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Factory Alignment specs


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#1 Toranamat69

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Posted 04 May 2006 - 08:59 PM

G'day Guys,

getting back into my playing with front ends and steering.

Can anyone help me out with the following:-

1. The factory camber, caster and toe-in for each of the models above?

2.What diameter front tires they had on them

and here is the tricky one

3. The height from the ground to the front subframe on a standard height car?
(I found the height to the centre of the steering rack bolt to be the easiest to measure on mine)

#2 Toranamat69

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Posted 11 May 2006 - 08:23 PM

C'mon guys, no- one has any books with the alignment specs?

I'm doing the hard bit - how about getting those books out and giving me some specs?

M@

I even found the answer to number 2 in another thread last night.

#3 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 12 May 2006 - 11:08 PM

Knew I had them somewhere.

LH alignment settings:

Castor: -1 degree +/- 1 degree
Camber: + 0.25 degree +/- 0.75 degree
Toe: zero +/- 1/8"

L34 alignment settings:

Castor: -0.5 degree +/- 1.5 degree
Camber: -0.25 degree +/- 0.75 degree
Toe: zero +/- 1/8"

A9X alignment settings:

Castor: +1 degree +/- 0.5 degree
Camber: -1 degree +/- 0.5 degree
Toe: 3/16" +/- 1/16"

Couldn't find Pre RTS and post RTS LX, but from memory both are the same as LH.

#4 Toranamat69

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Posted 14 May 2006 - 06:16 PM

Thanks Chopper.

Do you know the UC ones as well??

M@

#5 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 14 May 2006 - 09:05 PM

Not suprising, the UC specs are close to the A9X specs. Just don't have the figures handy. I think the castor was +1.5 degrees +/- 1 degree. It's been 5 years since I last aligned a Torana. And it's probably been 10 years since I bothered to set one to factory specs. I normally set each one individually after talking with the owner.

#6 makka

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Posted 15 May 2006 - 02:39 PM

well Chopper, what would you recommend for a LH running a V8, kingswood stub axles, pedders lowered springs with 195/60/15 tyres?

#7 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 15 May 2006 - 06:50 PM

I probably should've mentioned that the deicision is made after talking to the owner and viewing the current specs. Without knowing what spec you currently run, I would be looking at:

Castor: +0.5
Camber: -1 ( if possible )

Toe-in: 2.5 MM

Due to the HQ stubs and lowered springs, it may not be possible to adjust it up to -1 camber. I have seen vehicles with all shims removed and still having -3 camber. To go from -3 to -1, shims ned to be removed.

#8 makka

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Posted 17 May 2006 - 03:30 PM

cheers Chop, I jusn needed a guide to go by, my front end was in pieces and needs an alignment soon

#9 Dangerous

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Posted 17 May 2006 - 08:17 PM

If you want to believe a Gregory's manual, specs for UC are;

Caster, 1 to 3 degrees positive
camber, -2 to zero
toe in, 0 to 0.95 mm positive

Good work on this Toranamat. I suspect I'll be using your findings at some stage :spoton:

#10 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 17 May 2006 - 09:24 PM

Those are close to the A9X specs. Forget the toe-in figure, all LH - UC Toranas seem to like 2.5 MM toe-in best. This will vary from machine to machine, as they are all calibrated slightly differently. In general, the industry accepts this.

#11 _munro_

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Posted 16 June 2006 - 04:40 PM

If you want to believe a Gregory's manual, specs for UC are;

Caster, 1 to 3 degrees positive
camber, -2 to zero
toe in, 0 to 0.95 mm positive

Good work on this Toranamat. I suspect I'll be using your findings at some stage :spoton:

if you run -2deg camber you will scrub the insides of your tyres
try and get it to -0.5 - -1deg at the most
cheers tom

#12 _Torana482HP_

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Posted 16 June 2006 - 05:45 PM

If your scrubbing the inside of your tyres, your not cornering fast enough, lol. :spoton:




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