Probably more like piston slap?
I wouldn't want magnets rattling around in my sump.
Castrol Magnatec
Started by
_Viper_
, Jan 03 2011 09:36 PM
63 replies to this topic
#26
rodomo
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 09:19 PM
#27
dattoman
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 09:35 PM
Stick with the Penrite
But if its the turbo motor... don't go running too thick or you will run into other problems
HPR15 should do ya
But if its the turbo motor... don't go running too thick or you will run into other problems
HPR15 should do ya
#28
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 10:45 PM
There was ALOT of VS's spinning bearings after using Magnatec. Usually a main cap bearing.
Only VS's and only Magnatec?
Enough that I'll never use it and it's too thin for my 'well-worn' engines anyway. I use Penrite 50- decent price at Sprints.
Only VS's and only Magnatec?
Enough that I'll never use it and it's too thin for my 'well-worn' engines anyway. I use Penrite 50- decent price at Sprints.
#29
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 11:05 PM
There was ALOT of VS's spinning bearings after using Magnatec. Usually a main cap bearing.
Only VS's and only Magnatec?
Enough that I'll never use it and it's too thin for my 'well-worn' engines anyway. I use Penrite 50- decent price at Sprints.
The VS series 2 had a lot of issues with the V6 due to things like pourus sumps and other issues.
#30
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Posted 05 January 2011 - 11:40 PM
And Magnatec was 'blamed' for bearing failures.
May have had nothing to do with it but it's turned me off it.
May have had nothing to do with it but it's turned me off it.
#31
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Posted 06 January 2011 - 10:15 PM
my friend has an account with bursons with his mechanical business,he also gets a good discount.bursons stock redline oils i would like to give that a go.has anyone use redline oils.thanks jason.
#32
Posted 07 January 2011 - 05:12 AM
Redline is great stuff for the gearbox and diff, can't afford to try anything else
#33
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Posted 07 January 2011 - 09:50 AM
I'll never use Redline in a tight LSD 9" again
#35
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Posted 07 January 2011 - 12:36 PM
I think the magnetec people find baby oil is the best for friction.
magnetic properties on aluminium....hmmm dont thinks so.
magnetic properties on aluminium....hmmm dont thinks so.
#36
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Posted 07 January 2011 - 04:10 PM
Viper does the Gemini have a Repco oil filter? They're the first thing I'd look for when a motor rattles when starting from cold.
#38
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Posted 07 January 2011 - 06:15 PM
Nah Ryco
I'd try a genuine filter . Ryco used to claim to have an anti drain back valve but not all did (maybe different now but) thus very little oil in the galleries at start up.
Was common in my early days when complaining about rattly start ups on my 6's & 8's with a Ryco in place that my mechanic mates would say "piss that ryco shit off & put a Holden filter on!"
90% of the time they were bloody right.
As for Magnatec, i have only ever bought it once about 2 months ago to put in the ex's old Hyundai i'm stuck with, it's done 320000 k's, it did about 70000 k's without an oil change (before i met her) so it gets the "what ever is on special" treatment. Same for filters. Basically don't give a shit!
I also try to do oil changes at the 5000 k mark.
The Torana only gets Penrite HPR 30 (RB30ET) AC Delco filters
The ute HJ 253 gets Pennsoil or Penrite, Holden filters
V6 Triton 4X4 , use's oil abit so it gets Hyundai treatment but with the thickest shit on the shelf (30-70 so far) & has slowed usage greatly
#39
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Posted 08 January 2011 - 09:44 PM
If magnatec was that good, it wouldn't be a cheap oil, simple.
#40
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Posted 09 January 2011 - 07:15 AM
I'm with you REDA9X 
#41
_LH8VD69_
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Posted 10 January 2011 - 03:34 AM
Ahhh the good ole oil topic ! Its probably number one in posts made on forums all over. I just wish an independant company would take different engines from all walks of life and dyno test them along with and end particle test to show us what the black and white results really are. Years ago in my early V8 Torries n Commodores i used to run BP Course Plus and after buying into the HSV scene in the early oo's searched the world for an oil than hushed the engine up and gave maximum protection. Lets face it we cant go off what the ad says about the oil. I have tried without a lie probably 90% of the oils on the market in my engines regardless of costs. To date have found that Royal Purple in my LS1 is the best for me. Saying that i would love to run it in my SLR but i guess its to thin. So my search starts again to find the best oil for my 'old school' engine. Like i said i have tried all oils and Nulon was one of em. After seeing a dodgy YouTube ad trying to tell everyone that it outpreforms on the dyno all other oils for HP increase and in the vid it clearly shows the fan sitting way back whilst testing other oils and it hard on the car whilst testing the Nulon i gave that one up for a joke. Sooooooo where do we stand ? What oil do we use? Grab a cuppa do a forum search n start ya reading !!
Ed Brodie has done dyno testing on oils and the Royal Purple added something like 14 HP to the engine performance, don't quote me on the exact figure but it was more. The next best was Penzoil, but the American version, which is apparently not that easy to get here.
I read a magazine report on a variety of well known oils of various prices and the best performance and value wise was a version of Valvolene. The best overall was Royal Purple, mind you at what, $90 a litre? It would want to be good.
