_rob350hatch_
Posted 06 December 2010 - 07:44 PM
Edited by rob350hatch, 06 December 2010 - 07:47 PM.
Shit a brick
Posted 06 December 2010 - 08:52 PM
yes i understand i look after my 4 everyday my wife works fulltime.wheres the serepax lol.i never ever do any drawings for anything i build.i just nut it out in my head and build it from
that and it all just seems to come together nicely.i was very fortunate to have a good teacher in my grandfather who wouldnt let me use a spirit level or a pencil and paper .everything was sighted .he said you have a brain and 2 eyes and 2 hands thats all you need.
if you need any help sing out only to happy to help.
_Yella SLuR_
Posted 06 December 2010 - 09:00 PM
Edited by Yella SLuR, 06 December 2010 - 09:00 PM.
Shit a brick
Posted 06 December 2010 - 09:22 PM
With the post, you can always build in the other side when you run out of space!!! Mind you, I found that at that point you need to fit lights under to get decent light.
5.6m is a pretty hefty span.
Enjoy.
Edited by Bart, 06 December 2010 - 09:25 PM.
Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?
Posted 30 December 2013 - 02:38 PM
Thread from the dead
My turn now
New shed is up and I want a free standing Mez
7m x 5m
Who wants to guide me thru what materials to use and a floorplan of the structure
Cheaply of course
And the least welding the better
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 30 December 2013 - 02:47 PM
As above, I need one. Please enlighten us.
Cheers.
_76lxJAS_
Posted 30 December 2013 - 07:25 PM
if you can get hold of roof perlins same as in your shed. they will make a good base.
25mm or larger chipboard etc would be fine for the flooring.
uprights could be anything from 100mmx100mmx3mm box section to the uprights that are in your shed,
just vision your shed roof smaller,flat and on 4 legs..
also space your perlins around 250mm to 400mm max apart.
to span 5x7mt you will need 3 trusses or even some large H section 7mt long at @2.5mt apart
6 legs holding these up. then the purlins on top. hope this makes sence.
this is only 1 of many ways
its really endless how this could be done.
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Edited by 76lxJAS, 30 December 2013 - 07:27 PM.
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 30 December 2013 - 08:04 PM
Currently i wanna span about 3x3.5....Would i need trusses or would just perlings do? Use yellowtongue as the flooring?
Cheers.
Shit a brick
Posted 30 December 2013 - 09:19 PM
I think it was Yella SLR who helped with design of my mez (I haven't built it yet) as he was an architect and can work out loads and stuff. Very important.
Shit a brick
Posted 30 December 2013 - 09:22 PM
Shed perlins are usually too thin depending spans and stuff but they normally use the thinnest as they don't have to carry loads like a mez.
Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?
Posted 30 December 2013 - 09:43 PM
I was thinking along the lines of this pic
http://www.gmh-toran...attach_id=37044
But wasn't sure how far to space the beams apart and what size material to use
I'll be parking 3 cars underneath it so position of legs is a factor
Shit a brick
Posted 30 December 2013 - 09:51 PM
I was thinking along the lines of this pic
http://www.gmh-toran...attach_id=37044
But wasn't sure how far to space the beams apart and what size material to use
I'll be parking 3 cars underneath it so position of legs is a factor
Edited by Bart, 30 December 2013 - 09:50 PM.
_76lxJAS_
Posted 30 December 2013 - 10:34 PM
Currently i wanna span about 3x3.5....Would i need trusses or would just perlings do? Use yellowtongue as the flooring?
Cheers.
for a smallish 3x3.5 i would say purlins are good. ive seen many floors done with them no hassles at all.
the thicker the better and the closer you space them the better also. yellow tough would be fine.
i only used 20mm laminated 2nds from the factory near bye years ago. $10 for a 3mtx1.8mt board, wasnt fussed about the joints. just put to purlins closer together at your joins.
i wouldnt use the purlins for the main support front center and rear.
the 150x40x4MM? same as the upright in most kit sheds are good the front/rear/center supports. if you can get on to a heap of the upright materiel they would be good for legs also.
if you have a wood frame truss style shed not wanting large open areas to access you can do like this pic.
but this is all welding no bolts except for the screw holding the boards down.
if you are storing hugh amounts of weight you may want to use 150x35mm hard wood insted of the purlins at 300mm apart .demolition places are good for cheaper good seasoned timbers from old houses.
i see floors like carports just with there purlins closer together, boards insted of tin, and level.
weather it be steel or timber. legs can be round, square or trusses also
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_76lxJAS_
Posted 30 December 2013 - 11:23 PM
I was thinking along the lines of this pic
http://www.gmh-toran...attach_id=37044
But wasn't sure how far to space the beams apart and what size material to use
I'll be parking 3 cars underneath it so position of legs is a factor
7x5 is a big area to span.
id be looking at trying to get hold of a heap of shed upright materiel to span the 5mt @ 4 points where the legs are @ 2.33mt apart. beams could then be purlins or timbers as your would be running them across the 4 frames at 300mm apart.
100mmx100mmx5mm legs @ 2.3mt apart with a flat plate on the bottom if you want to bolt it down.
any 20mm + chipboard,yellow tongue.laminated board would be fine to screw down as a floor.
hope this makes sense.
if you want this drawn up let me know. shouldnt take to long
few more pics for ideas
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