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Mezzanine floor


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#1 Bart

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 08:40 AM

Gday all, hope all is ok.
I need some help on building a mezzanine floor in my shed to increase my storage.
Any idea on how to construct a mezzanine? I want to basically make it on the back right hand corner of the garage, I'm having trouble finding a garage company to do it, I assume it�s a too smaller job for them to bother. I'm sick of ringing around and being told, I'll get back to you, and guess what, nobody gets back to me. I was thinking of using C Purlins, also didn�t want to use a post in the middle of the garage to hold up the mezzanine so I guess this means I would have to span a largish C Purlin down the centre of the garage, 5.6m length, from the back upright to the front upright and span smaller C Prulins from that to the right of the garage. Mezzanine should be approx same height as the guttering. Mezzanine floor, 4.2m wide (from centre of garage to right side of garage), X 2.9m deep.
Any ideas on size of Purlins? I was thinking 300-400mm for the Purlin down the centre and 150mm for the purlins to span from the centre to the right of the garage.
The garage is constructed of 150mm C Purlins.
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#2 Swarbs

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 09:27 AM

Have you thought about putting a "dropper" down from the apex of the roof to connect the corner of the mezzanine?
Weld a flat plate to the two uppermost perlins at the apex and come off that or is there a rafter you could come off

Photo of the inside would help
D

#3 orangeLJ

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Posted 25 November 2010 - 10:10 AM

My old man did the above^

Ours is made from mild steel exhaust tube and ply board, but its more a storage shelf than a mezzanine.

The old one at our workshop was made from 2-3mm mild steel RHS uprights and just mild steel braces accross the floor, chipboard floor.

It had literally TONNES of weight on it and never showed any signs of fatigue.

#4 Bart

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Posted 26 November 2010 - 10:21 PM

Its an open span roof so i dont trust the strength of it for a mezzanine, which is why i thought a beam, or purlin down the middlw of the garage (from back to front 5.6 m)with posts on either end so no post in the middle of the floor. From the middle of the beam another purlin/beam to the right side of the garage.
Thought i would do a sketch to better explain
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Back
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Edited by Bart, 26 November 2010 - 10:23 PM.


#5 blown308

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 06:06 AM

anytype of pallet racking.. it is design to hold the weight and you can buy it pretty cheap second hand...

http://industrial.sh...14.l1581&_pgn=2

if you need mesh decks to use as the floor base give me a yell as I have plenty at work we dont use

Edited by blown308, 27 November 2010 - 06:09 AM.


#6 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 09:59 AM

Your heading in the right direction. PM me your sketch if you want, and I'll look up my span tables.....mmmmm, back to my previous life!!!!

Don't suspend anything from the roof framing, as roof loads are dramatically less than floor loads, so you'll just end up collapsing your roof.

Yella's shed has a 3m x 8m mezzanine with a single post, but it is timber framed.

The top of the purlin across the back wall there looks the right height for the floor, slightly lower than the gutters, but will look neater.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 27 November 2010 - 10:05 AM.


#7 _hutch_

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 10:28 AM

I done one in the bosses shed at his home a while ago,his trusses are the same as yours by the looks of them,its is an 8 mtr span so i used 200 X 2.5 purlins front and rear and 150 X 2 between them Just make sure you space the 150 purlins so as ya sheets join on them,the whole thing just bolts to the columns with 4 x 12 mm bolts per column
Its not hard to all you need to do is pair the front and rear 200 mm purlins measure it out and predrill it and then mark one of the 150 purlins and use it as a jig to do the rest use a pilot drill though,as far as the brackets to join the purlins you can buy them or make them yourself.
Providing ya dont store 20 engines up there you wont need a post in the middle,and anything thats gunna mount up in weight IE books put to the sides
Regards Phillip

#8 Bart

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 11:12 AM

Thanks guys this really helpful stuff.
Found some I beams I may use from back to front of the garage rather than a purlin.
I beam measures 205mm high, 130mm wide and 5mm thick

#9 _Baronvonrort_

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 11:37 AM

Its an open span roof so i dont trust the strength of it for a mezzanine, which is why i thought a beam, or purlin down the middlw of the garage (from back to front 5.6 m)with posts on either end so no post in the middle of the floor. From the middle of the beam another purlin/beam to the right side of the garage.
Thought i would do a sketch to better explain
Posted Image
Front
Posted Image
Back
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image


I would not use any existing beams in the garage for a mezzanine as the garage may not be engineered for that and its possible the manufacturer used the smallest beams possible (thin wall) to reduce material costs and increase profit.

If you dont want to put a post in the middle of the span we can work around that i suggest you will need 4 posts which will be loaded in compression we need to know how much weight you intend to put on this mezzanine level so we can calculate a factor of safety and determine a suitable section.

We need the approximate maxumum weight to also calculate what size beam to use.

I would also suggest a tubular post at the front and rig up a davit with a block and tackle to hoist things up and swing them onto the mezzanine level.

