Howdy - I am in the process of swapping my M20 for a Supra box behind a 202 in a LH.
What is the best gearshift location on the Supra box that matches up with the existing hole in the trans tunnel?
Is it true that a LC/LJ tailshaft is the right length for this conversion (any alternatives, better)?
What is the best diff ratio to run with this setup? I'm considering 3.08.
Is a hydraulic clutch conversion a good idea? currently mechanical
Thanks in advance
Max
Sydney
Supra conversion questions
Started by
_Toran the Carbarian_
, May 09 2006 04:49 PM
7 replies to this topic
#2
_big chris_
_big chris_
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Posted 12 May 2006 - 12:09 AM
Hi Max,
am in the process of converting an LX from a 253 and auto to Supra,
Have not fitted it up yet,
but here is what I have found out so far,
Shift position, there are 4,
http://www4.tpgi.com.../gearboxes.html
Have a look at photo #6.
Have been told that all should line up with the hole in the Torana floor,
as it is quite big, but I guess one of the 2 centre shift positons would be better,
Have you got a bellhousing and the associated parts yet?
For the clutch setup,
the mechanical or hydraulic use the same throwout arm on the bellhousing,
CRS throwout arm mechanical - hydraulic, push type ($65)
cable type throwout arm, pull type ($154)
plus the cable mounting bracket ($38.50)
To convert to hydraulic, Kit ($300)
if you are satisified with the mechanical could stay with it, save a bit of cash.
I used CRS as an example because I have a CRS kit for my conversion.
Drive shaft,
I will be using a converted slip yoke,
attaches to the Torana universal joint,
Length of drive shaft, not sure yet,
Last conversion I did was a HG Monaro,
used the drive shaft I took out of the auto that was already in the car.
Worked fine, the converted bellhousing set it all at the right length.
Diff centre,
Monaro conversion used a 3.08,
got off the line fine was running a 253 red motor.
Ran at approx 2300 rpm at 100kph in 5th gear.
Have a 3.08 to use on this conversion, the LX has a 2.78 atm,
give it a go, but might be too tall, will see.
The main concerns,
if it is too tall,
having to slip the clutch to get off the line,
too short,
have to change out off first at low speed.
Do you have the toyota gearbox?
Which model number?
Can help in deciding the diff ratio that may suit.
http://www.oldholden...eed_gear_ratios
Have a look at the ratios listed for each type.
Am planning to post pics when it goes in and specs on all parts used.
Cheers
Chris.
am in the process of converting an LX from a 253 and auto to Supra,
Have not fitted it up yet,
but here is what I have found out so far,
Shift position, there are 4,
http://www4.tpgi.com.../gearboxes.html
Have a look at photo #6.
Have been told that all should line up with the hole in the Torana floor,
as it is quite big, but I guess one of the 2 centre shift positons would be better,
Have you got a bellhousing and the associated parts yet?
For the clutch setup,
the mechanical or hydraulic use the same throwout arm on the bellhousing,
CRS throwout arm mechanical - hydraulic, push type ($65)
cable type throwout arm, pull type ($154)
plus the cable mounting bracket ($38.50)
To convert to hydraulic, Kit ($300)
if you are satisified with the mechanical could stay with it, save a bit of cash.
I used CRS as an example because I have a CRS kit for my conversion.
Drive shaft,
I will be using a converted slip yoke,
attaches to the Torana universal joint,
Length of drive shaft, not sure yet,
Last conversion I did was a HG Monaro,
used the drive shaft I took out of the auto that was already in the car.
Worked fine, the converted bellhousing set it all at the right length.
Diff centre,
Monaro conversion used a 3.08,
got off the line fine was running a 253 red motor.
Ran at approx 2300 rpm at 100kph in 5th gear.
Have a 3.08 to use on this conversion, the LX has a 2.78 atm,
give it a go, but might be too tall, will see.
The main concerns,
if it is too tall,
having to slip the clutch to get off the line,
too short,
have to change out off first at low speed.
Do you have the toyota gearbox?
Which model number?
Can help in deciding the diff ratio that may suit.
http://www.oldholden...eed_gear_ratios
Have a look at the ratios listed for each type.
Am planning to post pics when it goes in and specs on all parts used.
Cheers
Chris.
