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hydraulic clutch


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#1 _Hamster_

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Posted 01 February 2011 - 03:07 PM

dunno what section this goes in so i figured i would put here


Anyways I have a 202 with a reco m20 that i will be putting back in my car eventually (possibly might get a 186).

I need to know everything that i need for a hyrdraulic clutch, where to get it and possibly how to set it up. (never done it before)

thanks.

#2 _CraigA_

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Posted 01 February 2011 - 03:31 PM

Here's a kit

http://www.rodshop.com.au/clutchkits/index.htm

LC-LJ TORANA - 6CYL APPLICATION


CK05B
HYDRAULIC CLUTCH KIT - WITHOUT CYLINDERS
$295

Kit includes

SLAVE CLYINDER BRACKET
ROSE JOINT
HYDRAULIC PUSH ROD BRACKET
ADJUSTABLE PUSH ROD
ADJUSTABLE PUSH ROD NUT
5/16" UNF LOCKNUT
FIREWALL BRACKET
HYDRAULIC LINE
SPRING
BRASS FITTING
COPPER WASHER
FIREWALL PUSHROD

36 PIECE NUT. BOLT + WASHER SET

CK05A
HYDRAULIC CLUTCH KIT - WITH CYLINDERS

$475

Includes all of the above plus

MASTER CYLINDER
SLAVE CLINDER

#3 _JBM_

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Posted 01 February 2011 - 05:03 PM

What about a hydraulic throw out bearing, no slave cylinders, no brackets?

#4 76lxhatch

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Posted 01 February 2011 - 07:31 PM

The hydraulic thrust bearing is a slave cylinder :P

Works good though, I had a Tilton one on an M20 behind a V8 with a Dellow master cylinder setup, excellent pedal feel and lovely to use. Good when space is tight around where the fork normally sticks out. Only thing is they don't make anything that bolts straight on, have to make something or modify a universal one.

#5 Steve TPF

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Posted 01 February 2011 - 08:10 PM

These guys sell a hydraulic clutch kit for $180, though you will have to make your own brackets. Depending on your budget it might be worth a look.

#6 _JBM_

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Posted 01 February 2011 - 08:41 PM

Works good though, I had a Tilton one on an M20 behind a V8 with a Dellow master cylinder setup, excellent pedal feel and lovely to use. Good when space is tight around where the fork normally sticks out. Only thing is they don't make anything that bolts straight on, have to make something or modify a universal one.

I wanted to put one in C'dore track car cos I didnt want to frig around with cables or slave cylinders and associated bracketry. What part did you need to modify?

#7 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 01 February 2011 - 09:14 PM

The hydraulic thrust bearing is a slave cylinder :P

I don't think so, slave cylinder still drives a clutch lever, hydraulic thrust bearing does not need a lever. Check out Quartermain.

#8 _JBM_

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Posted 01 February 2011 - 09:28 PM

These guys sell a hydraulic clutch kit for $180, though you will have to make your own brackets. Depending on your budget it might be worth a look.


That likes like it is Dattoman's site, he's a bit of a brake guru.

#9 76lxhatch

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Posted 01 February 2011 - 10:15 PM

I wanted to put one in C'dore track car cos I didnt want to frig around with cables or slave cylinders and associated bracketry. What part did you need to modify?

The hydraulic thrust bearing itself, there isn't (or at least wasn't) one that fits an Aussie four speed directly. The universal ones have four legs which sit against the front of the box and you cut them to length. I used a Muncie one which came with a bearing retainer, and bolted it to the original 4 speed retainer with suitable spacers.


The hydraulic thrust bearing is a slave cylinder :P

I don't think so, slave cylinder still drives a clutch lever, hydraulic thrust bearing does not need a lever. Check out Quartermain.

Eh? The lever has nothing to do with the hydraulics, a slave cylinder is a hydraulic cylinder which is actuated by the hydraulic pressure created with the master cylinder. Its just a different shape to the ones you'd use with a fork.

These guys sell a hydraulic clutch kit for $180, though you will have to make your own brackets. Depending on your budget it might be worth a look.

Cheap! You won't get near a hydraulic thrust bearing for that money.

#10 StephenSLR

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 08:34 AM

Is there a 'sticky' for hydraulic clutch set ups?

Anyway, my question is regarding the PBR slave cylinders, I've read here there are two versions of different diameter you can use with the CRS/Dellows set ups.

Does anyone have details/part numbers for these?

