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Front brakes dragging WB caliper

Started by _GTRXU1Rooster_ , Mar 10 2011 09:22 PM

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65 replies to this topic

#51 rodomo

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Posted 07 June 2011 - 09:16 PM

When the brake is jammed on, undo the bleeder nipple, if it releases, that means its a hydraulic problem.
If it doesn't release, I'd take another .5mm off the pads.
Good luck!

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#52 _GTRXU1Rooster_

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 07:40 AM

yeah when you crack the bleed nipple, only the fluid that is sitting above the nipple dribbles out that is it, and the brakes remain jammed on

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#53 76lxhatch

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 07:48 AM

This is just spitballing but if the caliper is jamming when mounted by the slides, and it keeps happening on the same side, perhaps your stub axle is damaged/bent around the caliper mounting area and its mounting just crooked enough that you can't see it but it causes things to twist?

edit: or the stub itself so the disc/hub isn't straight...?

Edited by 76lxhatch, 08 June 2011 - 07:49 AM.

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#54 _GTRXU1Rooster_

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 07:59 AM

yeah I have been thinking that exact same thing too, the only thing wrong with the idea I have come up with is that when I took it to the brake specialists up here it was only the caliper and slide, the stub axle was not there, they just used brand new pads that they had there and then for a rotor chucked in a piece of box pipe and then hooked the hose on and tested it and they jammed up, so they were jamming when on the bench, I thought that maybe they didnt have anything to keep the piston square even? I thought that if the stub was bent then maybe coming in at a wrong angle to the rotor (or if low and behold the rotor wasnt square) iand pressure applied then maybe cocking the piston to one side perhaps? running out of ideas but.....

3 calipers, with 3 different slides, new pistons, old pistons,

Gonna get a set of a mates car today, after i have tested them on his car, then fit them onto my car and see what happens then..... that should be the big indicator then I think

Clay

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#55 dattoman

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 10:04 AM

So is it the piston sticking... or do you have a slide issue ?

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#56 _GTRXU1Rooster_

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 11:25 AM

I am running double thick pins instead of the 1 thick and 1 thin with the rubber over the top to quiet it down. they are nicely greased up and have tried 3 different slides as well, I think its the piston but not sure, I will be putting a working pair on today some time so hopefully that will tell me something new

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#57 76lxhatch

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 02:07 PM

yeah I have been thinking that exact same thing too, the only thing wrong with the idea I have come up with is that when I took it to the brake specialists up here it was only the caliper and slide, the stub axle was not there, they just used brand new pads that they had there and then for a rotor chucked in a piece of box pipe and then hooked the hose on and tested it and they jammed up, so they were jamming when on the bench

My thought was that you are damaging the caliper slides and/or piston by using them on an oddball angle while bolted up to a bent stub, then the caliper is permanently damaged and won't operate anywhere (extremely long shot I know). Perhaps bench test the new caliper prior to fitting?

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#58 _GTRXU1Rooster_

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 09:33 PM

Today when I was testing out the calipers again, I noticed that the caliper instead of sliding evenly the caliper was pivoting from the bottom slide post.

any ideas what could make the caliper pivot rather than slide on both? bent stub axle? or rotor not square? any ideas?

Clay

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#59 dattoman

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 10:17 PM

Holes in the bracket too much bigger than slide pins

wobble wobble

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#60 _GTRXU1Rooster_

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Posted 09 June 2011 - 08:39 AM

Well even the missus is pissed with my brakes now, shes sick of me having the shits on with the car, so she has told me to UPGRADE to something that works, "Go get the Hoppers Kit" she tells me...... She is sick of me spending coin on it and it not working, spend it properly, go big straight up.
Starting to think that its time to piss them off completely.

After spending more than i should have on the current set up, and still not working I am interested in changing to an upgrade that is going to work. Looked at the Hoppers Stoppers 290 kit however from what I can see they wont work with the 15" weld wheels. Does anyone know of an upgrade simular to the Hoppers Stoppers kit where these will fit? I dont want to change my wheels.

After rebuilding the booster, master and going thru 3 sets of calipers, 2 sets of brake hoses, I just want something that will work first time!

I would like to get a twin piston setup preferably but what have other people done and works?

Clay

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#61 _GTRXU1Rooster_

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 08:48 AM

well I havent been able to come up with another solution so far, the hoppers kit would be awesome but I love the look of the car with the Weld Wheels on it. So it looks like back to trying to find what is wrong with the HQ - WB set up.

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#62 _Quagmire_

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 11:47 AM

http://www.ebay.com....=item1c1c2c1684
try these guys

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#63 _GTRXU1Rooster_

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Posted 10 June 2011 - 05:03 PM

http://www.ebay.com....=item1c1c2c1684
try these guys

well I emailed them and they havent really told me if they will fit inside the rim or not..... so I will ask again.

Next I went and got a new stub axle, and guess what???? it is still doing it, only on the 1 side, and I have changed the stub and the calipers..... kinda outta ideas now

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#64 _GTRXU1Rooster_

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Posted 24 June 2011 - 07:31 AM

well got a pair of HQ calipers, full rebuild and pistons etc, chucked them all in and bam, they work, got brakes again.

all I can think of is that 1 set of the WB calipers, the piston was cocking off to the side when it was coming out, and the other set was pivoting on one of the pins. now everything is sorted, as far as I can tell.

Cheers for everyones help

Clay