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Torana hatch in California...


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#726 Statler

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 02:18 PM

What an excellent idea! :)



#727 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 02:23 PM

Yep, really neat work!!



#728 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 03:56 PM

Little bit of an update....decided I would finally add a parking brake to the car. Come across some little calipers that looked the part so picked up a pair. They are from Wilwood..and after a little mock up the cable should be able to run in a perfect spot and bracket should be pretty straight forward I reckon..going to work on them tomorrow.

They are pretty small, and the pads are not too large, but I think it will be enough since I don't normally park on 45 degree hills or anything. :D

hi jeff them little suckers are the go,just askin im runnin floatin hubs and me disc is only like a cm thick,wondering if ya can get thiicker pads for em

what did they set ya back bud

 

Maz



#729 Toranamat69

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 04:36 PM

I saw these a while ago and was looking for them everywhere and couldn't find them again.

 

Thanks Jeff, now I have the brand and part number.  I'll have to add them to the next summit order.

 

Matt



#730 _LXSS350_

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Posted 19 December 2013 - 06:08 PM

It depends a lot on your disc thickness. Some of them are made for quite thin discs even if you shave the pads right down.

 

I used these at  $170ea

 

Parking%20Brake5.jpg

 

Parking%20Brake2.jpg

Mechanical Caliper can be configured for rotors width from .375" to 1.375". The caliper weight is only 2 pounds, and the size is 3.50" (w) x 2.75" (h) x 4.50" (d), and are anodized to give them a long lasting finish.

 

http://www.ipsco.org...rking Brake.htm


Edited by LXSS350, 19 December 2013 - 06:10 PM.


#731 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 01:44 AM

I saw these a while ago and was looking for them everywhere and couldn't find them again.
 
Thanks Jeff, now I have the brand and part number.  I'll have to add them to the next summit order.
 
Matt

That is why I was sure to get the part number of one of them at least in the picture :spoton: There is a left and right part though keep in mind..

Oh, and I got mine here..

http://www.ebay.com/...2bedd3d&vxp=mtr

:)

#732 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 01:48 AM

Forgot to add...I normally get stuff from Summit too, but a buddy had owned me some money he had in his paypal account, so was just as easy to have him order them for me off ebay, ha ha.

Aside from those others above, maybe check on Wilwood's site to see if they do a narrow version as well ? These just bare fit over my disc as it is, if the pad was any thicker I wouldn't get them over.

And the mounting bolt hole threads are 3/8-24 by the way, if you can guess your length you can order up some quality bolts at the same time. :D (ARP for me as mentioned)

#733 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 01:58 PM

thanks guys,i was the same as you toranamat69 seen em then lost them,my rotor is 7 to 8mm  in thickness , not thick   . 375''  would be 7- 8mm ,

 

rotors diameter is roughly 10.275 inches.,yours look the go LXSS350,

 

thanks jeff for putting yours mate up as i would still be looking for them

 

 

Maz



#734 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 21 December 2013 - 01:48 PM

No problem, hopefully you can sort out a pair for yourself too!

 

My rear rotors are 330mm, and right on the width limit for the little calipers, but they seemed to fit well in the end.

 

 

In looking for cables, searches seem to only come up with Lokar and their unversal kits, but they don't have one with an actual end that fits these calipers the way I would like to see it...not a lot of other options it doesn't look like, but still doing some looking around....hmmmm...



#735 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 21 December 2013 - 02:33 PM

thought the old cable would work and just change the ball size but looking at pic theres another arm that the outside cover to cable must sit in which must have a flange to stop all the cable moving.is that what that is,maybe cable guy can help lol



#736 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 21 December 2013 - 02:50 PM

lol... The Lokar ones have a little billet aluminum adjuster part that screws into the main arm, and has a really small ball end, that you need another adapter thing on to work on the moving arm. I rather have a factory style barrel end on the cable though (or what ever they are actually called?)

I did come across (on google) a place that does do some types of custom cables not all too far away, so might even check with them.

I do have a pretty much straight shot forward along the lower control arm and to the factory little bracket that held the original cable on the body...so I can most likely copy the original routing if I want. Have to have another look under the car though and work that part out too, ha ha

#737 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 10:11 AM

I ended up with some Lokar cables...the numbers Wilwood reckons, and of course they don't exactly fit like they should...what is new it seems..

 

Got things modified though and they should do the trick though.

