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Thoughts on Soda Blasting

Started by _napes_au_ , Oct 23 2010 08:49 AM

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28 replies to this topic

#1 _napes_au_

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 08:49 AM

G'day all,

I had intended on having all the removable panels 'Soda Blasted' and to strip the shell by hand. That was until a friend of mine told me that as because the process uses water in will inevitably cause surface rust beneath the paint in a couple of years. :blahblahblah:

Has anyone else heard that? :dontknow:

He's got me worried now!!! :<_<:

Also, I was wondering who here has used it?? Does it remove rust and old bog as well as the paint?? Where you happy/unhappy with the job?? :dontknow:

Any advice would be appreciated...

Cheers,
Napes

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#2 _Kush_

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 09:03 AM

I've never heard of water being used. I think it would dissolve the soda and you'd end up spraying foamy water

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#3 _napes_au_

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 10:09 AM

Does it remove rust and old bog????

Cheers

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#4 _Kush_

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 10:49 AM

Yes it can, depends on how far you want to go with it. It'll just take longer to do. Still gonna have to fix up where the rust was though. Soda blasting can be expensive because is such a gentle process it takes a lot longer to do than sandblasting. You can actually remove individual layers of paint.

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#5 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 04:48 PM

frOck sodablasting, i cannot think of a single reason why you would want to use it.

OK, sure, you can leave your windscreen in and it wont damage the screen or rubbers, but most the rust on old Holdens is around the screens so WHY THE frOck WOULD YOU LEAVE THE SCREEN IN DURING A FULL RESPRAY???

And im assuming that because your talking about taking it right back its a full respray.

Get it sand blasted, cheaper, will remove bog and ALL rust, and it doesnt leave a stupid film.

Where your mate got the idea from is that sodablasting leaves a film that will stop the bare metal from rusting, but if you paint over it the paint will peel strait off. You need to use soapy water to take this film off, then you have soapy water on raw steel, wala, instarust.

Also i have no frOcking idea how you get your soapy water in and out of the small crevices etc.

Now im sure you have heard some horror stories about sand blasting, and yes if done wrong it will totally frOck the car.

Cruise around, get a few quotes, theres usually several sandblasting mobs in any area.

Make sure you talk to the person who will be doing the blasting.

If they dont seem overly intersted, move on, if they go "hey, a Torana, cool" then use that person.

You Have to realize that most of these guys deal with mining companies who pay 10's of thousands of dollars to get stuff done, you rocking up with a little car shell that they will make frOck all out of wont interest most operators, you need to find the one that is into old cars, respects old cars and wants to do the job.

If you give the car to an uninterested party, you will get back a twisted mangled wreck, if you give it to an interested party, then you will get back a car that is totally clean, free from any rust/bog/etc within reason (impossible to blast inside a sill panel for instance, you will have to remove the sills if you want in there done, as an example)

Also, as said, for the same finish soda will be more expensive. So when you find an interested party offer them the same amount as your quote for soda blasting, that should put a smile on there face. Hey, you were gonna spend that much anyway, the extra $$$ will insure they do a micky mouse job.

The surface you will receive is ready for a thorough blow down and then primer, thats it, no frOcking around. Most places will also prime it for you for a small extra cost. Your choice of primer. I'd go a zink phosphate based epoxy personally.

Hope this helps a bit. Oh BTW im a sandblaster/spraypainter working on gear that works in highly corrosive environments and high selenity water, so yeah, i have a rough idea what im ranting about.

Cheers.

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#6 _Kush_

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 08:04 PM

Bomber is spot on. Personally, I would use a wire cup brush on an angle grinder and take the paint off myself. Then take bog out with a hammer/screwdriver or whatever, do the rust repairs and then key the body up with a coarse grit sandpaper ready for priming. If you do it yourself you get self satisfaction and you know it's been done to your standard. It's not as hard as many people think.

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#7 _Kush_

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 08:08 PM

Oh, BTW Bomber, have you been doing that stuff for Abbot point? We built most of that.

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#8 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 08:41 PM

Negatory mate, drill rigs and support vehicles, work for Depco Drilling, the largest personally owned drilling company in Australia.

Cheers.

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#9 _Kush_

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 09:03 PM

Oh yeah, I've heard of the company..... North Queenslands a small place.

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#10 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 09:16 PM

Yeah we do a bit of work up there.

Cheers.

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#11 enderwigginau

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 10:43 PM

You need to use soapy water to take this film off, then you have soapy water on raw steel, wala, instarust.

Also i have no frOcking idea how you get your soapy water in and out of the small crevices etc.

Bullshit. �What sorta cock just wipes/washes it down with water and then DOESN'T continue prep. �Wiping it down with alcohol or other prep wash and then blowing on a sealing coat of prime is mandatory. �Similar to what is needed after using a Molasses bath to strip rust.

As for water in crevices, see alcohol above (and yes Vodka works, just takes longer to evaporate, if that's all you've got lying around).

Soda techs are now accredited, so if you get a dud one, report em and they will suddenly have thousands of dollars of equipment and no-one wanting to pay em to use it!

Grant..

PS. Just make a molasses bath, it works better.

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#12 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 11:01 PM

The soda guys who have visited work looking for work havnt mentioned alcohol to me during the interview (yes, as soon as they show up i get shipped into the conference room to deal with them).