#3
smeer
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Posted 12 May 2006 - 12:19 AM
damn chris. Nice information there. You should write an article when you finish your converstion 
#4
_Toran the Carbarian_
_Toran the Carbarian_
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Posted 12 May 2006 - 01:32 PM
Wow Chris - Thanks heaps for this info - It helps clear up a few issues. I assume the box that I have is the common W55 out of a Celica. I am currently running a 2.78 diff with an m20 behind a warmish 202 (weber + extractors). This set up is fine on the freeway but a shocker in the city and at lights, esp uphills with the wonderful LH handbrake arrangement. I have also run a 3.55 diff which gave great take off but the poor ol red sucked fuel and spewed oil on the freeway. I am upgrading to Supra to get the best of both worlds (hopefully). I have not bought a bellhousing and xmember yet but I have asked Dellow for prices. I am going with Dellow because they are just down the road and I reckon I will save on freight. The current gearstick position is the 2nd closest to the front (18") so from what you say it might slot through OK. I might stick with the mechanical clutch setup also. I just thought that the hydraulic might be a bit lighter (for the wife). I got the clutch plate from a mob called Velcro or something. They were selling them on ebay esp. for the supra - 202 setup.
Thanks again and I will post the quote I get from Dellow for anyone interested
Thanks again and I will post the quote I get from Dellow for anyone interested
#5
_70rey_
_70rey_
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Posted 12 May 2006 - 09:40 PM
yeah thanks im thinkin of doin the same thing
#6
_big chris_
_big chris_
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Posted 17 May 2006 - 10:52 PM
Hey Toran,
Bit of a wild difference in the diff ratios,
have you tried either a
3.08 to 1 or
3.36 to 1.
Like I said will be running a 3.08, see how it goes.
Try ebay a conversion kit as well as the clutch,
have seen 6 cylinder setups, bellhousing, flywheel pressure plate, gearbox, shifter,etc sell for quite reasonable prices,
I got my CRS kit off ebay, for well below the RRP.
Please post the quote, I have a couple of quotes I was sent for V8 conversions,
if anyone is interested I will post the prices.
Cheers
Chris.
Bit of a wild difference in the diff ratios,
have you tried either a
3.08 to 1 or
3.36 to 1.
Like I said will be running a 3.08, see how it goes.
Try ebay a conversion kit as well as the clutch,
have seen 6 cylinder setups, bellhousing, flywheel pressure plate, gearbox, shifter,etc sell for quite reasonable prices,
I got my CRS kit off ebay, for well below the RRP.
Please post the quote, I have a couple of quotes I was sent for V8 conversions,
if anyone is interested I will post the prices.
Cheers
Chris.
#7
_Toran the Carbarian_
_Toran the Carbarian_
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Posted 19 May 2006 - 12:04 PM
I just got prices from Dellow. The whole Kit which includes everything except gearbox and tailshaft is $900+GST. Individually
Bellhousing $350+GST
X member $95+GST
Output yoke $125+GST
The kit is meant to be cheaper all up and includes clutch & Thrust plates, speedo cable, dustcover, throw out fork etc. It seems a lot since I picked up the box off ebay for $250
Iwas thinking of a 3.08 diff but the 3.26 sounds interesting
Cheers Max
Bellhousing $350+GST
X member $95+GST
Output yoke $125+GST
The kit is meant to be cheaper all up and includes clutch & Thrust plates, speedo cable, dustcover, throw out fork etc. It seems a lot since I picked up the box off ebay for $250
Iwas thinking of a 3.08 diff but the 3.26 sounds interesting
Cheers Max
#8
_The String_
_The String_
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Posted 21 May 2006 - 06:07 PM
guys, I had a W57 in a 308 commodore about 8 years ago, and I think the ratios are the same as the W55.
I was very disappointed with the 5th gear, the overdrive is only about 0.85, so drops your revs by 15% from 4th gear. Changing from 4th to 5th, you almost seem to be doing the same revs!
The gearbox was pretty strong(only blew it once!) but dont expect to have a vast improvement for highway cruising.
The SS commodore I got next had a T5 and the overdrive in 5th was 0.75, or 25% less revs from 4th. This is about the minimum I expect now from a 5 speed.
Don't get me wrong, the supra boxes are good, but you mentioned getting the best of both worlds with a 3.55 ratio, and I dont think you will be as satisifed as you think you will be.
I realise you are using a worked 6 and not an 8, but I just thought I'd give you something to consider before you rip out the M20.
String
I was very disappointed with the 5th gear, the overdrive is only about 0.85, so drops your revs by 15% from 4th gear. Changing from 4th to 5th, you almost seem to be doing the same revs!
The gearbox was pretty strong(only blew it once!) but dont expect to have a vast improvement for highway cruising.
The SS commodore I got next had a T5 and the overdrive in 5th was 0.75, or 25% less revs from 4th. This is about the minimum I expect now from a 5 speed.
Don't get me wrong, the supra boxes are good, but you mentioned getting the best of both worlds with a 3.55 ratio, and I dont think you will be as satisifed as you think you will be.
I realise you are using a worked 6 and not an 8, but I just thought I'd give you something to consider before you rip out the M20.
String
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