Rear Windscreen installation
#1
Posted 28 December 2010 - 12:17 AM
#2 _nial8r_
Posted 28 December 2010 - 06:54 AM
#3 _LH SLR 3300_
Posted 28 December 2010 - 09:13 AM
#4
Posted 28 December 2010 - 10:54 AM
yeah mate a good bead around the appiture before fitting the glass and rubber is alright as it will give a nice seal, just dont go over board with the sh*t as you dont want it coming out past the rubber and on to the paint cause its a real bitch to clean up
Hey nial8r
HQ- WB Holdens don't have a windscreen rubber.
Cheers
Dave
#5
Posted 28 December 2010 - 11:11 AM
I was told by a windscreen fitter not to use Sikaflex or urethane adhesives but to use the original type sealer kits that had the thin wire running through the sealer bead that when heated with a 12V power source actually bonds the glass to the car body. Just what i remember being told so it might be wise to confirm with another glass fitter.
^^^ What he said.
Sikaflex 227 will take around 24 hours maybe a bit more to fully cure before you can use the car. The professional windscreen installers are using a product that only takes about 1 or 2 hours to fully cure (I don't know what it is though) so might be best to do a bit more checking around before fitting the screen on Sikaflex 227.
Cheers
Dave
#6 _nial8r_
Posted 28 December 2010 - 11:22 AM
yeah mate a good bead around the appiture before fitting the glass and rubber is alright as it will give a nice seal, just dont go over board with the sh*t as you dont want it coming out past the rubber and on to the paint cause its a real bitch to clean up
Hey nial8r
HQ- WB Holdens don't have a windscreen rubber.
Cheers
Dave
So are they fitted like you would fit up a newer car screen ? like VL front & VN front and rears and so on ?
do they just have locking tabs for the Chrome surrounds ??
#7 _LH SLR 3300_
Posted 28 December 2010 - 11:53 AM
#8 _nial8r_
Posted 29 December 2010 - 06:55 AM
#9
Posted 29 December 2010 - 01:01 PM
thanks for the info Matt, i guess you do learn something new every day
Thanks for that information everyone,the car wont be being used for awhile after ,so curing wont be a problem,but i woulld still like to find out if i could use this without any disastrous results apart from the fact the other original has the wire and the 12v charge put through it.there is also the cost factor ,they would have to come to me unless i trailered it to them.So i gather the original method would seal better?Anyone ever used the sikaflex 227 before for this ?interested to hear ,regards Paul.
Edited by Indy Orange, 29 December 2010 - 01:02 PM.
#10
Posted 29 December 2010 - 07:51 PM
thanks for the info Matt, i guess you do learn something new every day
Thanks for that information everyone,the car wont be being used for awhile after ,so curing wont be a problem,but i woulld still like to find out if i could use this without any disastrous results apart from the fact the other original has the wire and the 12v charge put through it.there is also the cost factor ,they would have to come to me unless i trailered it to them.So i gather the original method would seal better?Anyone ever used the sikaflex 227 before for this ?interested to hear ,regards Paul.
Anyone?
#11 _nial8r_
Posted 29 December 2010 - 07:52 PM
#12
Posted 29 December 2010 - 09:17 PM
i dont see why it wouldnt work. they use the same stuff on the newer cars and they seal up in a couple of hours
Me niether nial8r,i,ll think i,ll go with that ,chheers mate.
#13 _Quagmire_
Posted 29 December 2010 - 11:39 PM
i dont see why it wouldnt work. they use the same stuff on the newer cars and they seal up in a couple of hours
Me niether nial8r,i,ll think i,ll go with that ,chheers mate.
used it
my experience with it is not to
every time i do it the car leaks
and it's a bitch to clean up too
not sure if i did it wrong but yeah i'd pay the extra for the 12v kits
#14
Posted 30 December 2010 - 01:21 AM
i dont see why it wouldnt work. they use the same stuff on the newer cars and they seal up in a couple of hours
Me niether nial8r,i,ll think i,ll go with that ,chheers mate.
used it
my experience with it is not to
every time i do it the car leaks
and it's a bitch to clean up too
not sure if i did it wrong but yeah i'd pay the extra for the 12v kits
Hmmm,ok,well i definately dont want it to leak.