Why go to all that effort and waste all that vodka that could be used getting drunk when sandblasting requires none of it grant :tease:

(joke mate, take it easy)

Cheers.

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#13 Ice

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 11:53 PM

I have had a few parts soda blasted and have had no problem what so ever did have a car sandblasted many years ago never ever again was still vacuuming sand out 2 years later

cheers gene.

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#14 _Quagmire_

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Posted 24 October 2010 - 02:37 AM

some old story
good and bad in every industry
ask around and you will find out who to go to and who to avoid
sand blasting will get all the old bog/rust out but be warned if the operator doesn't do it right then you will have a hell of a lot more problems to fix
soda blasting from what i've heard will not remove the rust and bog so you will have to do it yourself anyway
if you got strong arms and some time then yeah do it with a wire cup and brush just don't leave it in the same spot to long
(they create heat and warp the panels)
a 36/80 grit sandpaper pad on a 9" grinder will do the same job just takes a little longer

Edited by Quagmire, 24 October 2010 - 02:38 AM.

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#15 _Quagmire_

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Posted 24 October 2010 - 02:54 AM

or there's this way
http://www.gmh-toran...=0

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#16 _napes_au_

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Posted 24 October 2010 - 07:16 AM

Cruise around, get a few quotes, theres usually several sandblasting mobs in any area.

That's just the problem.... When you live in a small country community as I do, there is only one Sandblaster within 150 km's. I had them blast a horse float for me last year and they virtually F#@ked it... :furious:

Since then, two Soda blasters have turned up in the area, which in theory sounds good.. More options can only improve the standard of the local industry...

Thanks for all the feedback everyone...

Cheers

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#17 _napes_au_

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Posted 24 October 2010 - 07:27 AM

a 36/80 grit sandpaper pad on a 9" grinder will do the same job just takes a little longer

My plan was just to have the doors, bonnet, boot lid, front guards and the nose cone blasted... (Everything removable) And the rest of the car, I'm going to the old fashioned way, paint stripper follow by a Sh!t load of sanding!!! :spoton:

Good or bad idea??? Any thoughts???? :dontknow:

Cheers

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#18 _Quagmire_

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Posted 24 October 2010 - 12:26 PM

a 36/80 grit sandpaper pad on a 9" grinder will do the same job just takes a little longer

My plan was just to have the doors, bonnet, boot lid, front guards and the nose cone blasted... (Everything removable) And the rest of the car, I'm going to the old fashioned way, paint stripper follow by a Sh!t load of sanding!!!

Good or bad idea??? Any thoughts????

Cheers

i'd be temped to soda blast the removeable panels
as if your right then the local sandblaster could warp them(esp the bonnet)
and if you find any nasties you can fix them yourself with wire wheels etc
there is a thread on paint stripping here somewhere
messy job but

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#19 Redslur

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Posted 24 October 2010 - 05:19 PM

I tend to agree with Grant on this one. I recently had the nose cone on the hatch soda blasted as I didn't want to have to paint strip all the hard to get places. It came up great after it was done. I followed instructions from the fellow who did it and washed the panel down with warm soppy water, dried it off, prepsoled it and then de-oxideined it before etch priming it. No problems at all now after having painted the car! I guess it is all in the right preparation.

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#20 _ChevLX_77_

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Posted 24 October 2010 - 06:52 PM

And the right operator......

Sodablasting is fine.

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#21 _DrFegg_

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Posted 24 October 2010 - 08:14 PM

I believe one issue that can eventuate with soda blasting is that if any of the soda residue lingers e.g might get stuck in the welded seam between two panel, this will react with your paint later on causing blistering. I would be more trusting to use soda blasting on individual bolt on panels, or diffs etc, were you have excellent access to properly clean it.
As for "sand blasting" dont let anyone touch your car with "sand". Most blasters use a plastic grit, its a lot less harsh on your panels, wont warp them and strips a car really well. Yes it does leave a mess but any residue wont react with your paint later on.
Leave the harsher sand for thick gauge steels, diffs, suspensions etc.
As others have said, talk to the user of the stripping product, if they do a lot of car bodies (especially decent ones for restos) they will know what to use and where.

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#22 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 25 October 2010 - 05:56 PM

Yeah i was using incorrect terminology, should have been saying "media blasting"

And yeah that plastic shit is a treat.

Cheers.

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#23 TerrA LX

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Posted 25 October 2010 - 07:37 PM

As for "sand blasting" dont let anyone touch your car with "sand". Most blasters use a plastic grit...

I doubt you will find anyone using "sand" as work-cover outlawed it's use.
"Sand Blasting" is more a tern nowadays rather than the media used which is usually garnet or plastic.

Thing is with sand blasters is that if they are set up for big jobs and big equipment then their process is not suitable for delicate panel work, as ours at work it is hard to even get the pressure low enough to do a panel safely, you have to stand on it to stop it blowing away.

If you don't like finding sand years later then pack rags into the hard to reach areas.

Nothing wrong with sand blasting if used accordingly and done with the correct equipment.

Nothing wrong with soda blasting, if used accordingly and done correctly.

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#24 _Quagmire_

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Posted 25 October 2010 - 07:58 PM

garnet is still sand more glass/quatz if i member what i read
looks the same if it was the shithe i was using
don't some use peanut husks as the media nowdays?
meh like terry said if done correctly either will be good if the operator knows his stuff