02 is the maximum.
BTW
Why cant i edit???
you can only edit within a certain timeframe, once you have left the post a little while, that function dissapears.
#37
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Posted 15 July 2010 - 06:19 PM
Edit is disabled after 5 minutes to stop people changing comments after they hav been made!
Just out of curiosity, why analogue?
Just out of curiosity, why analogue?
#38
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Posted 15 July 2010 - 06:28 PM
i wish i new, thats what all the manuals/instructions say,who am i to argue?Ive asked a few people to tell me why( auto sparkies asd so on)and they carnt tell me either.Maybe it has to do with the fact there is no battery to run the analog one and it uses the powers generated to measure?
i just want to add to previous post instead instead of posting again.
i just want to add to previous post instead instead of posting again.
#39
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Posted 15 July 2010 - 06:46 PM
That's an interesting thought! I never thought of that!
I thought that maybe the analogue was more accurate at those tiny voltages.
Cheers! And thanks!
I thought that maybe the analogue was more accurate at those tiny voltages.
Cheers! And thanks!
#40
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Posted 15 July 2010 - 07:00 PM
A good quality digital multimeter should be more accurate than an analog multimeter as you have eliminated user reading errors.
#41
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Posted 15 July 2010 - 07:22 PM
But they take a bit to process and display the result and often fluctuate a bit?
Just a thought!
Just a thought!
#42
_Brad1979UC_
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Posted 15 July 2010 - 08:03 PM
Some old blokes in the audio biz that come into work reckon they'd never throw out their old analogue meters. You have to be careful of parallax error when reading one but other than that they are really useful over a digital when you want to identify a trend in readings, ie. voltage fluctuation, digital meters have a certain refresh rate so sometimes its harder to see.
#43
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Posted 16 July 2010 - 08:28 PM
^ refresh rate, That's how i was trying to explain it!
Cheers!
Cheers!
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