Hey guys, im sure you have all heard of it and seen the current ads getting around... just wondering if this is for real or bs, do all oils do the same thing? or is it really a special one and I should consider switching?
Castrol Magnatec
Started by
_Viper_
, Jan 03 2011 09:36 PM
63 replies to this topic
#2
dattoman
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Posted 04 January 2011 - 01:07 AM
oils aint oils Sol
What are you using.. and what do you expect from your oil
How often do you change it
What are you using.. and what do you expect from your oil
How often do you change it
#3
_Quagmire_
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Posted 04 January 2011 - 02:27 AM
i have heard bad things about "megentic"
personaly i wouldn't use it
but many others do and will
personaly i wouldn't use it
but many others do and will
#4
TerrA LX
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Posted 04 January 2011 - 05:17 AM
Overseas, in America for example, Castrol are banned from using the wording "magnatec" on their product and in their advertising...
Things to consider, if oil clung it would create drag...
If oil hung on and did not drain away how does it cool and clean?
Things to consider, if oil clung it would create drag...
If oil hung on and did not drain away how does it cool and clean?
#5
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Posted 04 January 2011 - 10:29 AM
I use penrite atm, I just liked the idea of the engine having oil protection on start up, but sounds like its bogus
#6
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Posted 04 January 2011 - 01:06 PM
A few of the guys on LS1 forum found Magnatec good for minimising the early LS1 cold start issues.
#7
_Quagmire_
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Posted 04 January 2011 - 02:43 PM
I use penrite atm, I just liked the idea of the engine having oil protection on start up, but sounds like its bogus
there is always a little oil left at start up
and you can buy oil stabilizers like lucas if you want more protection
i heard they do away with the detergents in magnatec so it leaves a depoist and gunks up your oil galleries
that's the main reason i wou't use it
#8
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Posted 04 January 2011 - 05:06 PM
I use penrite atm, I just liked the idea of the engine having oil protection on start up, but sounds like its bogus
there is always a little oil left at start up
and you can buy oil stabilizers like lucas if you want more protection
i heard they do away with the detergents in magnatec so it leaves a depoist and gunks up your oil galleries
that's the main reason i wou't use it
Sounds like a myth about the detergents and blocked galleries.
#9
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Posted 04 January 2011 - 05:08 PM
A few of the guys on LS1 forum found Magnatec good for minimising the early LS1 cold start issues.
Do they have any evidence that it actually does provide added cold start protection, I would be of the idea that although magnatec does have added cling when cold I imagine it would drain just like any other oil when hot...
#10
mr5000
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Posted 04 January 2011 - 05:46 PM
we used to use magnatec at mitsubishi from my experience it went ok late model cars under 60 thousand from then on would just smoke and carry on personally i wouldnt touch it
#11
View GaragePosted 04 January 2011 - 05:48 PM
Didn't think you could buy Magnatec in heavy enough viscosity for a Holden six or V8...?
#12
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 04 January 2011 - 07:13 PM
What i find funny is how they go on about it magnetically clinging to the engine components, and show a visualization of a piston....
Pistons are Aluminum....Therefore Nonferrous....Therefore they are wankers.
I use whatever oil Autobarn has on special. Replace every 5000 on the average vehicles more frequently on the ones i tend to get throttle heavy with.
Cheers.
Pistons are Aluminum....Therefore Nonferrous....Therefore they are wankers.
I use whatever oil Autobarn has on special. Replace every 5000 on the average vehicles more frequently on the ones i tend to get throttle heavy with.
Cheers.
Edited by Bomber Watson, 04 January 2011 - 07:14 PM.
#13
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Posted 04 January 2011 - 11:46 PM
Castrol theres the problem already theres better oils on the market do your homework i prefer shells range of oils but thats just me stick with what you know.
#14
REDA9X
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 08:10 AM
Unfortunately, the best oils available have been dropped and Castrol put on the shelves in their place.
I always used BP oils, and I know a few people who also believed it was the best on the market. My A9X used BP Course 50 all it's life. The cam was replaced in 1984. I removed the cam in 2003. The cam and most of the other components in the engine showed no signs of wear at all, in fact, I didn't even need to get the block bored at all, it was given a hone, which it barely needed. I do think the fact the oil was also changed on a regular basis also helped. Personally I think magnetec would drag every small particle of metal through your engine if it really "clings to metal" like they say.
I always used BP oils, and I know a few people who also believed it was the best on the market. My A9X used BP Course 50 all it's life. The cam was replaced in 1984. I removed the cam in 2003. The cam and most of the other components in the engine showed no signs of wear at all, in fact, I didn't even need to get the block bored at all, it was given a hone, which it barely needed. I do think the fact the oil was also changed on a regular basis also helped. Personally I think magnetec would drag every small particle of metal through your engine if it really "clings to metal" like they say.