I would suggest you redo the drawing with 4 corner posts maybe with braces forming a triangle for posts to beams maybe slightly overestimate the weight of the bits you intend on storing so we can figure out post and beam size.

#10 Bart

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 11:48 AM

Yes i totally agree with everything you said. I have sent some details to Yella, I was thinking of 3mm wall RHS along side of the existing uprights to hold up the mezzanine. And 400mm purlin with 3mm wall along the middle, or an I beam.
The maximum weight would probably be but probably wont see 800-900kg. Now I think that isover stating the weight but better to over than under and wearing the mezanine as a permanent hat.


Its an open span roof so i dont trust the strength of it for a mezzanine, which is why i thought a beam, or purlin down the middlw of the garage (from back to front 5.6 m)with posts on either end so no post in the middle of the floor. From the middle of the beam another purlin/beam to the right side of the garage.
Thought i would do a sketch to better explain
Posted Image
Front
Posted Image
Back
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image


I would not use any existing beams in the garage for a mezzanine as the garage may not be engineered for that and its possible the manufacturer used the smallest beams possible (thin wall) to reduce material costs and increase profit.

If you dont want to put a post in the middle of the span we can work around that i suggest you will need 4 posts which will be loaded in compression we need to know how much weight you intend to put on this mezzanine level so we can calculate a factor of safety and determine a suitable section.

We need the approximate maxumum weight to also calculate what size beam to use.

I would also suggest a tubular post at the front and rig up a davit with a block and tackle to hoist things up and swing them onto the mezzanine level.

I would suggest you redo the drawing with 4 corner posts maybe with braces forming a triangle for posts to beams maybe slightly overestimate the weight of the bits you intend on storing so we can figure out post and beam size.


Edited by Bart, 27 November 2010 - 11:49 AM.


#11 Bart

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 12:31 PM

Revised sketch

Posted Image

#12 _hutch_

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 12:46 PM

Ok heres how mine is done,it sits on the wall purlins has no extra legs and there is a shit load of gear up there lol and its been there for 20 plus years,in my opinion there is ne need to put extra posts to support the floor,the purlin across the ends will act as a bottom cord and tie the tops together as any webbed truss

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#13 Bart

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 01:05 PM

Ok heres how mine is done,it sits on the wall purlins has no extra legs and there is a shit load of gear up there lol and its been there for 20 plus years,in my opinion there is ne need to put extra posts to support the floor,the purlin across the ends will act as a bottom cord and tie the tops together as any webbed truss

looks like hardwood thank goodness. :spoton:
I think the diference here is the load is spread out more even because you got the I beam mounted to the purlin which rests on the wall purlin???

Edited by Bart, 27 November 2010 - 01:08 PM.


#14 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 02:07 PM

Baron is on the right path. Agree with additional posts, it's just better that way. Turn your purlins around so they are spanning 2.9m rather than 4.2m, and run a trimming beam to pick them up. 400mm purlin, that's big.

I'll have a look at the tables and get back to you.

#15 Bart

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Posted 27 November 2010 - 04:22 PM

Baron is on the right path. Agree with additional posts, it's just better that way. Turn your purlins around so they are spanning 2.9m rather than 4.2m, and run a trimming beam to pick them up. 400mm purlin, that's big.

I'll have a look at the tables and get back to you.

Sounds good, 200 RHS instead of purlins, turned the other way so they span 2.9m. :spoton:

#16 _Baronvonrort_

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Posted 28 November 2010 - 11:38 AM

Revised sketch

Posted Image


The 100x100 rhs is it 3mm wall?
I would suggest a flat plate under the section similar thickness to spread load on the floor and maybe add a dynabolt to prevent it sliding on floor
Do you already have these sections and if so how many metres?
I will do some calculations tonight for posts in this size once you confirm whether this is what you already have or considering.

I would extend this 100^mm section about 6 feet above the mezzanine level at one end and put an arm (triangle shaped)that swings out with a block and tackle so you dont have to carry anything up a ladder.

As for the mezzanine floor you could use the 200 purlins if you have them the spacing of these will be determined by maximum weight.

#17 Bart

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Posted 28 November 2010 - 05:45 PM

No I havnt bought any materials yet as I wasnt sure what size to buy.
But yes the plan is 100mm RHS with 3mm wall, a flange plate top and bottom, dyna bolt bottom and normal bolts for the large beam, (I bean or purlin)?

Posted Image


[quote name='Baronvonrort' date='28 November 2010 - 12:38 PM' timestamp='1290908323' post='554906']
[quote name='Bart' date='27 November 2010 - 01:31 PM' timestamp='1290825065' post='554748']
Revised sketch


The 100x100 rhs is it 3mm wall?
I would suggest a flat plate under the section similar thickness to spread load on the floor and maybe add a dynabolt to prevent it sliding on floor
Do you already have these sections and if so how many metres?
I will do some calculations tonight for posts in this size once you confirm whether this is what you already have or considering.

I would extend this 100^mm section about 6 feet above the mezzanine level at one end and put an arm (triangle shaped)that swings out with a block and tackle so you dont have to carry anything up a ladder.