 

As well, I did want to go with the factory parking brake, but it's just a hair tight for the cable to get up to it now with how I built the headers, where the trans sits, etc. (I could probably sneak it through perhaps...) but decided to go with a hand pull type parking brake instead. I actually used a handle I had laying around from a VH/VJ Charger. I modified the mounting bracket, etc and should work out well I think. I did not mount it on the outside where it is in the Chargers, because that was always a pain in my old one getting in and out over it, if it was on. (Not that I really need to use it a lot, but still...) and with the Procar seats I have there was actually decent room for the handbrake lever between the seat and console.

 

Pictures to come...just finished painting the new mounting brackets and they need a bit to dry.  Still will need to cut the cables to length and run them through the floor still.



#738 _LCOOLJ_

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Posted 27 December 2013 - 07:33 PM

Seen a few hot rod guys running a disc off the diff pinion with a small caliper.,, just food for thought.

#739 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 28 December 2013 - 02:42 AM

Not really a fan of the disc on the pinion..prefer to do it this way, basically same ways many of the OEM's do it, so figure it shouldo the trick. Probably won't use it all too often, but handy to have now and then at least.

#740 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 28 December 2013 - 06:53 AM

Not too shabby so far I reckon..

 

I had to re-angle the handle's mounting plate, and then built a spacer to bring it away from the floor about an 1", along with having a mount for the cables as well.  Did need to drill a couple holes in the floor for the cables though.  I will use some 3M strip caulk to seal up around them though, should do the job.

Oh, and made the stud that attaches to the original hole in the park brake handle and screws into the brass block that came with the lokar cables.

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#741 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 28 December 2013 - 06:58 AM

And... used a rubber grommet in the original cable bracket near the body lower control arm mount..

 

I still want to tie the cables to the lower control arm as well now..keep it from being lose.  Easy way would be to just run a cable tie through one of the original sway bar holes and tie the cable to it, but wouldn't mind doing something a little nicer looking...just have to have a think/design something perhaps. Hmmmm..

 

(sorry pics are a little blurry, lol)

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#742 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 28 December 2013 - 09:15 AM

Really nice work :)



#743 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 28 December 2013 - 09:28 AM

Thanks :)

 

 

Just need to give the carpet a vacuum and put the seat back in now...oh, and might as well pull the old under dash pedal out while there is room without the seat as well.

 

Then just go for a drive again :D



#744 SmacT

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Posted 28 December 2013 - 09:59 AM

Nice as usual Jeff. 3M Strip Caulk isn't easily available over here, it seems, but I have it on the shopping list! That said my local Repco and AutoPro didn't even have efi hose clamps in stock last week (teenage chick tried to sell me perforated clamps instead, saying "they'll be right"), so I don't expect much. 



#745 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 28 December 2013 - 10:44 AM

I've got the 3M strip caulk here "in stock"....heck, I even have EFI hose clamps here, and never used them, lol..

 

(I recently picked up a huge box of brand new stainless steel hose clamps in a heap of different sizes made for silicone hoses,etc so they don't have the teeth slots in them either... from around 5/8" up to about 3" or so. :) )



#746 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 28 December 2013 - 12:49 PM

great work jeff     :spoton: ,park caliper looks pretty snazzy on there,good lookin lokar cables too,gee have they got any laws over there,would not get away with no handrake here,too tight , mmm,might have to move where its fun

 

 

  cheers maz



#747 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 28 December 2013 - 12:55 PM

No laws what so ever basically....aside from needing lights and what not, ha ha.  No need for heater, even wipers you could get away without if you didn't drive in the wet.  Any engine, blowers , no brake rules, etc, etc.  (I knew somene ages ago with a T-bucket street rod with only rear brakes..and another guy who had one with front calipers but no pads in them and no lines going to them)

 

As nice as it is to be able to build what ever you want...does make for some scary stuff out on the roads!  (some of the rat rods getting around are downright scarey!)



#748 _LXSS350_

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Posted 28 December 2013 - 01:02 PM

Came out well.

You will loose nearly 1/2kg without the std park brake pedal. ..... LOL



#749 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 28 December 2013 - 01:06 PM

It did make a good conversation piece....when people would look inside the car (to see the steering wheel on the "wrong" side, a few would question about the 4 pedals...ha ha

#750 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 29 December 2013 - 10:46 AM

Got the parking brake light switch on too...used the original Charger one on it, and ran a new wire up to the Torana loom for it (Used the original yellow color of course, makes it easy to track things in the future)

Then also got the 4th pedal out of the way too...cleans it up a little bit to me at least.  (I like most of the original looking things about the dash, but the "other" pedal sort of in the middle of things never really grabbed me,lol)

 

And only skinned my thumb in two places working under the dash getting the mechanism out..

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