I suspect I have the smaller one and would like to upgrade to the larger one to make it easier on my left hip joint.

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 20 February 2011 - 08:34 AM.


#11 dattoman

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 01:59 PM

A larger one won't throw as far
So if you run out of travel you'll have to go back to the smaller one or change the system to a better setup

Any numbers cast on your cylinder ?

#12 rexy

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 02:08 PM

I changed from the small diameter to the large diameter slave in the LX a few years ago. Its a CRS holden V8 setup. It made a power of difference with a much lighter pedal and more than enough throw for everything to work properly. From memory the bore diameters were 27 and 30 mm respectively.
No more sore left knee!

#13 StephenSLR

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 03:07 PM

Any numbers cast on your cylinder?


I can't get under the car enough to see it.

The part no. for the seal inside is P4390 (I have a spare), the thing is when I had the Supra gearbox put in the guy replaced the slave cylinder and I suspect it was like for like.

s

#14 dattoman

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 05:16 PM

1 3/16
So you already have ther larger one

#15 StephenSLR

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 05:40 PM

1 3/16
So you already have ther larger one


Damn, I was hoping I could get the pedal somewhat lighter.

s

#16 rodomo

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 05:51 PM

Next option is smaller master.

#17 dattoman

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 09:06 PM

True but if it has the stupid 1" unit on it then the only option is to sleeve it down and make a new piston to suit

Do-able... have done it before (but I don't work there anymore)
And pricey

Might be easier to modify the pedal for a better ratio

#18 rodomo

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 09:44 PM

I was thinking something more like this? They come on different sizes from memory? Might have to alter the pushrod though.

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#19 dattoman

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 10:46 PM

And the mounting
And the hose
And theres no way it will throw far enough without reducing the slave cylinder size alot

#20 rodomo

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 11:11 PM

Yep, you're probably right. To be honest I reckon the whole conversion is crap.
I'd rather a full cable conversion any day. It only takes 5 mins to change a cable.

#21 dattoman

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Posted 20 February 2011 - 11:18 PM

Agreed
Toranas never has and never should have had dodgy fluid conversions

However the Japs got it right
5/8 master and 3/4 slave gives a nice ratio
Sadly all that was available to the Aussie market at the time was Holdens good old 1" master carried over from EH-HG and corresponding slave usually in 1 1/16 or 1 3/16"
Hence why Dellow etc used them
And never progressed beyond it

#22 StephenSLR

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Posted 21 February 2011 - 06:19 AM

I'd rather a full cable conversion any day. It only takes 5 mins to change a cable.


My cables would last 2 weeks and took a little more than 5 mins to change.

Shelling out $50 per fortnight for a cable was not an option I wanted back in the 80's and I didn't want the inconvenience of breaking down in random situations and having to turn up to my next destination sweaty with greasy hands.

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 21 February 2011 - 06:20 AM.


#23 Toranamat69

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Posted 21 February 2011 - 12:43 PM

My cables would last 2 weeks and took a little more than 5 mins to change.

Shelling out $50 per fortnight for a cable was not an option I wanted back in the 80's and I didn't want the inconvenience of breaking down in random situations and having to turn up to my next destination sweaty with greasy hands.


I'm with you on this one mate. Wish I had a dollar for everyone who raved about how good cables were, who then put a decent clutch in their car and then came back tail between their legs telling me how crap cable setups are.

Good on 1.6L pulsars maybe - big 6cylinder and V8 clutches - no thanks.

Those who have diven real performance cars with manuals will know.

Always keen to see a better hydaulic setups deveoped for the Toranas though as the Dellow ones are a compromise at best.

#24 dattoman

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Posted 21 February 2011 - 12:51 PM

Its not the cable at fault
Its the pisspoor setup
If it pulled straight and didn't have friction points and unnecessarily heavy clutch plates they would work forever

Hydraulics are the way forward.... if set up properly.... however the old Holden setup was old tech and rarely set right
I've heard more stories about leaking slaves that push at stupid angles, pistons popping right out of slaves and master cylinder issues than I have heard of snapped cables

#25 StephenSLR

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Posted 21 February 2011 - 12:53 PM

Always keen to see a better hydaulic setups deveoped for the Toranas though as the Dellow ones are a compromise at best.


The problem has been around for so long you'd think someone would've come up with a better setup by now but I guess the Dellow one works so nobody has bothered.

Still not happy with the angle of the reservoir.

s




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