#15
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 11:42 AM
Ahhh the good ole oil topic ! Its probably number one in posts made on forums all over. I just wish an independant company would take different engines from all walks of life and dyno test them along with and end particle test to show us what the black and white results really are. Years ago in my early V8 Torries n Commodores i used to run BP Course Plus and after buying into the HSV scene in the early oo's searched the world for an oil than hushed the engine up and gave maximum protection. Lets face it we cant go off what the ad says about the oil. I have tried without a lie probably 90% of the oils on the market in my engines regardless of costs. To date have found that Royal Purple in my LS1 is the best for me. Saying that i would love to run it in my SLR but i guess its to thin. So my search starts again to find the best oil for my 'old school' engine. Like i said i have tried all oils and Nulon was one of em. After seeing a dodgy YouTube ad trying to tell everyone that it outpreforms on the dyno all other oils for HP increase and in the vid it clearly shows the fan sitting way back whilst testing other oils and it hard on the car whilst testing the Nulon i gave that one up for a joke. Sooooooo where do we stand ? What oil do we use? Grab a cuppa do a forum search n start ya reading !! 
#16
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 12:14 PM
They way modern engine oils are going, thinner, less zinc etc etc, we maybe better looking in the direction of correct weight diesel oil... well not for the high end racers but for the street stockers atleast...
#17
_Quagmire_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 01:26 PM
I use penrite atm, I just liked the idea of the engine having oil protection on start up, but sounds like its bogus
if your having no problems with penrite stick with them
they are a brand known for quality and i have had no problems when i did use it
but as for dailys i'm with bomber
"whatever's on speeechial and suits whatever needs it at the time" at auto pro/malz/supa snots
besides thier only fraurds
#18
Posted 05 January 2011 - 01:47 PM
Yep, good stuff for the ol' 202we maybe better looking in the direction of correct weight diesel oil... well not for the high end racers but for the street stockers atleast...
#19
_vin150cars_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 01:55 PM
they use castrol magnatec sae 5w-30
in all ve commodore's
in all ve commodore's
#20
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 05:42 PM
RX Super is a 20w 50 diesel oil. Would likely work well in a freshly rebuilt stock to mild Holden six/v8.
Reason i say freshly rebuilt is diesel oils have a lot more detergents in them, and if you stick it in an old engine it will pull all the carbon off, good, but likely put the carbon somewhere you dont want it, bad.
Im running just either GTX 20w 50 or Classic 20w 50 in both the grenaide (202) and the boat (308) atm, both show good oil pressure and seem to be happy. Purchase either one when autobarn has it for $12 a bottle, get three bottles at a time. Also running it in my V6 commy daily and dad has started using it in his Jeep...
As above we just change it frequently.
Considering we have a fleet of four cars (that are running) a boat and a bike between the two of us ya gotta cut costs somewhere lol.
As far as an actual hot motor goes i'll do some better research, Viper you still havnt really mentioned what this is for???
Cheers.
Reason i say freshly rebuilt is diesel oils have a lot more detergents in them, and if you stick it in an old engine it will pull all the carbon off, good, but likely put the carbon somewhere you dont want it, bad.
Im running just either GTX 20w 50 or Classic 20w 50 in both the grenaide (202) and the boat (308) atm, both show good oil pressure and seem to be happy. Purchase either one when autobarn has it for $12 a bottle, get three bottles at a time. Also running it in my V6 commy daily and dad has started using it in his Jeep...
As above we just change it frequently.
Considering we have a fleet of four cars (that are running) a boat and a bike between the two of us ya gotta cut costs somewhere lol.
As far as an actual hot motor goes i'll do some better research, Viper you still havnt really mentioned what this is for???
Cheers.
#21
REDA9X
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 07:31 PM
Ahhh the good ole oil topic ! Its probably number one in posts made on forums all over. I just wish an independant company would take different engines from all walks of life and dyno test them along with and end particle test to show us what the black and white results really are. Years ago in my early V8 Torries n Commodores i used to run BP Course Plus and after buying into the HSV scene in the early oo's searched the world for an oil than hushed the engine up and gave maximum protection. Lets face it we cant go off what the ad says about the oil. I have tried without a lie probably 90% of the oils on the market in my engines regardless of costs. To date have found that Royal Purple in my LS1 is the best for me. Saying that i would love to run it in my SLR but i guess its to thin. So my search starts again to find the best oil for my 'old school' engine. Like i said i have tried all oils and Nulon was one of em. After seeing a dodgy YouTube ad trying to tell everyone that it outpreforms on the dyno all other oils for HP increase and in the vid it clearly shows the fan sitting way back whilst testing other oils and it hard on the car whilst testing the Nulon i gave that one up for a joke. Sooooooo where do we stand ? What oil do we use? Grab a cuppa do a forum search n start ya reading !!
Ed Brodie has done dyno testing on oils and the Royal Purple added something like 14 HP to the engine performance, don't quote me on the exact figure but it was more. The next best was Penzoil, but the American version, which is apparently not that easy to get here.
I read a magazine report on a variety of well known oils of various prices and the best performance and value wise was a version of Valvolene. The best overall was Royal Purple, mind you at what, $90 a litre? It would want to be good.
#22
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 07:37 PM
Isnt Royal Purple reusable though???
For some reason im under the impression you can filter it and re use it.
Cheers.
For some reason im under the impression you can filter it and re use it.
Cheers.
#24
_Viper_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 08:34 PM
Oh well my gemi/rodeo motor does have a knock when you very first start it in the morning but we have put it down to just being a old worn motor and takes a second to take of the clearance in the bearings, then I saw the magnatec ad and thought hmm maybe that would be a nice band-aid fix untill the new engine is fitted.
#25
_Quagmire_
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 09:02 PM
just go a thicker oil then
should band aid it for a little bit
should band aid it for a little bit
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