As for the mezzanine floor you could use the 200 purlins if you have them the spacing of these will be determined by maximum weight.
[/quote]

Edited by Bart, 28 November 2010 - 05:46 PM.


#18 Bart

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Posted 28 November 2010 - 06:06 PM

I was thinking I beam for the long span (5.6m) and purlins for the 4 sides of the floor and 200X50 RHS for the floor section, I think Yella suggested something like that actually.
[quote name='Bart' date='28 November 2010 - 06:45 PM' timestamp='1290930345' post='554948']
No I havnt bought any materials yet as I wasnt sure what size to buy.
But yes the plan is 100mm RHS with 3mm wall, a flange plate top and bottom, dyna bolt bottom and normal bolts for the large beam, (I bean or purlin)?

Posted Image


[quote name='Baronvonrort' date='28 November 2010 - 12:38 PM' timestamp='1290908323' post='554906']
[quote name='Bart' date='27 November 2010 - 01:31 PM' timestamp='1290825065' post='554748']
Revised sketch


The 100x100 rhs is it 3mm wall?
I would suggest a flat plate under the section similar thickness to spread load on the floor and maybe add a dynabolt to prevent it sliding on floor
Do you already have these sections and if so how many metres?
I will do some calculations tonight for posts in this size once you confirm whether this is what you already have or considering.

I would extend this 100^mm section about 6 feet above the mezzanine level at one end and put an arm (triangle shaped)that swings out with a block and tackle so you dont have to carry anything up a ladder.

As for the mezzanine floor you could use the 200 purlins if you have them the spacing of these will be determined by maximum weight.
[/quote]
[/quote]

#19 _hutch_

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Posted 28 November 2010 - 08:03 PM

All i can say is i would'nt fly in an aeroplane built by you blokes lol

#20 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 28 November 2010 - 08:58 PM

^ you can come try out the new 800^C diesel fire simulator we are just commissioning if you want?

Email sent, I've solvered it, your first sketch works OK. 200UB or 200PFC for the central beam, although if you want to forego some strength, a 180PFC will work, considering you only have it half loaded. I prefer working with channel (PFC), but you will find that you get more bang for your buck with UB's. C20024 cold formed joists at 600 c/c (keeps it all 200mm deep) and 1200wide 19mm structafloor sheets.

If you can stomach a post in the corner, you could probably frame the whole lot up with C20024 cold formed sections.

Enjoy.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 28 November 2010 - 09:00 PM.


#21 Bart

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Posted 01 December 2010 - 07:55 PM

Just drew up a couple more
Using 310UB or 250UB with 200, 2.4mm purlins, 100X100 RHS 3mm wall posts

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Edited by Bart, 01 December 2010 - 07:58 PM.


#22 yel327

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 06:15 AM

I just used 2 x rows of Dexion pallet racking (in your shed down each side), and ran big C-purlins across a set of heavy duty rails set at the right height, with flooring on top of it. My shed is 6m tall at the peak, so the pallet racking goes right to the roof so I have shelving on both sides below the mezzanine and above it. In your case uprights would stop at the gutter line. You can get shelf rails in various lengths so you get the centre "post" on each side where you want it, or not have shelves in a particular spot where it might interfere with a car door.

#23 _rob350hatch_

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 09:45 AM

i have a shed full of mezzanine floors that i have constructed using various materials and methods .we live on one till the house gets built.none invovled welding .you are more than welcome to come and have a look im not far from you.
rob
ring me if you are interested pm sent.

Edited by rob350hatch, 02 December 2010 - 09:47 AM.


#24 Bart

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Posted 04 December 2010 - 12:22 PM

i have a shed full of mezzanine floors that i have constructed using various materials and methods .we live on one till the house gets built.none invovled welding .you are more than welcome to come and have a look im not far from you.
rob
ring me if you are interested pm sent.

Thanks Rob for that offer, I probably won�t get a chance to come over, wife working and I have to look after the baby. It would be good just to meet you, but if I get a small window of opportunity I will give you a buzz first.
Thanks mate, and thanks to everybody who helped.
I have measured up and visualized the design in my garage yesterday and it seems the 250/310 UB will be a little too low for my liking. So after all that working out (by you good guys) on what size UB to use I may not go that way, although it wont be too different in what im thinking of doing now.
I will probably do away with the 5.6m length UB and just use C purlins and use a post on the corner.

#25 Bart

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Posted 04 December 2010 - 02:06 PM

Posted Image


Thanks Rob for that offer, I probably won�t get a chance to come over, wife working and I have to look after the baby. It would be good just to meet you, but if I get a small window of opportunity I will give you a buzz first.
Thanks mate, and thanks to everybody who helped.
I have measured up and visualized the design in my garage yesterday and it seems the 250/310 UB will be a little too low for my liking. So after all that working out (by you good guys) on what size UB to use I may not go that way, although it wont be too different in what im thinking of doing now.
I will probably do away with the 5.6m length UB and just use C purlins and use a post on the corner.




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