Yeah ive heard the same thing about Royal Purple n the extra power increase alledged but im in it for the maximum protection as my clubbie likes to visit the 7k+ rpm often. I think i pay about $120 for 5 litres so i have to buy 2 as my LS1 holds just over 6 but after 5k i drop it for another dose n i only need to buy 1 five litre botttle. In saying that i only do bout 5 k a year max in it. As for price ect i will pay whatever it takes to protect my investments. i quiet like the 'Drift" oil filters as well with their magnets inside to catch the nasties. So in short ive found my puuuurfect LS1 oil , just looking for the best oil for me ole 'new' 5 litre
#42
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Posted 11 January 2011 - 04:27 PM
What i find funny is how they go on about it magnetically clinging to the engine components, and show a visualization of a piston....
Pistons are Aluminum....Therefore Nonferrous....Therefore they are wankers.
I use whatever oil Autobarn has on special. Replace every 5000 on the average vehicles more frequently on the ones i tend to get throttle heavy with.
Cheers.
#43
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Posted 11 January 2011 - 04:32 PM
Piston rings and bores are ferric,isnt that what matters?
never used it,can you actuallt move the stuff around with amagnet?
never used it,can you actuallt move the stuff around with amagnet?
#44
TerrA LX
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Posted 11 January 2011 - 06:20 PM
Piston rings and bores are ferric,isnt that what matters?
That statement defeats the purpose, if it stuck it would not be removed by the oil ring and would get burnt on the power stroke.
#45
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 11 January 2011 - 06:44 PM
Magnatec is just a marketing term it has nothing to do with magnets or magnetic attraction.
Castrol claim that the oil clings at a molecular level to engine parts rather than draining away once the engine is switched off. The theory is that if the parts are coated in oil when the engine is started wear will be reduced.
Castrol Magnatec Story
Castrol claim that the oil clings at a molecular level to engine parts rather than draining away once the engine is switched off. The theory is that if the parts are coated in oil when the engine is started wear will be reduced.
Castrol Magnatec Story
#46
_HRV74_
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Posted 11 January 2011 - 07:58 PM
Stick with the Penrite
But if its the turbo motor... don't go running too thick or you will run into other problems
HPR15 should do ya
Sounds like good advice. Or, if you're really keen you could go for Penrite Sin 5, which is their Premium Full Synthetic oil in 5W/60 weight. Comes with a higher price tag though, about $75 for 5 litres.
Cheers
H
#47
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Posted 12 January 2011 - 01:36 PM
ta, makes sense,yet frpm the responses here clearly many are of the idea that it has mgntic properties,castrol needs to work on this asmany perceivr it to be a bad thing by circulating fine metal partclles in tje oilMagnatec is just a marketing term it has nothing to do with magnets or magnetic attraction.
Castrol claim that the oil clings at a molecular level to engine parts rather than draining away once the engine is switched off. The theory is that if the parts are coated in oil when the engine is started wear will be reduced.
i
Castrol Magnatec Story
#48
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Posted 12 January 2011 - 03:32 PM
I can understand the concept that Castrol is trying to make and I would suggest that any oil would remain on components for a period of time where the car is started and driven at least once a day. The problem I see is with our cars that get started and driven either on some weekends, monthly or on special events. In this case I would suggest that any oil will over time make its way into the sump.
An old mechanic once told me that the grater portion of engine wear occurs at start up and when an engine is used on short travel. The example he would give was taxis engines would travel 4 or 5 times further than a family car before requiring the same engine rebuild. This was due to the fact that the taxis were on the road for longer periods of time each day.
His recommendation was (and I have always followed) to use the correct grade of oil as specified by the manufacturer and change more often than manufactures� recommendations. An oil change is the cheapest method of protection and prevention of engine wear and damage.
Back to protecting our engine components with an oil or a coating of some sort on our cars (the non daily types), is there anything that will give us the same protection that Castrol�s concept is suggesting. Now that would be great stuff.
An old mechanic once told me that the grater portion of engine wear occurs at start up and when an engine is used on short travel. The example he would give was taxis engines would travel 4 or 5 times further than a family car before requiring the same engine rebuild. This was due to the fact that the taxis were on the road for longer periods of time each day.
His recommendation was (and I have always followed) to use the correct grade of oil as specified by the manufacturer and change more often than manufactures� recommendations. An oil change is the cheapest method of protection and prevention of engine wear and damage.
Back to protecting our engine components with an oil or a coating of some sort on our cars (the non daily types), is there anything that will give us the same protection that Castrol�s concept is suggesting. Now that would be great stuff.
#49
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Posted 12 January 2011 - 04:13 PM
I've just developed my own Magaspack OIL ...... too eazy;
I get multy grade oil from the local supermarket, only comes in 4Lts but at $12.50 each , cheap - ( I just shop lift 2 container at a time ( that's the only hard part ))
Then I grind up some old magnets from old alternators add it to the oil - THAT's IT. eazy.......
I'll let you how well it performs in my freshly built 355 , 650 HP V6, @ $10000 for the engine built up , I'm not just going to use any OIL !
Hmmm , fridge magnet, they could work.
I get multy grade oil from the local supermarket, only comes in 4Lts but at $12.50 each , cheap - ( I just shop lift 2 container at a time ( that's the only hard part ))
Then I grind up some old magnets from old alternators add it to the oil - THAT's IT. eazy.......
I'll let you how well it performs in my freshly built 355 , 650 HP V6, @ $10000 for the engine built up , I'm not just going to use any OIL !
Hmmm , fridge magnet, they could work.
#50
rodomo
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Posted 12 January 2011 - 04:35 PM
You're an ideas man mate!
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