#15 _nial8r_
Posted 30 December 2010 - 06:45 AM
#16
Posted 30 December 2010 - 09:52 AM
I was told by a windscreen fitter not to use Sikaflex or urethane adhesives but to use the original type sealer kits that had the thin wire running through the sealer bead that when heated with a 12V power source actually bonds the glass to the car body. Just what i remember being told so it might be wise to confirm with another glass fitter.
^^^ What he said.
Sikaflex 227 will take around 24 hours maybe a bit more to fully cure before you can use the car. The professional windscreen installers are using a product that only takes about 1 or 2 hours to fully cure (I don't know what it is though) so might be best to do a bit more checking around before fitting the screen on Sikaflex 227.
Cheers
Dave
The manufacturer states that Sikaflex 227 has a curing rate of approx 24hrs for every 3mm of bead thickness. So a typical bead thickness of 6mm to fit a HQ-WB screen is going to take approx 48hrs to cure.
Earlier this year we had a new front screen fitted to the VS. I had said to the wife that she probably won't be able to use the car for approx 24hrs until the sealant cures. I was wrong, the windscreen fitter told her the sealant will be fully cured in 1hr.
So I believe the professionals must be using a product that is way better than Sikaflex 227.
#17 _LH SLR 3300_
Posted 30 December 2010 - 10:04 AM
#18
Posted 30 December 2010 - 05:26 PM
Well i stand corrected. After speaking with a windscreen fitter mate, he informed me that Sikaflex is actually better to use as it bonds stronger than the original sealer. The original kits were good for the day but advances in technology mean Sikaflex is better. We didn't discuss what Sikaflex to use but i think an activater is used to aid in curing it. Cut a "V" into the end of the nozzle so when you apply the bead it stands tall but not to wide. This way when you lay the glass down it is less likely to spread out too far & create a mess plus you'll get an even bead all around to seal/adhere the glass better. Use small pieces of rubber to keep the glass from sliding down too far at the base. Sit the stainless trims on temporarily to assist in positioning the glass & once you're satisfied with the glass fitment, use 2" masking tape to hold the glass in position. I'm not a windscreen fitter but working in a smash repair shop i've watched proffesional windscreen fitters do it & i've used this method to fit tailgate & side glass windows myself with no problems.
#19
Posted 30 December 2010 - 05:31 PM
#20 _LH SLR 3300_
Posted 30 December 2010 - 05:48 PM
#21
Posted 30 December 2010 - 09:36 PM
No probs, yeah around a pencil thickness & around 3/4" or so tall even bead should be OK. Don't apply too much pressure if any at all, generally the weight of the glass is enough to seat it properly. Use just enough pressure to make the glass sit evenly in the aperture. Trial fitment of the stainless moulds should give you an indication if it's sitting correctly. Too much pressure & the Sikaflex will spread out everywhere & once you release pressure the glass can "spring" up enough to break the seal in places & cause poor bonding & water leaks. I think you should be OK as it's the rear screen you're fitting, personally i would only trust a professional to fit a front one.
Just the rear one ,i only had to pull that one because it had a touch of rust in the lower corner.Thanks for all your help ,i,ll let you know how it all went.Paul
#22 _nial8r_
Posted 31 December 2010 - 07:10 AM
#23
Posted 31 December 2010 - 08:34 PM
some good info there Matt, i swear your brain is chock a block full of knowledge hey Paul post some pic's of your job if you get a chance so we can see how it comes up !!
I started to take some pics but the camera went dead ,i had to clean up around the ledge where the window sits ,i used a small wire wheel on a drill to clean up all the loose paint and surface rust and then i primed.I also cleaned up the rear screen ,it had an old rear venetian ,you know the black plastic honeycombe ones ,so the stuck on attachments were quite hard to remove .I.ll take some pics when i can cheers Paul.
#24
Posted 31 December 2010 - 08:34 PM
some good info there Matt, i swear your brain is chock a block full of knowledge hey Paul post some pic's of your job if you get a chance so we can see how it comes up !!
I started to take some pics but the camera went dead ,i had to clean up around the ledge where the window sits ,i used a small wire wheel on a drill to clean up all the loose paint and surface rust and then i primed.I also cleaned up the rear screen ,it had an old rear venetian ,you know the black plastic honeycombe ones ,so the stuck on attachments were quite hard to remove .I.ll take some pics when i can cheers Paul.
#25
Posted 31 December 2010 - 08:40 PM
file:///C:/Users/User/Pictures/DSCF4044.JPG
file:///C:/Users/User/Pictures/DSCF4046.JPG
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